“When ordering a winding check, make sure to get the next size larger than the one that's an exact fit. If the WC is too tight, it can cause rod failure when the blank is deeply flexed“ A friend’s saltwater rod sheared off at the winding check due to the WC cutting into the fibers when the blank “ovaled” under load. I usually allow room for two layers of thread under the WC. Epoxy finish wicks
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“What do I need to not do wrong first?“ Don’t overlook the importance of understanding the functionality of each component. Reel seat - weight, uplocking or downlocking. Grip - length and comfort. Guides - sizing, number and importance of placement. No individual here can rattle off answers for this particular build. But as you develop understanding of the impacts of your components, the answe
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I build for the pleasure of fishing fly rods that I’ve had a part in the aesthetic design, and in the technical characteristics I work into the rod. Things like guide setup, grip design and especially reel seat customizations. Rarely do I have the opportunity to test cast a factory finished fiberglass rod when I’m looking to purchase a blank. This was also true when I built primarily graphite
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I met a fine gunstock maker who shared his favorite pore filling/finishing method with me. Many hand rubbed applications of Pro Custom Oil gunstock finish.
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Pro Custom Oil is a gunstock finish and is similar to Tru-Oil. A difference is that PCO lasts forever in its original container, and remains liquid for a few days when a small quantity is poured into a film canister. Why is this important? My reel seat inserts receive at least fifty wipe-on/wipe-off applications and I don’t like working out of its original container. Another difference is PCO con
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I've used a electric space heater in my workshop area over the years. For safety, I recently located a grounded timer socket that is said to be rated 15a/1875w. The face of the timer has 15min/30min/1hr/2hr/4hr/6hr timer selection buttons, plus an on/off button that I never use. Reliability has been been good so far, but since it was inexpensive I can't comment on durability.
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Needing clean and square cuts, I used a Dremel/cutoff disk to reduce the total length of a three section fiberglass fly blank by two inches - keeping all three sections equal. Where the cut doesn't need to be as clean, like when I perform a butt diameter reduction, I use a fine tooth hacksaw. Taping at the cut locations helps to minimize splintering.
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Interesting the way this thread is going. From the conflict, to suggestions that it's no big deal (almost natural) for a blank to have a long sweeping curve. Not that I haven't had to deal with minor curvatures, but this builder would prefer that blank makers I purchase from sell me a straight blank. I don't believe in compromising when it comes to straightness of a blank, regardless of company r
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Since two individuals' reputations are at stake here, send the blank to an impartial third party. That said, in-your-face insults shouldn’t be happening on this forum.
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Amen on the suggestions about practicing on inconsequential blank sections. Early on in rod building there can be many "what do I do now" moments when doing tasks for the first time. Best to go into actual rod component fitting and bonding, wrapping, and thread finishing steps - with confidence. Some things translate well from videos watched, some things don't. Like when your epoxy work
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I had a stash of these in my golf club building box. And think I used a couple during the last few years. Also available in lead.
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Consider one of Mike McFarland’s “Perpetual” blanks. Rolled using a combination of E-glass and S-glass. I built an 8’3” 7wt Perpetual for light salt use. Moderate action with plenty of power to throw a medium sink line and dumbbell eyed streamers.
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Another consideration is Winston’s IBIS (I purchased as blank in 2001) though you’d have to research whether they made the IBIS in your desired configuration.
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I own and fish a considerable number of fiberglass fly rods. Some are fished with a four weight line and some are fished with a five weight line. These two lines are mounted on two reels that I use for 90% of my fishing (and lots of lawn casting). Presenting dry flies and catching trout is usually not a problem for me. What I’m getting at is all of those rods balance at different locations, but u
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I collect Gudebrod jasper thread anytime I come across it. Works well on fiberglass blanks.
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To the right people your Gudebrod thread could be valuable.
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We happen to be discussing fishing rod blanks/rods and their static, measurable dimensions. But there are numerous other objects that have intentionally different static dimensions based upon their ultimate user. Think golf club shafts, tennis racket frames, vaulting poles, ice hockey sticks, lacrosse sticks, etc. Each of these ‘tools’ are designed with different flexibilities and likely flex poi
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Gentlemen, we're not trying to cure terrible diseases here.... Why don't we just let tis topic gradually work its way down to page twelve?
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……To the top as replies are added.
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<p>Additional use for Hand Clamp</p>
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<p>Mandrel Removed From Rings</p>
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<p>Rings Glued and Clamped</p>
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<p>Clamp Modified For Bonding Cork Rings</p>
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My home made dryer has two motors. One drives a cup which is set up to hold the butt end of a rod. The other motor is set up to hold an upper section of the rod. This drive system incorporates an all-thread coupler, into which a glue stick screwed. The glue stick is shaved into a rough taper onto which the female ferrule is mounted. The flexibility of the glue stick reduces the likelihood of the
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When I started turning a piece of yellow box burl this gnarly section materialized.
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Though I have several CA finished reel seat inserts installed on fly rods, with no problems, this insert experienced multiple fractures while in storage. My only guess is that the moisture content of the wood changed resulting in either slight shrinkage or expansion. The other side has twice this number of cracks.
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This insert is made from Chechen, and is finished using the same technique I use with CA, and others use with Tru-Oil. Successive coats are built to beyond disired diameter, then wet sanded with progressively finer sandpaper followed by wet 8000 & 12000 Micromesh. Final Step is a heavy cut car polish followed by a scratch & swirl remover.
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This winding check has two thread wraps under it. The epoxy buildup matches the level of the winding check without lapping up over it.
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Thanks go out to the board members who provided turning and finishing guidance - Curly Hard Maple.
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Some individuals requested additional information about my use of binder clips instead of wingnuts on my thread Carriage. There is a washer between the binder clip and the thread spool. The spring clip provides more than enough grip on the all thread to set your tension at any level you choose simply by placing pressure against the spool washer.
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