It's a learning process. By experiencing what doesn't work, one learns to accept the value of what does.
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I'm using a piece of the same flyrod blank used for the original internal repair segment, but bigger, from just above the ferrule. The taper is good, but wall thickness is only about 1/32". It may well not be strong enough, but the overwrap should help. Rather than trying to wrap from the blank up onto the repair sleeve, I'll probably just make a little ramp of finish epoxy when I finish
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Before wrapping the guides on the repaired rod, I taped them on and test cast the blank 10 casts. After test casting I completed the wrapping and let it cure. I then took the rod out for final test casting. On the tenth cast, the repair failed. The drill bit snapped in half. Drill bits are not designed to flex, evidently, and this one couldn't take the stress. What to do? Any further int
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Kerry Hansen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Jim Kinkennon Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > I just saw the article you referenced today. > It's > > very interesting. It would be nice to have an > > appropriate engineer tell us about shear points > > and things like that. The inte
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The internal method has the disadvantage of higher > stresses since the diameter of the structural > member is so small. The external sleeve method > simply works; I've repaired numerous rods with it > an had only one problem, a sleeve that I didn't > epoxy well enough came loose. Regluing it
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I just saw the article you referenced today. It's very interesting. It would be nice to have an appropriate engineer tell us about shear points and things like that. The internal repair has the advantage of being practically invisible, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's a better way. I don't know. I'm interested in how this repair holds up. One thing I didn't do was change the guides to
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NOTE: Photos are now available at: Photos, Miscellaneous, Jim Kinkennon, starting at "rod repair 1" and transiting left. Address of first pic: While pier fishing in Panama City Beach, I experienced a blank fracture. I was fishing a 9' G1000 graphite spinning rod rated for approx. 1-3 oz. lure wt., using 20lb. braid loaded on a PENN 5500SS reel. I had already had wind knots. I
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I use a German automotive product from the '70s called "Klasse All-In-One". It includes a non-abrasive cleaner, polish, and acrylic shine and protection. It can be removed with detergent like 'Dawn' in water, so as not to contaminate repairs or mods. It's easy to use. After a fishing vacation, I wash the rods with Dawn and warm water and rinse them. Let them dry thoroughly. Use pr
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<p>Proportional guide spacing XL worksheet</p>
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Robert Hummel Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Jim, I have an excel spreadsheet that I got years > ago that i use for all my guide spacing or at > least an initial starting point. Very easy to use > and works great. Since almost all the rods I > build are for bottom fishing and i don't worry > about casting distance. I believe it works a
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Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > There may be a substantial difference between > placing guides for aesthetics and for performance! > One can start with any placement system, but > should always then do the static testing for final > placement. I would avoid 'always' and 'never'. I'd say 'generally', or 'in most cases'. The
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Jim, > When I first started building, I would always > place my first guide closer to the tip than the > the 2nd guide was to the first guide. > > But, after building a few rods, I realized that a > lot of blanks are relatively stiff in the first > few inches and do not need the first
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The 3.75 was just a number used in Billy Vivona's example of how to simply expand the gap between guides gradually as one travels from the tip towards the butt of a blank. In reality, the builder puts the first guide wherever wanted, and then decides how to space the remaining guides. The example shows that, by making a minor adjustment to guide placement, the appearance can be enhanced without
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Proportional guide placement is just one tool to produce the desired effects. As John Giannini of J&M custom tackle has pointed out. Guide type, number, placement, wrap and underwrap length, in addition to many other factors can be used to produce different effects from the same blank. The blank can be tuned differently to best suit different users. Lou Caruso has pointed out how slowing
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That's true. However, the percentage increase is different for each gap. Here's the proportional method, from a spreadsheet. (The cut and paste has some format problems, and one should check the numbers to see that they add up, but it gives an idea of how quick and easy it is): From Prev. From Guide Tip Spacing factor 1.09745 0 1st guide 3.75 3.75 Di
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Sometimes guides are placed on a blank by slightly increasing the gap from guide to guide as one progresses from the tip. For example, one may have a given number of running guides and not wish to keep the gap from guide to guide the same, but to increase the distance between guides until reaching the choke point in NGC guide placement. Or, one may have placed the first guide a given distance f
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I'd love it if someone would pull one of each from stock and give them a static deflection test and see if they bend the same. Then wiggle them each and see if they flex the same. I suspect it's the same blank, but have no way to show it.
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Thanks, but I was interested in the comparison to the GLB 108 1MH. (It would be interesting to compare the properties of the GLB 108 1M as well, though.) The only difference in specs shown is the GLB 18 1 MH shows a 1/2 oz. greater upper lure wt. range, at 3 1/2 oz., compared to 3 oz for the GSB 108 1 m. Here are the possibilities I can see: 1) The specs posted by Lamiglas for one of the bl
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The issue with choosing SiC over other ring materials is said to be reduction or elimination of line wear or failure due to heat buildup, rather than guide wear. This would, I suspect, be most apparent with saltwater fish. SiC guides are supposed to dissipate heat better. I wonder if they generate less heat from friction as well? Has anyone experienced a difference in line wear or failure be
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Some years ago I built a spinning rod on a Lami G1000 blank that's either a GSB 108 1M or a GLB 108 1MH. I don't have the records anymore, and I'd like to know which blank I used. Lami's rep told me it would be practically impossible to tell without flexing the two blanks together. I thought someone might know how much each or one of them would deflect with a given weight suspended from the ti
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Thanks very much.
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I just re-wrapped a Fenwick SU108-2 blank, and would like to know how Fenwick rated it for lure wt. and line wt. I'd also like to know the tip and butt diameters. (I left the original tip, reel seat, grips and butt cap on it.) It's white, two-piece, 9' Fenglass (S-glass) with a relatively light, lively tip section. I've tentatively rated it for 1-3 oz. lure wt. and up to 20lb. test line. I l
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Just to be 'clear' about it, does this mean using a urethane finish instead of a two-part epoxy finish? Sounds like a good idea.
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It ambered everywhere, but the ambering was not noticeable over the orange thread. It was awful over the white thread and white blank.Because it was so long ago, I don't remember which finish. It was a regular hi-build two-part epoxy finish. I think thinning the finish with acetone made it worse. The consensus is that all epoxy finishes amber somewhat over time, although some recent versions
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John Martines Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Great blank!! My suggestion with mono is use a > Fuji SVAG 40 and go from there! Consider also using the above as a stripper guide and going to single foot guides (LVAG or BYAG, etc.) for the remaining guides. Use the one double foot guide and 6 single foot guides, plus tip top. Mike Peacher recently hand
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I just rewrapped my UT Vols theme rod, because of excessive ambering of the finish over the white thread and white blank. I hope this will not be a problem for you.
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These are store bought (Mud Hole). I have no reason to believe there's a thing wrong with them. I might have gotten something on them by handling them.
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Thanks very much. I'll try the distilled water, and see if that won't do it.
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