I would recommend US Composites or Raka Inc for 2 part foam. Both offer multiple densities. I think Mike Riley was using 6 Lb Density foam
Forum: rodboard

I have 2 on the boat - An AFTCO Maxforce and a Braid Brute Buster - I think I prefer the Braid a little bit more than the AFTCO because I like the Braid Butt Plate better. It is wider than the AFTCO, and I can move my knees a bit easier
Forum: rodboard

The standard Aqua Blue laminate is good for larger diameter blanks - like offshore rods. I have had the most success (least cracking) by heating the shell in a sealed container of water and heating in a microwave then applying very rapidly. They will do a thinner version on request, but I believe they require an minimum order of 50 sheets for for the thinlam version - heating in water also wo
Forum: rodboard

Yes you can use epoxy putty from HW store, but epoxy putty is fairly heavy. I'm kind of partial to forming the ramp out of foam, then covering with a light thread wrap, and then applying epoxy over the thread.
Forum: rodboard

What kind of rod are you making? Heavy and even Medium is definitely overkill for almost anything but offshore butts. All you are doing is adding resin and weight with the heavier sleeving.
Forum: rodboard

It works just fine as a stripe between the guide feet.
Forum: rodboard

Having used a bunch of abalone, I find that if I wrap my sacrificial thread tight, the edges blend, and any small cracks get pulled tight to the adhesive and also blend in. I don't think you will need to coat the abalone if your sacrificial wrap is good and snug and let it sit until the shell has cooled well.
Forum: rodboard

If the rod was fished on the gunnel, did the blank get nicked? The other thought was that the blank was able to move in the ferrule...
Forum: rodboard

Is this one of the hex blanks?
Forum: rodboard

You'll get lots of opinions from REALLY good rod builders. Once you find a system that works for you, keep using it. What has worked for me is warming the bottles of epoxy in warm water - before measuring and mixing, then I mix vigoously - yes there are bubbles in the mix... then I apply the epoxy fast to the rod... once the finish is on, I use a micro torch to help the epoxy flow out - keep
Forum: rodboard

How about color preserver over the ink - before finish?
Forum: rodboard

Jay - sorry for the delayed response. I don't pour my own cores. I cannot justify enough molds when I need grips for a bunch of rods, just easier/cheaper to order cores.
Forum: rodboard

I have used West Systems for many years. For rod building, it is my go to for laminating carbon over foam grips.
Forum: rodboard

Sorry for the delayed response - Yes I got the cores - Turn around time 4 days from order to receipt of the cores.
Forum: rodboard

FWIW, I ordered Cores online on Monday and they shipped today... If you need sleeve material, soller composites has it.
Forum: rodboard

Most of my rod building is for my own use. I'll build a set of rods of the components I want for my use, then use the rods for a few seasons, sell them for material cost and build a new set...
Forum: rodboard

The closest thing to rod finish epoxy would be the clear table top finish. An adhesive epoxy like Gorilla, Loc-Tite, etc really aren't suited
Forum: rodboard

Flex Seal (as seen on TV) - 1 can for 19.99, but if you act now, you can get a second can for just shipping and handling...
Forum: rodboard

Soller composites as mentioned above is the most comprehensive list of products and extremely reasonable pricing for small batch orders
Forum: rodboard

I have used urethane resin for casting purposes, but the open working time is very short... Not to mention adding a bunch of weight
Forum: rodboard

It does just fine with pigments. As stated, it works very similarly to rod bond.
Forum: rodboard

Minwax Marine Spar polyurethane
Forum: rodboard

If youhave a marine supply store near you, they typically carry small tubes of pigments - these are great, and IMHO require much less to be mixed in to your rod bond to achieve your color than powder paints
Forum: rodboard

I haven't had a rod that I have built get broken in actual fishing conditions or as a result of normal wear and tear. A friend laid one down and stepped on it on the edge of a dock... That broke...
Forum: rodboard

The inexpensive Laser engravers I have seen are pretty small with hard side walls - not sure you could get a rod butt into them. They get expensive very quickly...
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Abrasive blade on a miter saw would be my first pick. Hacksaw second, Dremel third. Wrap masking tape around and mark your cut line on the masking tape
Forum: rodboard

I use West Systems for all of my carbon grips. Carbon is not an issue for yellowing, so no worries there. It is pretty thin, so even if it didn't yellow, it wouldn't provide much build as a thread coating...
Forum: rodboard

I have a Diawa Spinning rod from the early 80s that is that translucent maroonish color - Very light but extremely tough rod
Forum: rodboard

If you do decide to try the nylon arbor, you may want to test just how well your epoxy bonds to it. At a minimum, you will need to rough them up a bit to get a bonding surface. I would think that you would get a better bond with wood
Forum: rodboard

Chances are that your resin/hardener ratio is off or you didn't thoroughly mix your epoxy prior to application - You can apply another coat, just make sure your ratio is correct and THOROUGHLY mixed
Forum: rodboard