And I am sure it makes for more soulful cast.
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How about some new terms to describe rods and blanks. The present terms fast, moderate and slow lead to confusion among many. How about tip flex, mid flex and deep flex. Don’t like this? Present your own terms.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It's not about the actual weight savings - it's > about rod performance. Even an either of an ounce > saved in the right place will make a HUGE > difference in how the rod performs. > > ................ This is a lesson that took me about four years to learn.
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I use Fuji thread for most of my wraps, and I know it will become significantly darker after epoxy is applied without using CP. Do a short test wrap on the rod after removing the damaged guide to see how it compares. It it’s a double foot guide, only remove the wrap on one foot, so you have a side by side comparison.
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Thanks, Don.
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I purchased one of your “mystery” rods, to enter your 2021 ICRBE Challenge. Have been really loking forward to this, even though I do not have a snowball’s chance to win. Still should be a good time. What happens if I can’t make it? Politicians are starting to push the panic button. I can easily see a state like North Carolina, which had 21000 new cases in the last seven days, refusing entry
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For me, the tubing mudhole sells works best. Cut it into very thin rings. Larger rings for larger guides. Easy to adjust while static testing too.
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These are nice. A perfect fit to the front of a size 16 reel seat. Cheap enough to keep several sizes on hand.
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The 17 size Fuji hood does not fit a 17Aero seat. Made that mistake.
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I use one of these for the initial roughing in. This tool keeps it concentric without gouging or tearing Then use Klingspor paper back sandpaper Fron 60 down to 400 grit
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I use these
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I use all burl for my grips.
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I’ve found Pac Bay thread to be the fuzziest. Fuji the least of all I’ve tried so far.
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Interesting. Did not see that coming.
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Don't have a Steez reel, but I have put a TD-Z on a Point Blank rod. Very nice combo.
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Phil, you always ask interesting questions, which are difficult to answer, or which require multiple “correct” answers. I think this one has a simple answer. There will always be people out there who’s egos demand that their toys be the most expensive. They are small demographic, but a loud one.
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I think these blanks are designed for slow pitch jigging.
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David, i have been using the tubing, bought from Mudhole. Have had no problems using that. Did not like tape. Tubing makes it much easier to move the guides around while static testing. It is about time to order more tubing, and thought maybe these bands might be better. Thanks Roger. I saw those, but did not find dimensions.
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Don't know about your specific applications, but for spinning rods, I like an Alps plate type seat wrapped on a 0.98” carbon fiber tube. For casting rods, a Fuji PTS seat.
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Searched on amazon and found ortho bands, in sizes 1/8 through 3/8” in 1/16” increments. What sizes are you guys using? And are the 1/8” small enough for the tip section of rod with a 4 - 6 tip?
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Thanks, gents for this interesting conversation. David, where are from? Texas? Florida? Somewhere with big bass? I am not. here in the middle of Illinois, you wont find heavy vegetation. You will find clearer water, more sparse cover, and smaller bass than what is expected further south. I have only caught two bass of 8lb. None bigger. That does mean lighter line. A lot more bites on 10lb line t
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Norman, you have stated my quandary better than I did. Just trying to place the numbers into some sort of perspective. I know I will eventually get to the point where the numbers have some relevance for me. Being an old fart, I hope I live long enough.LOL The difference in perspective is interesting. Tom says this blank will make a fairly stout bass rod. With the blank in hand, I have to agree
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Thanks, Tom. Being new to this CCS thing, I do not have a feeling for, or any kind of understanding of, what the numbers actually mean. My basis for comparison are the the blanks I’ve built, and measurements taken from all my factory rods. A small database of numbers. A curiosity based question for you. David, in his post mentioned a blank I am very familiar with, having built one for myself,
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Do you have an ERN number? > > ............ Between 13 & 14, closer to 13
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Picked up a blank the other day. Nice and straight, very light and crisp in hand. Very quick recovery from flexing. Put in the test rig and got the following numbers. 6’6” length IP = 345g AA = 70° Any thoughts on possible uses? I didn't have anything in particular in mind when I bought it. One of those bargain impulse buys. It will be a personal rod. Being in the middle of Illinois, salt
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This was my third Expo, and I have to say, the best thing on the Expo floor is Billy’s booth. NERBS in force and action. Bunch of talented, knowledgable dudes, willing to share anything they know with anybody who asks.
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I use a teapot. Water boils at 212°F. The steam whistling out of the teapot will be a bit less than that. It will never got hot enough to harm a blank, and it will never fail to soften cured epoxy. Just rotate the guide wrap in the “whistle”.
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Tru-Oil would be my choice, and is much easier to work with.
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Tru-Oil would be my choice, and is much easier to work with.
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Contact Angler’s Workshop. I got one there for a 7’ two piece spinning rod.
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