Joe Vanfossen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I use just enough skinned carbon fiber grip to > fill my palm and wrap the reel on with thread and > finish with the reel placed far enough forward > that I can wrap my thumb and finger around the > blank. I get to have the benefits of a sleeved > foam core grip, a soft edge for my thumb and
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double post
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Steve Gardner Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Phil > While it may be true for some people that their > finger tips may be more sensitive then their > palms, that is not the case for many people who > work with their hands for a living. > Being a plumber to for the past 46 years, I've cut > my fingers 100's if not 1000's of times over
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Brett DeNicola Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > A friend gave me a batson forecast rx6 blank 8'6" > 5w. Not sure if i am going to get into fly fishing > or if i should just build it spinning. I was > thinking for unweighted sluggos or other soft > plastics for schoolie striped bass. Brett, the 5wt (anything) is light on fight for strip
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Matthew Paul Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Careful with shipping with them and over insure > any thing Good advice and practice, but I will add put it in a square box no matter what. If it can be stacked and thus less likely to roll around, less likely to get damaged. Kinda sounds like you tried to ship a tube package...not a good idea and never
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Love the micros, the foot shape is more secure due to the shape and I believe this a wise design given the shorter length of foot. Haven't had any problems with them or the old Fuji (with straight feet), but it the American Tackle foot design is obviously superior and will remain secure over time with no Forhan lock wrap. Very nice. Oversized/curved braces on the micro tips have proven thems
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Rick Elrod Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- I've already decided to sell my off > the rack equipment as I am able to replace it with > my builds. > Rick Elrod Don't. You might find some of it useful for parts or even worthy of partial rebuilds and improvements, especially with regard to guide layout strategies. Also fine material for learning how
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Mark Hedl Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > How do you guys hold these tiny things to the blank both > for adjusting placement as well as wrapping? > > Appreciate your thoughts here. > I don't hold them, the thread actually does when I slip the guide under because I start my wrap in front of the guide (about three turns) and proceed to wra
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Chris Garrity Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I'll add one thing: sometimes, a rod that is a > little bit tip-heavy can be a good thing. > If you have a rod that will be fished with the tip > down, like a boat plugging rod where during > retrieve the tip will be close to the water, > tip-heaviness can actually be a good thing. It can &g
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I will add I use exclusively U40 LS Supreme and what I do works well for me. What Roger said above about the "kick"? Some products might get thick and difficult to apply with extended time, hi-build products might as well. I tend to gravitate toward products which have a more generous working time, especially with 2-parts. Buzz, although Threadmaster HB works well for you, perhaps
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Buzz Butters Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- Students were > given round plastic stir stick and shown how to > SLOWLY mix so as to not introduce bubbles. They > were told to mix for a timed 5 minutes, and that > the finish should be clear when they were done > mixing. > > Buzz Whatever works for folks, I guess. Me? While I do
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Hey, the epoxy video was nice, but it's my new sandpaper cutter that's got me all giddy. Some nice vids on the channel, hacksaw blade/cutter board is killer for a guy like me who uses a lot of sandpaper strips for most everything. Thanks for posting those, Tom...I've a new and very useful tool hanging in the garage.
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Tom Lusis Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- She's > into tying bigger flies now so I wanted an outfit > which she could use for "trophy" fish. Tom, either one of your original PacBay ideas will work nicely for what she's likely cranking out at the vise. Folks fear 9' blanks for various reasons, but for slinging big stuff they keep the fly high
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William, the CA glues will hold up fine, I even use them on jigs and flies so water is not an issue. Most glues are much stronger than the materials they are bonding to, the material will peel long before the glue bond breaks on most used. Only issue with the thinner quickset superglue is gap filling, which they don't do well. Thicker, slower superglues will do better there but with a longer
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I believe, but do not have hard data, that putting > the original finish on too thickly, can cause > fisheyes. Thick finish certainly makes them a bit more obvious when they occur, that's for sure. Regarding the "no chance" part of contamination, I think anything near an HVAC system is pron
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Wes, depending on where you're finishing the rod, airborne culprits may be impossible to eliminate. Been there and a way around it is to finish the wraps and set the epoxy aside to let the cure start. When you see a fish-eye, just apply the thicker (semi-cured) epoxy over the fish-eye. Once it starts to thicken with time, it doesn't pull away nearly as easily and will usually leave a consisten
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Dave, I can remember some of the rods I've cast as a kid back when some were building spinning on fly and I get the "sloppy" part. Modern cone of carbon we work with now is vastly different and makes a sweet rod for spinning. I agree with you on the weight issue with carp rods...there are beefy and tend to have some heavy hardware as well. If you try to cross this build over and
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The rods look much like any other rod you will see on this forum, just longer. Could you define "sloppy" for me in this conversation? I'm not sure which rod attributes that would be referring to, but you may have an entirely different selection of blanks available in your part of the world. Additionally, what is the weight of these stalking rod blanks you find so heavy?
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Dave, if you are building the rod you can put it anywhere that suits you. From the butt of the rod I just measured, the reelstem is around 12" from the butt. Split-t, some counterbalance, standard Fuji reseat. I've notice many European rod builders like much longer handles than I use and thus different location of the reel. They seem to do just fine with it, guessing it makes the rod e
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An older St Croix Avid and a PacBay Rainforest 2 in 8wt are my favorites for the size you speak of. The PacBay is more toward the moderate side than the SC though not by much. For pond carp in the 1-3lb range, I actually built a 9' 3wt just and use it just for kicks and it's great, but not a set-up for anything bigger. Action, as stated prior is often described somewhere between fast and m
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Dave Rennie Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > : Strong enough to cope with hard fighting carp > upto 15lb, but still be fun with smaller fish of > 4lbs. > > : Light enough to carry in the hand all day (it > will be paired with a Shakespeare Supreme 035 > reel). Dave, I freeline corn (1-3 kernels) with 2/10 PowerPro braid on a spinnin
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Jon, ask Gilbert what kind of reel he is planning on using and it's weight. These short 2 wts are incredibly light and without a mini, featherweight reel tend to be overly butt heavy. It's kind of annoying for some folks and quite different from typical longer flyrods. Anything to gain with Legend Elite? Not really. At that weight and dimensions along with typical 2 wt angling situations t
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Yeah, Phil...flyrods are a bit different situation and I never met one that didn't "balance" wonderfully due to the reel being at the butt end. Never added and weight to change the fulcrum of any fly rod, it was where it needed to be all along. Now, take that reel off and try to d-haul to 80' with the rod and line alone. You'll conclude this experiment with a perfect understandin
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > I hope rod builders adjust the balance point > of a rod by moving the reel seat up or down, but > not by adding weight to the blank. Phil, the reason weight is added at the end of the blank is for maximal leverage with minimal added weight. While you can move the reelseat to accomplish the same
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Tom, FWIW, I've done this to flyrods and it offers no benefit I can speak off, unless you like re-dos with smaller guides. Idea has been around since L.A. Garcia wrote a book, it's always touted to have some type of benefit, but I did not see any. Line shakes and rattles within the big guides slightly more if that's a plus. To little weight difference to make rolls/mends any easier once off th
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Can > you suggest at what point on the blank a rod > should balance when it's used for 1) worming 2) > flipping 3) pitching 4) crank baits 5) drop > shotting 6) free lining - and whether the weight > of the reel being used influences the ideal > balance point? That's the "study how
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Phil, I add weight to place the fulcrum where I want it for fishing, not casting. With typical reel on rod. I suppose one could play with fulcrums/balance points with casting in mind and it may very well have some use. For my fishing, the cast is a few moments versus the wet retrieve which is really where I focus on the attributes of rod performance in hand. On most any rod, I can reach far b
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Cameron Johnson Wrote: If > it makes the tip feel lighter than I would think > it would help with sensitivity as it would be > easier to feel added weight from the fish on the > end of the rod? And I agree, hence why I typically will add butt weight to a longer blank to put the fulcrum just in front of my grip (hand) position. Tip heavy rods with no weight added may be able
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One rod broken, second fishing excursion with it, it was a flyrod (9' 7wt Diamondback Backwater blank) many years ago. Rather clean circumference break on butt section approximately 5" down from ferrule. Strange, ain't it? Never returned or pursued the matter with manufacturer, just considered it a bad buy/factory defect and moved on. Never bought another from aforementioned company whic
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I'll second Torin Koski's suggestion of looking into the ceramic ring/frame fit if the guide is of such nature. Oddly, it's not something I've ever noticed until the guide is on a rod blank, at which point the noise seems amplified. Never did anything to mine, doesn't bother me when I fish with the rod. Perhaps accumulated water crud solves it in short order. Try pinching the ring between y
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