<p>I used adhesive size , a glue for gold foil, and it held the first layer nicely on the tapers. Tried to do overwrap without LS epoxy over first layer. Did not work to well</p>
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<p>Got the new decals in and refinished with the LS Supreme. I cannot see where it was cut into. It came out nice.</p>
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<p>My first reel seat. Double dyed. This is not polished yet.</p>
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<p>I took this photo with a 127mm telescope and ccd camera. It is multiple 20 min exposures with Ha- OIII- and SII filters. I printed to a waterslide decal. I have 2 thick layers of LSSupreme with holo flakes, then the decal and then 3 more layers with holo flakes on top. So far looking good I think now to figure out some thread wraps to enhance. </p> &am
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Thanks. I have a 20 year old pac-bay power wrapper. I just took out the posts on the thread carriage and replaced with bolts washers and springs. I took off the tensioning device so now the spool is tensioned. Working great so far. Thanks again
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The last couple of times I have used metallic thread on a wrap longer than 1" I have a section or 2 or 3 or 4 that are silver. The threads have been green and 2 different blue ones and 2 different gold ones. The silver in the wrap is small sometimes a 1/2 turn of the rod up to 1 1/2 turns on the rod. The only thing I can think is the tension is too tight and stripping the color off the th
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Got the epoxy on and with ncp thread when it disappears the scale effect is almost gone. I am going to let it dry and then remove it and do again and use CP. Before I applied the LS it really looked awesome.
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I did one today on a casting rod I am building It ha a larger but section, the section I wrapped is 15mm to 13mm and 7" long for the dragon scales. I did a 1/4" trim with metallic. The rod is dk dk blue. For the scales I used D size silver metallic. For the overwrap I used A size Cobolt. I am hoping when I put the LS Supreme on the Silver metallic will barely show through the Cobolt.
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Would a Dragon scale wrap using metallic D size thread for diamonds and using non cp A size thread for the overwrap still show the scales detail? Or does the top layer need to be cp thread to see the scales? Thanks Rick
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Found something today that is giving me a perfect looking wrap and tension. I have the Pac Bay powerwrapper. On the sliding thread tray there are 4 metal posts sticking up to put spools on. There is a plastic open loop before and one after the screw down tension device to run thread through. Today I did one loop around an empty spool holder post before going through everything else and it gave m
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When putting down gold foil for decorative butt section I have been having a problem a couple times of the glue being used reacting with epoxy and getting major fisheyes. If I was to put a layer of color protector over the foil before applying the epoxy do you think it would seal it and allow the LS to bond properly? Thanks Rick
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Thats what I am trying to do. I have a 1" gold metallic wrap on each side for a candy apple wrap. I will over wrap the gold metallic with Garnet thread and leave 3-4 threads of the gold showing on each end. So in theory I could hold the horizontal thread under at least 3/4" of the gold metallic to try and keep it tight. What problems did you encounter to not keep the thread straight?
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Has any one ever put a horizontal thread down the length of the butt in between 2 decorative wraps. I was thinking of a 2 metallic threads, one on top of and the other under a logo decal. The horizontal threads would go under metallic thread on the decorative wraps so the ends would be hidden. Rick
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Its been about 10 years since I last built and wrapped rods. I have lately done 3 more and noticed when I bury the tag ends using a loop of thread and pulling under 4-5 threads at the end of the wrap that the thread is pretty pronounced and shows a bump. Looking at my older rods I do not see these bumps in the thread wraps. Even at the beginning of the wrap where I bury the tag end I see the bump
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I am trying to do a Candy apple effect wrap on a wine glass to match a rod. I was having trouble getting the first layer to stay where I put it. It is tough with the taper of the wine glass stem. I used adhesive size, which is a glue for gold foil, and it held the first layer nicely on the tapers. Then I tried to do the Garnet overwrap over the metallic gold without LS epoxy over first layer. Did
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Looked at the wraps outside. The gold is the most see through of the group as is inside but the Old gold is a little darker and a little more elegant looking I think in the sunlight so as of now I will go with, Garnet no cp over the old gold. I am going to try the Garnet over the silver tomorrow but I think Old gold metallic/Garnet is the look.I will start the rod tomorrow and I also ordered a co
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I've been on it everyday with no problems.
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Well I got home and I do not have any other red thread. Only the Garnet. So I did a top layer over the gold, copper and old gold. I put on a thin layer of LS and the gold is the brightest effect. The old gold second and the copper the least amount of color. It is still inside so I have not seen it in sunlight yet. That could change everything. I only covered half of the mettalics so I can order a
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Matthew Paul Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > what is it your trying to achieve ? Subtile and Elegance to compliment the red flame gold foil.
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I wrapped a test piece yesterday with -Gold,-Old Gold and-Copper metallic threads and put a coat of LS supreme. Today when I get home I am going to wrap the red thread. I have Garnet which I plan on using. I may have a couple other shades of red. Is there a big difference in the affect in the different red colors for the top? Is it worth doing a couple different reds or will the different metall
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I got the decals replaced and finished with the LS Supreme and cannot see where the cut was made. Thanks for the all advice and confidence. Decals were from "The Decal Connection". They were awesome too!
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I just did a second one with green dye and got some tin ca glue and got both coated and sealed. First coating dried and a second coat applied. I will let sit over night and buff to a high gloss tomorrow.
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Thanks Randy. It is a relatively easy process if you have the tools and patience. Roger pretty much said it well on what to do with some good links for supplies. I used a pen mandrel and bushings I had to hold the blank in place. I turned it down and checked with calipers and sanded and fitted until I liked it. Give it a try and have some fun.
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I turned my first reel seat today. It is going to be awesome tomorrow after the dye is dry and it is buffed to a full sheen. It is a maple burl piece I had from when I had my woodworking store. 15 years ago! I did a double dye with dk mission brown and then sanded off and did Early am. maple for top. I am trying to match a flamed goldleaf sheet that has a lot of red and didnt think it had enou
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Here is how I started.
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