thank you sir
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hey guys, i have freind that that just loves his 2wt. , 9' fly rod, for panfish. he was saying that he can't find this blank anywhere. he would like to build another one. i told him i have some guys that would probably know where to purchase one. i would appreciate any help, thx! Dave
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when using CP, your making a shell over the thread. now the epoxy can't penetrate the thread or rod. this just doesn't seem like a good way of building a rod. i need to be educated.... thx
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to remove foam if need be. take the head off a wood screw and mount it at the end of a small wood dowl. then slide the dowl into the rod blank until it reaches the foam. that make a few turns with the dowl and pull the foam plug out.
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i stopped using little reels. i like a 3000-3500 size much better. even when using 4lb. line. brings the line in faster with less revolutions, and line comes off bigger spools better. which cast further. dave
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hey thanks guys. thats what i was looking for, the technical info on this yellowing. going on dark thread, so i'll be good then. just thought i better ask first. or i should have just done a test. thx again for your help, dave
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so i'm guessing this hardner was clear when new? if i apply this hardner now, will it have this yellow tint to it right now on the rod ?
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hey guys, i have 2oz. bottles of Pro Kote medium thread epoxy. i used some last winter on a rod. it's been seal and at room temp. i see the color of the hardener is the color of apple juice. i don't remember if it was that color before, i'm concerned about using it know. anyone know if this the original color, or should it be clear ? thx dave
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Donald & Tom, on long applications, like over decals. how do you apply your epoxy. do you use perpendicular application while turning the rod, or do you apply it lengthwise ? or can you use both ? thx,
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i did put a little more on then what i was doing. that seem to give it a little body so it could move and level out. just guessing here though...
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i nailed it! thanks to all your help. warmed up my epoxy bottles in some warm water. mixed it slow, no bubbles. warmed up my tin foil a little before i pour epoxy in. while turning about 30rpm, i applyed a thin coat once across my span, and never touched it again. rotated by hand, 180 degress like Donald suggested, and put on dryer. looks really good. i never did get any sags. does
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thanks guys, i block sanded first with 600grit, then with 1500. it's just a dull finish. maybe i shouldn't have said scratches, but thats what it really is... the epoxy has covered it great in the past. surface is dead smooth now. my epoxy doesn't seem to be leveling off. what it looks like after i apply it with brush, is what i get. i apply it really thin. i have tried a heat gun
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i have a area over some decals that i can't get smooth with epoxy. i have it block sanded smooth now. instead of trying epoxy again, is there another product i could spray or brush on, that would hide the light scratches and make it glossy ? just seeing if there's another option, other then epoxy. thanks guys, thx
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thx! i see i put my epoxy on way to thin. mine never levels out. maybe because there's not enough epoxy to level it out ??? Jeremiah Petrowski Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I think this is probably the video. > >
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Lynn Behler Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Make you watch the video Donald mentioned! Lynn couldn't find that video.
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hey roger, thanks for the info. could i put a satin varnish over my sanded epoxy ? roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You can use the equivalent of corn starch to mix > with the finish and give you a matt finish. > > Basically, if you look at a new can of flat - > varnish - you will find a layer of matting agent > lyin
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thx Donald, i'll look at that for sure. i really would like to have the epoxy finish. i bugs the heck out of me that i can't get it. thought i better look into other options i looked, and didn't see any of his videos showing this. Donald La Mar Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > David > > If you have not totally giver up on epoxy, search &g
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hi, i have about a 7'' long section in front of my reel seat, that has two decals end to end. i just can't get a epoxy finish over these that i'm happy with, after 4 tries. i just block sanded it smooth again, and i sorta like the matte finish i now how over the decals, or maybe i can just live with it, since i have no luck with the epoxy. *can i just leave it like this, or is there a way
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William Neil Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I am just learning to build rods. when you say low > heat, what is your heat source ? heat gun. as far as how hot. i can keep my hand, right in front of gun... then i'm guessing its not to hot to boil the epoxy.
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thank for the great info. i block sande with 1500 grit. put it on a tad thicker and put some low heat to it, it looks like glass now.
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my first coat was over the decal. no issues with the decal. i just can't get this epoxy to level out perfect. i still haven't applied the 2nd coat. going to do some light sanding, then apply another coat. i was waitig to see what help i got here first. room i'm applying it, is around 65 degrees. maybe i need to run some low heat from my heat gun on it to get it to flow out ? plus i'mput
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i did two test spots on a old rod. i brushed one on going lengthwise, and the other perpendicular, looked great sitting there. put it on the dryer 12 hrs, and it's still has a few flawes. from all the videos i've watched, i'm putting it on to thin i think. doesn't look that hard to do....
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i was afraid if i just put another layer on, it would just build up thickness & still have the ridges. or will it just fill in the low spots ? i'll look at it really close with magnifing glass and make sure i only it the tops. i do this while spinning it right? thx so much for help. this is the last step.
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hi, i applied a light cote of ProKote over my decal area, about 6''. i have slight ridges perpendicular to rod, over this area now. it's cured. in the morning, i was going to block sand it with real fine sandpaper just to knock off the high spots, then apply another thin coat. with a better appling method this time. i'm i on the right track with the sanding ? thx,
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yeah, i put as little on as possible. i figure i can always put more on.... i like the idea of wetting it out good, then removing any access.
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sounds like a good plan bill, i'll give that a try, thx. bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you are putting on very thin coats and still > did not get coverage > WET it down on the first coat -- Then let it turn > If you think there is too much -- stop the turner > - let excess drip and take the drips off with the > brus
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thanks alot guys. that saved me from doing a test and waiting to see, it wasn't going to look right. i'll put a thin 3rd coat on.
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hi, i have two thin coats of ProKote on guides/thread, which is all i really want. they look great, except for just a few really small thin spots on a couple of the guide/threads. can i apply a small amount of epoxy just to cover the thin spots, and leave the rod sit in that postion until it cures, will it flow even into these spots ? anyone ever done this ? thx,
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first, thank you guys for all your very detailed post. you guys are good! my bigger trim bands are all south of the stripper guide. thought i better just do the guides first. seriously, i was just to scared to put epoxy over my decals first. i can remove guides.... :-) i was in business building high end composite r/c sailplanes for many yrs, and have mixed a ton of epoxy, so i feel i did
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