Hi Folks. After a move to a different state I am just getting my dream rod-building workbench together. Got it almost finished today. Its a little over 12 feet long (I do a lot of surf rods) and as it sits tonight it the tabletop part is unpainted plywood. The thought entered my mind that rather than leave it bare wood, why not paint it so objects will pop out in contract when you dro
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Friends: Over the years several of my "closeout" or "seconds", or "by the foot" rod blank sources have dried up. For years a hole-in-the- wall place in Sloatsburg NY was my go to place. Most recently another hole in the wall place in Satellite Beach FL that went out of business a year or two ago. That place was wondaful as they had old Fenwick, Sabre, Browning
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Gents: Has any one used this blank? I have had this one for perhaps 20 years but never wrapped it. I probably got it with travel in mind, maybe offshore, but just not sure what I might use it for anymore, although the sky's the limit as far as application or geography is concerned. I somehow, vaguely recall is was once designed as a big kingfish (monster yellowtail) rod for New Zealand
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If your application is Cest Coast my recommendations are as follows: 1) It matters not whether a unibutt is involved. A 4' blank properly outfitted is just fine, or a unibutt version which will put the overall rod length at anout 5 1/2 ft, mebbe a smidge more. 2) For trolling ONLY, I would go AT LEAST roller stripper and Roller tip, if not all rollers. The issue is line stress for hours
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Friends: I'm about to strip down a number of rods to freshen the guides and looks. The issue is preparation of the blank prior to rewrapping new guides. In the past I have had mixed success in recoating the blank. The finished results have been lumpy or if smooth have scratched or chipped away quickly with only slight knocks and scrapes. The rods in question are Calstar Graphiters
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Friends: Been looking at heavy duty pier fishing rods in Florida, especially East coast (Juno Pier) Judging by the videos, I'm guessing old school howald style blank of the 8' length (plus) category, old school spiral guides and stainless tip. Kind of inspiring really, and I want to make one of those. I have a beefy 8' Gator blank so I'm GTG on that - bought it years ago thinking I
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I use flexcoat which IMO is great stuff - the best I've found so far in over 50 years of rodbuilding. I mix mine vigorously, because that works for me. Learned that particular lesson about mixing epoxy thoroughly from "Gene" the rod repair guy and fellow employee, at Atlas Sports in the Washington DC area lo those many years ago. Yes it does bubble up a bit when I mix it.
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Exactly what Roger said. I learned that on this site a number of years ago. And have used this technique successfully with good results in some hard fighting fish (tuna, yellowtail, shark) that would stress a weakened blank. And I'd keep the heat thing to the minimum as IMO it weakens the underlying blank.
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Hmmm. If its for true stand up fishing for the big tuna (yellowfin-bluefin) the rod will be less than 6' overall length. My preferred range is 4 1/2 to 5 1/2 feet. Perfect do it all blank is a 6455XXH. For a "soft tip" id definitely go with an all glass blank. Nothing carbon or "composite". If it is sit down (or more appropriately) "rod holder" fishing where yo
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Doggone it! I was planning to make an extra effort to finally come in 2020, but that revised weekend of Feb 23-24 will have me overseas! The original, earlier, weekend would have been just right! Oh well
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I agree with Russ. For everything you are chasing, except perhaps the grouper, you can handle with 30 lb test or under. If it were me (and its not!) I would go with a 6-61/2' "tuna" blank rated 30-50 or so, and run 20-25 lb mono on it. Better matched, and way more comfortable for the kids.
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Friends: Have discovered some nice old saltwater blanks in my stash, a bit of dust on the bottle if you know what I mean. In the years they have sat patiently waiting for me to pay attention to them they have taken an obvious set. Is there any way to straighten them out? I'd hate to relegate them to the scrap pile to be cannibalized. Thanks in advance
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Thanks everyone for your comments. Especially Gary for his kind offer. As far as the rod tube for the existing Stowaway rod goes, I have it in an innocuous homemade PVC tube which fits in my briefcase, and the rod itself is rolled up piece by piece in a handkerchief that doubles as a neckerchief in sunny environments. I pursued most of the various leads. Its astonishing to me that there a
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Gents: Some years ago I bought a Cabelas-labeled blank that was 6 or 7pc 9' for 6wt. It travels beautifully in my carry on bag for travel. I'm now looking to build something similar in a 4 wt. Problem is I cant seem to find anyone who makes a blank in more than 4 pieces. (4-pieces is too few - the collapsed rod too long) Anyone have suggestions? Thanks in advance!
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I understand the issue quite well, especially of international travel. I also concluded long ago that the multi-piece rod that can be carried into the cabin is the best answer. Several dimensions: 1) It matters as much where you are going THROUGH, as where you are going. In other words your checked gear will be subject to attrition every time, and in every place your plane lands. Your
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I put my rods in the long plastic bags cut to fit, that can be found at, say, Mudhole. They then ride in a PVC tube, horizontally, butt forward. with a rolled up t-shirt at the end to protect the tips. The plastic bags are not only effective against fracturing, but rubbing and chafing as well. Plus they are reusable.
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I am of the view that stainless guides for some applications are actually superior to others. For years (decades actually) I considered that the higher quality the insert, the more I wanted the guide on any rod I built. Not so any more, even if I can babythe rod (as I do). For applications where even modest violence is going to happen: like falling and smacking the rod on a rock while wadi
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I beg to differ on retiring the rod! It obviously has mojo if he is nailing the walleye with it. I'd keep it going until it finally snaps on a massive walleye! THEN retire it. To quote Teddy Roosevelt: “Let us rather run the risk of wearing out than rusting out.”
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My response is to Norm, thanks for the tip on the flex coat tip adhesive. I'll upgrade the emergency kit, and toss the pine resin stuff from...1960 something. On a parallel track, I discovered the newer fly like treatments this year, and put aside the old Cortland 333 conditioner in the little flat tin can. Progress I guess.... :)
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I don't think they change over time, however I know that I have changed over time. Lately, I have been happily rediscovering some of the rods I made years ago, especially the old fiberglass ones. I guess they are like old ties and suits, eventually they'll become cool again!
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Phil: I've had poor luck with hot melt over the years but still carry a stick of it in my emergency repair kit. I use the old fashioned pine smelling resin stuff that you heat with a match. For example, last month while salmon fishing in AK, I had a tip pop off a factory rod and I used the hot melt only to have it fail after a few casts. Tried again to reset it, still it failed. So I just s
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Can you recall hitting it, perhaps with a flying lure when it cam loose from a snag? Or inadvertently whacking it on a boat gunnel? Or high-sticking a hot fish? All of the above have successfully generated a splintered blank for me.
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What size lures do you call light? Spinning or casting? I have made a bunch of rods that can go those sorts of distances, and learned something from every one. Also might have some very cost effective blank alternatives, depending on your answers...
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I never use the hot melt glue, except for an emergency kit I bring along when fishing so I can at least stay in the game (used it in Alaska last month to reset a tip on a fly rod...twice). I find it not durable enough. That said on both factory rods and custom, my technique is the same: I use a clean flame bic lighter to heat the tip tube, and when I hear the gentle pop accompanied by rising
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Yup. Full length wrap. Lots of strain on ferrules for surf rods. Not just to cast, but also fighting big fish.
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What Phil and Donald sid +2. BUT, make sure the end cap fits before you let the glue on the seat dry, to make sure there is sufficient clearance inside the reel seat.
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Nope, that would be a poor choice because the wood will snap under much pressure. Way better to use solid fiberglass for this purpose. Its strong and will bend a bit, which is what you want.
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Something else for your to do list: keep an eye out for solid rod blanks. You can buy them new, but also find old rods at yard sales, etc. I have even used those fiberglass poles you put in your driveway in the wintertime to tell you where to plow the snow, just chuck it up and sand in a taper.
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You also have the option of cutting the blank where you want, then making a ferrule out of a separate piece of blank material that fits over the top of both of them. When you have it measured just right then epoxy the ferrule to the tip section and have the tip section be the female end. Taper the edge of the mated surface so thread can climb up the ridge to reinforce the ferrule. If you hav
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I looked up one of the blanks and it was rated up to 3/4 ounce lure. For your proposed application - distance casting - this is too light. For example, I use the tins for this application starting at 1oz, but if I want serious distance I start at 1 1/2 oz and go up to about 2 1/2. A rod rated for 3/4 oz max will cast the lure but it will flop into the water unsatisfactorily close to your fee
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