Using an excel spreadsheet. I'd enter the following and it spits out the distances. Length of Pattern Base Circumference Mid Circumference Tip End Circumference Repetitions
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Hi all, One thing I never understood and haven't seen any info about is how does the length of the pattern play into the taper offset distances the calculator spits out? By pattern I mean the length of the design that repeats. Say I have a pattern that's 18mm in length. Do I simply disregard this and go with the taper offset 0 and 180 calculated distances? I hope there's at least one perso
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Thanks, Mark. Size 22 and 24 just wouldn't look/feel right on this blank. Using a Century Weapon Jr and it's pretty whippy weighing in at about 4 oz. Trying to keep the weight down as much as possible. Feels weird saying that while going with an aluminum reel seat, but longetivity is a big for me.
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Hey all. Building an inshore 8 ft 6 rod with a Van Staal VR 50 to pair with it. Decided to go with the Alps Centra lock reel seat. Would the size 16 or 18 reel seat feet fit the VR 50?
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Joe Vanfossen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > David, try this. This is how I approach the guide > train to a typical bass rod. I let the static > test of the rod dictate the placement of the > guides. If you are unfamiliar with the technique > take a look at the article in the Library section > of the site. The folks here can provide s
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Bob Nguyen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > May I know what reel are you use.? > You may want to move the stripper guide out > farther or change to different reel to get 20 > inches from reel seat. > When I build my rods. The stripper guide > especially Rv6 could be as far as 26 inches or > could be at 18 inches from the reel seat. I
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Bob Nguyen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I think it is depend on the reel and the next > guide up. > The line from the reel passing thru stripper guide > to the next guide should form a straight line. > Also the line from a full spool just barely touch > the highest top of stripper guide. Thanks, Bob. The next guide up is a KW 5.5
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hey all. Quick question - working on adding guides to my 7 ft 3 casting rod. The stripper is a Fuji RV6. I've had folks tell me it should be 20 inches from the reel seat and others say 24 inches. Was wondering what your opinions are. Also, should I be measuring from the middle of the reel seat or where the line is actually coming out of the reel, or somewhere different? Thanks!
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I've always upped the tip top ring size by 0.5 when compared to the runners for spinning, but I was wondering if I should do the same for casting rods. Does it really matter if I put a 4.5 tip top to match the 4.5 runners?
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Herb Ladenheim Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If I'm reading your comment correctly - doesn't > make much sense to me to have your lighter (Ti) > guide(s) down low towards the butt - and the > heavier (SS) guides up top near the tip. You will > get so much better performance out of any blank > with light components at the top. > Herb
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What's the typical shelf life on epoxy and thread finish? This is the ProPaste and ProKote brand. They've been used before and have been stored in the basement (climate controlled) for about 2 years.
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I'm still following the KR concept layout so I'm not expecting to see any noticeable difference in performance if I go with CC guides instead of titanium. Performance is always #1, but if I'm building a custom rod I might as well make it look good! :) Thanks for chiming in everyone. Gunmetal it is! Question: For conventional rods, is the guide spacing just a matter of make sure it's spaced
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Decided to cough up some money on the titanium RV6 guide for two builds. I can't justify doing a full titanium train so I'll have to do a little mix and match. I'm fairly condident that the titanium sics with the polished ss alconite guides will work, but not sure about the black titanium. Is there a color available thay would match it? Maybe Gunsmoke?
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I would place the stripper about 20” in front of > the reel. For the guides I would use KW10, KW5.5, > KB5 (2 or 3), and KT5 (5 or 6). This would be the > recommendation given by Fuji for a KR concept. If > you want to spend more for the guides then you can > use the RV6 for the stripper follow
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I bought 3 blanks on September 12. To date, I have still not received them. I've tried calling customer service multiple times and no one ever picks up. It took me three follow up emails to get a response, which was along the lines of "we'll have it sent as soon as possible". This was three weeks ago. It feels like I'm being ghosted again. Anyone have similar experiences? I'm tem
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Thanks everyone. I got my answer!
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As the title states this will be my first conventional rod build. I'm finding myself second guessing what guide setup I should use. Blank Specs: NFC IM Mag Bass, 7ft, Mag Heavy, MF - Reel: Okuma Citrix NFC IM Mag Bass, 7ft, Med H, F - Reel: Shimano Curado Mudhole sells a Fuji Guide Kit and I was wondering if this would be the way to go for both rods, or if there's other more optimal set
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I'm building a rod as a birthday present for bro. He wants a 8 - 8.5 ft rod to use on the surf, jettys, piers. The target fish is stripers, blues, and everything in between. The problem is, it needs to be a 2 piece. I'm having difficulties locating one. Any recommendations is welcome! Thanks.
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Hmmm. That's a great point. Thanks, Tom.
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Yeah. I just discovered taper offset spacing. I think I'm good now. Thanks.
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I'm pretty much a newbie when it comes to butt wraps. I've only done chevron and diamond wraps, both open, and was thinking about maybe stepping my game up a bit. What's the basic principle behind creating a closed cross wrap as opposed to an open wrap when using the same pattern?
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Both the KR Concept and Microwave system are proven winners. Many have commented on the versatility of the KR concept guides, but the Microwaves also offer versatility in a different respect. You can use different reels and it won't affect the performance as much as a KR guide train which is built around a specific reel.
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I was under the impression metallics don't need CP. I use pro wrap metallics on my rod butts and they all turned out just fine.
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Everyone has suggested some great blanks. You may want to check out the carbon 4s from Rodgeeks. They are very similar to the SCIVs offered from St. Croix and for an extra $15 you can choose from a variety of colors.
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It seems like Fuji knows what they're doing! Now if they only offered the RVs with CC frames. I'm sure they'll pop up in the near future. Thanks for the feedback, Norm.
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herb canter Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Someone said Fuji's thought process on this is > that most who spend the extra $$ on titanium > frames would not want the Alconite ring material > and would prefer SIC which i think is completely > wrong . Not only is SIC less popular than > Alconite but everything i have seen has people > s
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > David, I think a 3 guide reduction train would be > much better than a 2 guide reduction train. I > would try RV20: RV16, and KW10M for the reduction > train to your KW 8 runners. Titanium framed guides > with Alconite rings have been discontinued by > Fuji. > Norm Thanks, Norm. Thi
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Thanks, Don. I just sent you an email. David
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After having built 4 rods for family members I'm finally treating myself to one. The blank: 9'2" Black Hole Striper. The reel: Van Staal VR150 with 20 lb braid. I've built a KR concept rod before, but never with a double footed RV guide. According to the Fuji catalogue the suggested reduction train for a medium duty outfit is RV > KW-M > KB > KT. Does this mean there are on
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