I sometimes run 1, others times 2. Often times depends on the customer, some cant get past the cone or their desired asthetics. 3 total sizes is more than adequate including the stripper. Other may or may not disagree.
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Even Tom Morgan recommended no larger than 1's on a 7wt, 1/0's on 6 wts
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#1 or 1/0 Snake Brand guides will be more than adequate as running guides on that build
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It might be oak, but a very good possibility that it is also Ash(Think baseball bat) and I have seen very few of either break subject to the force it is going to undergo.
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Goo Gone
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A lot of those are not o/rings, rather they are Delrin to aid in the holding ability and reduce wear from metal on metal contact
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Ernie, they are treated with their proprietary ECO coating and salt resistent, and only the black nickel is not recommended for salt usage
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Just use YLI 212 Natural and you will have the color of the blank with only the guide feet showing in the wrap
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Ernie Blum Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Measuring guide diameters, whether inside or > outside, for the purpose of putting the ones you > already own in size places is one thing. But I > have seen written on this board multiple times > people giving advice on guide sizes for various > weight fly rods using the "numbers". For
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Epic is no longer out of NewZealand, they are mfd in Korea
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Your hand is generally not in contact with the reel seat on a fly rod which I believe is the topic, although I I been know to mis read
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Yep you can use it, and if you do not thoroughly clean after each use, prepare the the ferrules to wear when the wax attracts dirt dust and foreign matter and acts like sandpaper on the ferrules
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To start with cork is an insulator so the boiiing nor most heat applications are not going to be successful
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Kendall Cikanek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > UV blocking finishes for wood are a catch 22. > While they are definitely more protective, the > varnishes with this characteristic still have a > limited lifespans and a need to be sanded quite a > bit before reapplication. They are also high build > and fairly glossy. The Maloof products ar
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I suggest that you first look at the longevity properties with the finishes. Most are not UV protectant, many are more designed for interior purposes, and not really designed for outside exposure or the elements, many suggest that they should be periodically renewed, and as most element exposed product used on, all have a tendacy to expand and contract to the elements, so one should consider a f
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Kendall Cikanek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Cottonwood has low durability in regards to > getting wet. It checks fairly quickly and can also > be difficult to sand. It is fairly resistant to > splintering, though. That is more related to you prepping and finishing technique
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Maybe a Calstar T 500 7? 0.95 8 20-30
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I do them for people all the time with no issues
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Bill Hickey Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I would give Clover brand #401 a try. Personally, > it’s a better quality thread than YLI. On a > couple of recent builds I’ve done on CTS Quartz > Glass, Pure and Shoot colored blanks, the Clover > 401 went totally clear. > > I’ve also used the Clover 401 on “clear” > Livingston Glass
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That was Al England, he retired and now they are being handled by HFF Custom Rods, one of the page sponsors
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I don't see any mention of him wanting to make a combo style Fly/Spin rod in his original question
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Mark Talmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Lawrence, > I was given a benchtop Harbor Freight 7 X 10 metal > lathe; it is absolutely the biggest piece of junk > tool which I have ever owned = very IMprecise and > NONrepeatable!!! It wouldn't be suitable as a boat > anchor. But one gets what one pays for = I > didn’t pay anything and did
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I am going to have to agree with Spencer's suggestion of the carbide for the guides and tip top. While not the least bit familiar with alligator fishing, dependent on the actual guide height leading to torque with a conventional layout, the spiral wrap may just be more beneficial than percieved as well as a reduction of the amount of guides needed
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You must cut the length of the grip down just a bit to match the OD of the winding check, and then just use a dremel or similiar took and remove some of the foam.
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For the last 5 or more years I have used a mixer and applied direct from the mixing cup. It does not use a ball to stir, but rather a roller bearing with a small stem attached to it to grab it. I mix everything for 5 minutes, turn off grab the stirring roller and let it drip a few drops to remove excess, then wipe with a paper towell and set on shelf for the next application
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The best black that appears to remain true to color is the Black Coal from Voodoo
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Actually would not the high spots show the contact with the sandpaper and block first?
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I do all mine with multiple dipping in the Oil based Helmans Spar Urethane, it is waterproof, UV resistent, and also allows for expansion and contraction which most woods incur
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Kinda wondering when this April fools joke was gonna bring something up. OH the powers of the internet and social media!!!!!
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Unless you are using it inh some extrme cold conditions,I would go with 1/0 running guides, and that revelation would be an excellent choice.
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