Hi Herb, I'm doing well thanks, hope you're the same. I was actually able to get a VT 1102-2, being delivered tomorrow. Going to have to learn to plan ahead or order back ups with them I guess, but the blanks are worth it for sure. Four months wait is a whole fishing season! Played with the 705 blank and a reel for a while and came up with a 10 3/4 inch butt, Had a nice piece of 8 inc
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Thanks Barry but I already have the CTS blank. Big fan of Rainshadow though! My first build was a SW 1087.
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Have a blank I was thinking about building up as a gift. I'm land based so all my builds are 9-11 foot surf rods, never built a boat rod so I have a couple questions. The blank is a CTS (BS705 ) 7'0" 30-45lb : 2-6oz that I was told would make a great small tuna or large striper rod. Looking for some reference points to get me started.... Reel seat placement, was thinking 10-12 inches.
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Do I need to worry about that with heat shrink grip tubing? I was going to put some directly on the blank.
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It was a fuji DNPSD on a Century Sling Shot 1327. The heat gun didn't work so I used a hack saw and spiral cut it. Kind of cool actually, never did that before. Thanks for the replies!
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The stem of the reel/center lands at 28 inches.
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On an 11 foot, 2-5 oz surf rod I placed the reel seat 3.5 inches too high. Would the finished rod suffer if I cut the difference on the butt of the blank or do you guys recommend removing the reel seat and replacing the reel seat?
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Have a Lamiglas GSB 132 1L and the tip has a slight curve at the tip along the opposite side of the spine. How normal is this, should I worry about it or take the blank back? Thanks
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Thanks for the replies...didn't realize the blank was thicker than I expected, going with tape and will shelf this.
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I was considering using a fuji plate reel seat and was thinking about screwing it on to, or epoxying to a wooden handle. Has anyone seen this and can think of any reason why this would be a bad idea. I'm using a really nice piece of zebra wood for the handle and I don't want to cover any of it with thread.
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Have you checked out the Pacbay Channel Lock SLIM Spinning Reel Seats, I just received one yesterday in silver to go with my silver VS 150. Love the look and feel, more like a fuji 22 in outside diameter than a 20 as it is sold. They also have colors that would match your Penn.
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Yes Mark, was looking for overall height on the BUNAG's and was considering these because they look stronger than the BLAG's and BYAG's. Thank You everyone
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I checked the fuji tackle web site and couldn't find the specs on the BUNAG bridge guides. Does anyone have them? I was thinking of using them as running guides on a GSB 1081L. Thanks Luis
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Are size 8 fuji L style guides too small as running guides on a 9 ft surf rod? I could see myself using these, and then a size 10 fuji FST would match heights perfectly. I understand the purpose of using higher frame guides for the stripping guides (smaller ring=lighter weight guide) , but does the higher frame have anything to do with the running guides? I'm assuming no. Thanks
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Useing the new guide concept for this light to med plugging stick, paired to a VS 150, 20#-30# braid, I'll probably start with 30 stripper, 20, 16, Batson VS3 guides, size 8 Fuji T-ATSG intersects up to the top and a size 12 Fuji CMNST or T-MNST if I can get one. I would like to keep my intersect guides and top at the same height so the line makes a straight line from the first intersect guide
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Great, thanks, as mentioned I'll be using this as a spinning/ really light plugging stick, but I never really knew what and how a hotshot rod is/was used for?
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I'm building on a Batson HS9001, light plugging and topwater stick for Spring stripers on the beach, rivers and inlets. 1/4 oz. to 3/4 oz. lures, 10 # mono and 14 # braid. Are fly guides in between the intersect guide and tip top strong enough, or should I stay with VS or similar type guides. I was thinking size #7 guides either way. Thanks for the help Luis Morales
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The popping blank is for Spring striper schoolies in Boston Harbor, from the beach and rivers. About a 12 ounce reel, 8# mono or 14# Fireline with a light drag, 1/4 -5-8 lures; shallow swimmers (crystal minnow), storm shads, small tins, top water and lipless cranks. Actually two of my river spots only produce with small top waters, so maybe two styles of blanks would be more appropriate....???
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........but I would be cheating my self out of a learning experience by not trying a different companies blank. Looking to build a 7'6" popping blank and a 6'-6'6" ultra light this winter. I'm too unfamiliar with all the companies out there to say that I want to upgrade from the only supplier I've used(RX7), if that's even a fair statement. I'm considering CTS, Lami XMG, St. Croix SC
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My third build will be on a Batson SPG842, spin set up. Are there any things I should consider when building on glass versus graphite? Can't find anything on it in my book. Also, on my current guide layout I'm using Forecast M's for the stripping guides and Forecast F's for the intersect and out to the tip. The transition from the size 8 M to the size 6 F seems severe next to each other but
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Just finished a Rainshadow green with Gudebrod NCP Chestnut and Tan trim. Chose the colors to match the handle but thought that it looked great on the blank.
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Thanks Guys I do have Tom Kirkman's book and used the "New guide concept" for my first build. It's just that being so new at this I need an idea of what guides, reel seat size, etc..., for my initaial purchase. Since I have to do order components by mail, trial and error gets pricey. Thanks again Luis
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I've only built one other rod before, a 9 ft. surf rod, and have chosen a Batson IS720 Ultra Light as my next, 6'0" 1 piece, 2-6lb. line, 1/16-1/4 oz. lures, 0.270 butt, 4.0 tip, Moderate Action, 0.77 oz. weight. Wondering if anyone has built on this, or similar blank, and has guide size/layout recommendations, and reel seat size and placement. Don't know what reel will be used. I have t
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Uhm Yeah, I figured the fly reel seat would be to small. I just think the fly reel seat skeletons are a lot more attractive than the spin reel seat skeletons. It's a gift so I was trying to pretty it up with an all metal seat skeleton. Thanks
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I've never handled a fly rod but like the looks of the reel seats I've seen on line, especially the ones with the wooden inserts. Can I use one as a spinning reel seat for a UL / L trout rod, or are they too thin?
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I built a SW1087 earlier in the year using the New Guide Concept from the library on this site. The guides are BHVLG 30H, 20M, 16L, followed by BSVLG 12, 12, 12, 12, 12 and a 12 top. Last night I was using it to bait fish from a pier and noticed something about the line going thru the guides. With the bail line roller directly accross from the reel seat, the line touched the bottom of all the
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Looking to build a river/trout spinning rod as a gift for my father in law to be. His gear is ancient, bulky and taped up,but he won't let go of it for sentimental reasons. So I thought if I made him something he would use it, and hopefully enjoy it more. I've only built a surf rod (SW1087) with lots of help from you guys and figured you all could help me again. I need a rod and a handle s
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Hey all I decided against the 10 ft St croix rod I bought to go with my 560 due to balance issues and was looking for a rec. I don't care if it's a 1 or 2 piece, 9-10 ft, using 2-3 oz. lures, beaches, and perhaps braid. Does anyone have this reel on a rod and love the set up?
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I have a 10 ft. St. Croix Triumph surf rod I just got for an urgent replacement that is a little top heavy and could use a few inches off the butt end. Well I think I want the rear a little heavier for lures, right? So if I take a few inches off, what, where, and how can I add something to balance things out before I add another cap. Thanks All
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O.K. so .. 1. I read somewhere that heating the epoxy helped in measuring and mixing. It was flex coat lite formula rod wrapping finish, the guy at the rod building shop set me up with and said I could use for all adhering jobs, and c'mon Jeff only one huge "oops".
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