I wanted to close out this thread (pun intended) since I found the problem. On the third attempt for the cross wraps, I switched to Fuji thread. Bingo. Problem solved. I applied the color preservative (ChromaSeal) and the wrap behaved like it should. NO stretching at all! Lesson learned. Brian
Forum: rodboard

Thanks for the advice. I'm about to have a third go at it today. I think what I'll do, based on your suggestion, is to tack down the centers before I do the trim bands. Also, I failed to mention that I never worked this brand of blank before. It's from a supplier that I'd not dealt with in the past. After I remove the old wrap, I'll scuff up the blank to see if it will hold more tension for t
Forum: rodboard

At my wits end. I've been building rods for 15 years at a count of around 40 and I've never had this happen. After finishing the decorative butt wrap with double diamond cross wraps (a staple in my bag), I applied a coat of color preservative as usual. After about about 5 minutes the threads softened up and lifted right off the blank, completely ruining the cross wrap. I used the same color p
Forum: rodboard

As usual on this forum, lot's of great tips. I had to "do an audible" last night as this is a Christmas gift for my daughter who lives in Seattle (and I'm in Michigan). She's wanted a Tenkara rod for the past several years. I finally found a place that sold Tenkara blanks, but the one I wanted (12', 6:4) was back-ordered and I received it late so I had to hustle on the build. I wan
Forum: rodboard

I watched a video on a technique used to wood burn an image on to cork. The means used was to print a black image of the desired figure (mirror imaged) and transfer it to the cork before doing the wood burning with a soldering iron. The guy in the video used "methylated spirits" to soak the image on paper after taping it to the cork handle. So far I have tried the following: Isopr
Forum: rodboard

Just wanted to let anyone reading this that I was able to reverse the pulley and chuck. I had a machinist do the work and it turned out great. He fabricated a jig and used a puller to remove the pulley. Am happy as clam with the new wrapping chuck.
Forum: rodboard

Thanks for the very helpful tips. Yes, the chuck came right off the shaft with no problem. I've had the bench setup for over 15 years and I always wrapped with the motor on the right. It runs counter clockwise if you are looking at it from the rod's perspective. (Ditto on the thread feeding over the top of the rod.) I've gotten used to this and I wanted to keep the same configuration with
Forum: rodboard

I just purchased a new Pac Bay Aluminum chuck assembly after basically wearing out the old black plastic/metal one. After receiving the new chuck yesterday, I noticed that it is set up for a base that has the motor/frame assembly to the left. Unfortunately, the way my bench is set up, I needed the motor/frame on the right end of the base. (It has to do with the type of bench that I have and the
Forum: rodboard

Guys, Thanks for all of the great tips. I had not realized that the Alconite guides had stainless steel frames. The waxing comments are new to me also. Great info. What about Kigan? I see that St Croix is using them on their inshore S/W rods now. Thanks Again, Brian
Forum: rodboard

Does anyone have first hand knowledge on the use of Fuji Concept Alconite guides for saltwater applications? How well are they holding up to corrosion? I build mostly freshwater rods, but have been asked by a customer to build up an inshore saltwater rod for bonefish, permit. Cost is an issue to him so I'm thinking of staying away from SiC or Zirconia and stainless or titanium. Thanks for a
Forum: rodboard