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Current Page: 1 of 21
Results 1 - 30 of 611
18 days ago
Mike Ballard
If you want the most performance, best most secure reel holding and least likely to ever rust, corrode jam or fail, then its a Fuji nylon pipe seat all day long.
Forum: rodboard
21 days ago
Mike Ballard
Check the RodMaker issue before last for a very easy way to inlet for a seat hood. Doesn't require a lathe and only a spade bit sharpened in reverse.
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Mike Ballard
This is a bit off topic but it does involved the subject of masking tape bushings. If you are attempting to sell a rod to a customer and you tell him you use masking tape bushings to support and center the seat, versus using urethane foam or glass drywall tape bushings, which do you think your customer would choose? I know that carefully made tape bushings will work in most instances outside of r
Forum: rodboard
7 weeks ago
Mike Ballard
Quick as lightning from my place. Probably heavy internet traffic in your locale.
Forum: rodboard
7 weeks ago
Mike Ballard
If you change the rod by adding a handle that extends the rod then just treat it as a single unit. The butt of the handle now becomes the butt of the rod. Shim it with tape or whatever and take the measurements as you would normally do. You can changed the length so the numbers will also change. REmember the deflection distance will also change because the overall rod is now longer.
Forum: rodboard
7 weeks ago
Mike Ballard
Steve Stolle Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Ok my focus has shifted from paint to carbon > fiber. I have one more question please. Is there > an epoxy I can use to laminate and coat the grips > that comes in more of a consumer size ,like 4 oz? > Most of the epoxy thats reccomended here comes in > quarts and I simply would notuse that muc
Forum: rodboard
7 weeks ago
Mike Ballard
Do a search for Permagloss on this site.
Forum: rodboard
7 weeks ago
Mike Ballard
It is probably just as good as any of the other 20 epoxies already out there. Or maybe none are any good and that is why we keep seeing so many new epoxy coatings pop up. I cannot figure out what the existing epoxies are not doing to the extent that everybody and their brother is bringing out a new epoxy every few months.
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Mike Ballard
Ed Rose Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Sorry I can't address your issue but wondering why > epoxy coat a carbon grip? He used urethane. This makes the grip more tactile and 'sticky' in terms of being able to hold it in wet weather. Non coated grips will get a little slicker feeiling when wet. Sort of why you coat hardwood basketball courts. Makes th
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Mike Ballard
If I am already hitting my target, how does a supposedly more accurate rod help me to be more accurate?? The tip end of a rod blank going somewhere other than along the same plane as where the caster aimed it will not happen until at least after the cast has happened. The lure or line leaves the station at the point that the rod is unloaded. What the tip does or where it goes after that is not go
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Mike Ballard
Looks good. Those long inscription areas can be tricky but looks like you nailed it. Nice handle to.
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Mike Ballard
Nobody casts on the same plane or axis each time. So all this stuff about tracking and oscillations affecting casting accuracy are out the window. They would change on each axis so if they really made any difference you would be accurate on one plane and not on any other. Guys that can cast can cast accurately on any plane.
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Mike Ballard
Not sure that pressing a rod blank tip against the floor or ceiling puts the same sort of lifting load on the blank that actually lifting with it does. I could be wrong but they do not seem similar in terms of what is being done to the blank.
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Mike Ballard
Braid is small diameter and limp so you can usually get away with smaller guides but I would be suspect of a 16 for the butt guide. Make really sure that any knots or connections you have will clear those 5.5 guides. I am guessing you are not using a shock leader since you are on braid but if you area I would make doubly sure your knot will clear through the 5.5s.
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Mike Ballard
If we are talking about a reel seat that will hold a reel ultra-securely, never come loose, never rust, corrode nor jam, and is about as light as you can get then a Fuji pipe seat is the ticket. Titanium seats do not come close.
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Mike Ballard
Mud Hole?
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Mike Ballard
The stuff that archers use for assembling arrows is a safe bet. Any archery and some hunting stores will have it on hand.
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Mike Ballard
They do. You will be OK using them.
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Mike Ballard
For a reel seat your best bet is a Fuji nylon composite seat. They are bulletproof and will never rust, jam, or break. They also hold a reel more securely than anything else out there.
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Mike Ballard
The result is already the opposite.
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Mike Ballard
So now the reduction guides are being called "choking" guides and the choke guide is being called a "belly" guide. All the new terms that users plant into these systems onlly creates confusion and lessens the use of the systems as being too difficult. Same thing happened to the CCS. Why not just stick to the original terms?
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Mike Ballard
I do not think you understand what I wrote. I am not talking about differences between different guide systems, but tiny differences within the SAME guide system. I have used the KR concept on dozens of rods. If I take any KR build and substitute a slightly taller guide for the same ring guide in a lower frame, the difference is going to be tiny. I doubt you could measure it. I have not been abl
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Mike Ballard
Oh no......... that is not a tiny change. The oddball thing is a MAJOR MAJOR change which is why it results in a MAJOR difference!!! Taking one tiny guide and using it in a tiny bit taller frame is only going to make a tiny difference if at all. The Oddball set up is about taking a LARGE guide and stacking another of the exact same size LARGE guides in the 2nd position behind the butt guide. I
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Mike Ballard
The choke guide is where the line is finally choked all the way down. Putting the choke guide somewhere other than the choke point on the blank does not make any sense to me. Either way you will not see any measurable difference by using a little taller choke guide. In effect the choke point is just being moved up to the next guide and it will not make a hill of beans difference. The ring size de
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mike Ballard
If building on the spine creates better casting accuracy then it should be possible to pick up a stack of rods and find the spine simply by casting them. But I do not believe I or anyone else could tell any difference just by casting those rods. You can only find the spine by a hand flex test because in actual casting and fishing the spine does not come into play.
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mike Ballard
Let me try it this way ---- the last reduction guide and the first running guide are one and the same --- the choke guide. Beyond that point there is no more line choking. Prior to that point the line is still being choked down. Line choking stops when the guides no longer get any smaller.
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mike Ballard
Whatever the point on the guide system where there is no more line "choking" is the choke guide. As long as the guides keep getting smaller you have not reached the choke guide yet. The first running guide is therefore the choke guide by the original definition of the concept. When people keep changing the terms it only creates confusion. What Evan said is correct.
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mike Ballard
The easiest way to state this and get beyond the stuff about "where do you put the guides for casting and where for spinning" is just complicating things. Just position the rod so the stiff side is working against the fish. Thats all there is to it. And 99% of the time the stiffest and straightest axis are the same thing.
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mike Ballard
If you build on the spine either on or opposite of it, then the rod will appear crooked to anyone that sights down it with the guides either straight up or straight down. If you build on the straightest axis and put the curve up, the tip will be high and will go down to about straight when the guides, thread and finish are added. I think this is another advantage for building on the straightest a
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mike Ballard
The whole idea of using rod spine was built on the idea that it would stop rod twist and torque. Maybe you have not been around building rods as long as I have but for years and years the MAIN if not only reason that people claimed that building on the spine was better was because it would prevent rod twist. They were wrong.
Forum: rodboard
Pages: 12345...LastNext
Current Page: 1 of 21

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