Peter Yawn Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Checked the MB733 just to be sure. 470 grams and > 72 degrees. Can't get tip and butt since it is > built. Haven't fallen in love with it for bottom > contact, but does really well with 4" Keitech Easy > Shiner on a 3/16 to 1/4 oz jig head. I like mine for the same thing. 3.8 to 4” swim bai
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I would try this route instead. I think it would be hard to get sections to match properly for a telescopic rod.
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I built up a SCV 76mlxf. I have not fished the short MLXF rods, but I think the short ones are softer into the middle of the rod. The 7-6 has a very soft tip, but it transitions very quickly into the backbone. So much so, that there is not a lot of “cushion” when fighting a fish compared to say the 70mlf. The scv 70mlf is the rod I compare all my other finesse rods too. It is my baseline for
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There is no X-ray sj763 that I am aware of and the X-ray SJ703 is much lighter in power. Did you mean SJ765?
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They make an SB684, if he can go a 2” shorter.
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The sj703 X-ray feels similar to my SCV 70mlf st croix rods in power and action. The FW702 based on charts appears quite a bit less powerful. That may be what you want, but unless c2 line from RodGeeks is significantly different than the higher end lines, it does not look like it would be comparable to the rod you are replacing.
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Based on this thread, is there any reason to think exposed reel blank reel seats or resting a finger on the blank in front of the reel seat aid in detecting a bite?
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I am a fan of rods from 7-7’6” for most applications including finesse. But, Ned himself is a fan of the short rods for the Ned rig. Hence Z-mans release of sub 6’ rods for the technique.
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Maybe try the Matagi universal butt joint system? Voodoo has them. I am going to try it on a spinning rod. I have not seen any posts here about it so far.
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That seems like a really good description. I am still figuring out the best niche for the HS7600 HM rod, but I really like how it casts so far. I think it will get a lot of use. I bought a Steez 76mml rod to compare spinning rods to, since that rod is often recommended as one of the best all round spinning rods out there (hence why it is named "The One"). Side by side, I think I pref
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While we are on the topic of HS blanks, I noticed on the CCS database spreadsheet that the SJ762 and HS7600 are about the same power. I found that surprising. Maybe should not have been, but I have a lot to learn about blanks.
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Me too. A couple refreshes and it seems to go away.
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I tried a few with no coating and did not like that. The texture holds grime pretty good. My first ones I did with just PG. They were fine but do not pop like the epoxy and PG. PG does not fill in the texture.
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Maybe got too hot, but every grip and rod I have built has been dried in that exact box with the Christmas tree lights. It usually brings temps up to the 70-80 range. My shop is usually around 60-65 except in the summer when it is whatever Michigan summer weather dictates.
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If the blank does not extend to the back, the rod weight will be lighter than other building techniques but will balance be off because of much less weight behind the reel seat?
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Epoxy was nice and smooth, then after turning for awhile, big, huge bubbles. Used heat to try and pop them, but they would return. Definitely bubbles, I think this picture was after I tried to pop them with heat or a needle. It all worked out, just never had this happen before.
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I did switch to a different brand of epoxy, I will need to look when I get home and see what my epoxies are (gong through older epoxy first). This batch of grips was NFC and most of my previous ones were CFX, so could be a reaction there. But, unfortunately that is 2 variables to sort out.
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I have always applied rod finish over the factory woven graphite grips. Has anyone else had the epoxy go on fine and then put it in the drying box and it develop HUGE bubbles by epoxy standards? This is a first. I have done it this way for awhile and this has never happened before. Thankfully, it sands down pretty good and can apply the urethane still, a few minor imperfections. It did this tw
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So, I just got a blank with 2 curves. Which one do I base the straightest axis on?
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Here are my lightest builds SCV 76mlxf blank weight: 1.7 oz. Finished weight: 2.895 2.895-1.7=1.195 added weight Elliott E-SJ73L-F 1/32-1/4 oz, 4-10 lb line Blank: 1.355 oz. Finished weight: 2.635 2.635-1.355=1.28 added weight. These are both with Microwave nanolite guides, Split carbon fiber foam reel seat, TN style rings.
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I tried the can method once and it works, but getting the Permagloss out was a pain. It also slowly leaked from the screw eye until that would harden each time. I am sure I did something wrong. It did stay liquid in the can though.
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The TVS 16 reel seat is my least favorite ever. Too small to fill the hand properly and uncomfortable for me. It is actually the very reel seat that most drove me back into rod building. It really aggravated the arthritis in my thumb.
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The SJ762 bend deeper into the blank. The 76mlxf is pretty unique with a very light, fast tip, but then it locks down a lot more quickly near the tip than a rod like the SJ762. I have the SJ762, HS7600-2 HM, and the 5c76mlxf. I will need to flex the HS7600 side by side (in separate locations right now), but I believe the HS7600 is more powerful with a stiffer tip section. I really want to
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Alex, I would say you have done more to make rodbuilding affordable with high end blanks than any other company. Speaking as someone that does not build for a living, just as a hobby. I appreciate what NFC has done and their pricing structure and sales. I would have taken advantage of a sale that just ended, but I just have too many blanks to build to add more to the pile right now, Best
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I ran the SB 724 win the mix with those, and it was lighter than the 4 I put in. Go figure. I did not try the 684. I need to get a fixture for mounting and measuring CCS stuff set up in the shop at some point. I have wanted to CRB deflection tool so I can hold two rods side by side to compare, but it has been out of stock everywhere since I started looking for it last year. I have most of the
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I am surprised how similar these are with this tool. The MB 736 and SJ 736 are virtually clones with the SJ being a hair faster.
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I could be wrong, but I think NFC once mentioned that leaving the ridges on the X-ray saves a step in the manufacturing process and helps keep costs down compared to the HM blanks. But, the Black Mirror X-rays have come out sense then at the same price as regular X-rays, so I am not sure that reasoning holds up anymore.
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I emailed them to ask too, but have not heard anything. The regular X-ray is listed as 1.5 oz. The black mirror as 1.3 oz. And the C2O6, as 1.4. But, I looked at other regular vs black mirror weights and they did not vary from each other, so I suspect the listed weight for black mirror version of the SJ 703 is a mistake or an odd blank that was off.
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John Nesse Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The P 703 is listed at 1.5 oz: > > The P704 also says 1.5oz: > > / > > Interestingly, the 703 C6O2 blank is listed at > 1.4oz while the x-ray sanded (mirror finish) is > listed at 1.3oz. But the C6O2 blank is supposed > to be 30% lighter. > > In short, I'm not sure
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