Hello, I’m wondering if anyone has found a fluorescent (neon) thread and/or coating that does not fade much if any over time/sun exposure. I know that most all fluorescents are fugitive (fade) over time/use, it’s just their nature. But some colors fade less than others, and am not sure if some brand of coating/cp may delay the fade to some extent. Is there a specific brand/color/coating tha
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Hello, I’ve done several searches, and unfortunately have come up with different answers. I know that for the 16mm AMTAK Aero reel seat .920 Texalium tubing is supposed to fit perfectly. My issue is that I can’t find a definite answer for the 17 mm version. Does the .980 tubing fit without gaps? I’ve also seen where 1.05 was claimed to fit the 17mm.. so am unsure what to order. Lastly, I
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Lynn, Thanks, that would be ideal! Does it snap into the 18mm version seat? (I’m not sure if the end is different from the 16mm) Thanks for all the help folks, still new to this! Craig
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Thanks Ron, Yes, I’ll likely be needing if I can figure out everything else. Could you measure the foregrip ends diameter? The part with the finger hole that would butt up against a foregrip. As for the seat I’d be ordering the 18mm .433 seat
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Actually that’s just about what I had in mind! I figured instead of a short nun of a foregrip and a winding check transition, why not try just (albeit larger) the winding check. Hopefully not that big, but I don’t know until I find out the measurement. It’s a tough seat to find, as most carry the 16mm and not the 18mm. But I have carpal tunnel syndrome, and a larger grip is more tolerable to me
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Hello, I was hoping someone would have one of the PAC Bay GBS reel seat in 18mm on hand? I’m looking for the outside diameter measurement of the fore grip dide of the seat, as well as the thickness of the plastic. I’m wanting to order a aluminum winding check to use instead of a foregrop. Too large and I’ll end up with a lip, too small and there will be a gap. I know there’s was I could rig i
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Thank you guys! Do you think I should put on en extra coat over the carbon fiber or is the strength in the fiber not the epoxy?
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Hello, I want to use a plate reel seat on a saltwater Rod. I'm wondering if I do the carbon skinned foam for the underlying handle if it would have enough long term stability\durability or if I need to just go with the hard carbon tubes like the texalinium types? Thanks, Craig
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Thanks Matthew that's the blank I was asking about above... I'm just worrying about it being too fast for punching,. Some manufacturers seem to label everything as fast, but blanks built for some things are reported to be actually more moderate. I was hoping this blank was more moderate, and/or since I was taking half a foot off it would become so. Another way to look at it is Im wondering:
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Thank You. Well then, does anyone have the numbers in this blank, as well as a couple of more parabolic flipping blanks? Thanks Again, Craig
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Hello, I'm looking to add a slightly shorter rod for punching mats here in Florida. I'm looking at the NFC IM MB795. I'd like to try trimming 6"off the butt to make it 7' 3". I know this will give it slightly less power, and make it slower. It's listed as recommended for a flipping blank, yet is listed as fast. I'm wondering if the trim will make it more of a mod fast? Or is it not
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Hello, I'm messing around with making a pistol grip spin cast rod build, but the reel would be awfully high. Just wondering if anyone would have one of the old offset Super Sticker seats ? Thanks, Craig
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Thank You that would be great! Craig
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Terry, could you post a couple pics? I'm having a hard time visualizing your reinforcement. Thanks, Craig
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Thank You all. I may just use the double guide method (of a diy microwave stripper) to test out my theory. I wanted to try the line taming of the stripper combined with the line mgmt. of the smaller micros to see if I would get better distance on a spinner with heavier lures. Don, in answer to your question, I assumed it goes through email, but it was through the "Contact Us" on you
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Hello, I was wondering if anyone knows a way to get the 3mm MicroLite Microwave guide set but with a spinning Microwave/transition guide? I've emailed American Tackle 2x and never got a response, so am trying here. Thanks, Craig Dover, Fl
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Thanks Guys!
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Hello, Just wondering if there's any harm with running a slightly larger size top than the running guides on a spinning rod? I'm using size 6 runners and have a spare titanium size 8 top I'd like to use. Thanks, Craig
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Thanks All! Craig
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Hello, For a tip that is 5.5, in mm 2.18 by my calculations, would you get a 2.2 or 2.4 mm tube top. I'd be ordering from overseas, so getting both not really an option. Thanks, Craig
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I'm looking at ordering one of the Seeker S-Glass 706 blanks, not sure if I'll get the S or C version. My question is that the description of the blank on Mudhole's page it speaks of a proprietary blend of E-Glass and graphite. I assumed this was just an error in the listing. But when I checked Anglers Workshop it said the same thing. I'm very confused! Thanks, Craig
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Hello, Just wondering how a swim bait blank (I was specially considering the Phenix MX-UR80MH) would work for a Punching and Pitching Rod? Thanks, Craig
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Thanks, that's who I contacted. They did not email back to me, so I thought I would ask here. Craig
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Thanks Guys, but has anyone handled both blanks so they can give opinions on how they compare? I know there are the S and C in the Seeker, and 3 in the RFLE line, but I thought I might have more luck with a response if I didn't narrow it. I realize it would be best to contact The one place carrying the RFLE. I did, and they never got back with me. Thanks Again, Craig
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Hello, I'm in need of a crank bait rod, and have read a lot of posts, and almost all are positive for these 2 models. I was hoping someone who has handled or built both could tell me how they differ. I know that Rich Forhan was a big proponent of the BC-706-S, and later designed the RFLE. From what I've read, the 706-s is more of a fast blank. RFLE is listed as more mod-fast, but haven't seen
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Well, to be honest I'm not sure, it would be roughly the weight of a guide, aluminum tube and adhesive compared to a guide, thread and epoxy. I'm not an experienced builder for sure. But I did happen to read a Spolek article where (grossly paraphrasing) an extra 1.17 grams at the tip of a rod equaled a 15% decrease in rod frequency and line speed. Granted that was on a fly rod. Craig
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I've tried searching, but "wrap", "tip top", "guide" don't really differentiate enough to find useful threads. I know you can wrap a guide as a top, instead of a tube top. I'm considering this for a rod that I'm trying to keep the tip as light as possible. Are there any tips/tricks For this? Any pitfalls I should look out for? Should I use a locking wrap, and sho
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I'm inexperienced, so take this with a grain of salt. Another option that might be possible is to simply remove the foregrip and go with no foregrip. You could do a epoxy/thread dam as a transition to the reel seat. If the blank is discolored or dull from the sanding, you could do a bit of a butt wrap above the thread dam.
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Thanks for all the considered replies! I must say that my rod building experience is limited, I've drifted into it as a combination of my hobby of lure building, and wanting to start bass fishing in tournaments since I moved down to Florida, and I will defer you you greater experience in both. I'm contrary by nature, and rather than accept the status quo, I like to understand the "why&
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I've never handled one, but Rainshadow has a RX6/E-Glass composite travel blank that is rated 1/4 - 3/4 with mod fast action, but it's 3 piece not 2. Craig
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