I emailed pac bay about this, and to summarize, I was told the Arctos are true to weight, but still fast. I built an 908 quickline and it is very fast and light. I use it with a 280gr streamer max short and a 325gr airflo 40 plus and the rod can definitely throw line. Not nice to cast up close though. I built it with rec single foots with a fuji titanium stripper and its stupid light.
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Seen a few comments about this blank, was wondering if anyone else has built it and had thoughts on it. I've built the quickline in 5, 7, and 8, and while I like the blanks they are certainly fast. Listed weights seem a bit heavier than quickline but the blanks are also 3" longer. I need to build a 10' 6wt for myself and I need to build another 8 so if I could get some more feedback on this
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To clarify, the 10 is for pike and 12 is for musky. I don't think 12 is overkill for musky flies nor the 10 being too much stick after using both a 9 and a 10 for pike. I have a lot of glass rods but I really would not want them for all day casting in those sizes. Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Have used popping rod blanks, steelhead a
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Looking to make a short 10 weight and 12 wt for fishing from pike and musky from the boat. I would like one piece blanks, and if anyone has input on rod length, I'm guessing somewhere between 7'6" and 8". I've seen people suggest dividing the rod weight by 16 to get the oz lure weight (so a 12 wt would be a 3/4 lure blank). There seems to be a ton of different blank types and for exa
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For those putting in recesses for your reel seat hood on the foam core/carbon fiber grips, are you drilling out the recess before putting the carbon fiber on, or after? I am assuming to do it before, and put the zip tie for the sleeve pushed up within the recess for a flush finish. Also, what grit should I sand to before the sleeve? I'm at 500 now, riley rods says to go all the way to superfi
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I've recently used tru oil on a cork grip, and buffed it to a semi gloss finish, and like the results. I personally don't find glossy grips slippery at all.
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Pac bay only has preshaped grips, I'm looking for straight foam cores to turn myself.
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Jerry Driggers Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > How many are you wanting? Have three builds on deck (7" grips with ~1" fighting butt) but I would take anything I could get at the moment that will build a 7" grip and 1" butt.
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After waiting for months for my foam core order from rileyrods I finally gave up. Still really want to build a foam core/carbon sleeve grip. Anyone know of a source for foam cores that is not the 18# density stuff from alps? Would prefer .25" bore, .375" is a hair big for my fly blanks but if that's all I can find I may use it.
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Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I many times use white silk thread and regular > viscosity epoxy, thinned to an almost water > consistency with DNA for the first coat. Allow to > cure for at least 24 hours then coat with regular > epoxy. Wraps completely disappear! > > I have done this on Bamboo and colored graphite >
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Actually, warm varnish is the standard for making > transparent wraps with silk. It can be done with > epoxy but requires thinning and most often with > denatured alcohol rather than epoxy so that the > solvent doesn't evaporate too quickly, before the > epoxy has time to penetrate entirely. >
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I know lite epoxy is the standard for doing transparent wraps with silk, but I was wondering if anyone has used regular threadmaster of flex coat to do transparent wraps. Thinning 1:1:1, I assume.
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I have a rodgeeks 908-4 blank on hand, and the the rodgeek/st croix spacing charts show the guides being placed below the ferrule intersection, on the male ferrule, on both the first and section intersection from the tip. However, if you look at st croixs rods, they (and most other manufacturers) place their guide on the end of the female ferrule, where your ferrule wrap would be. Was just wo
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Building this blank now and am using pac bay cp purple. I can take a picture if you want but once epoxy is on it, it's practically the same color.
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Donart (site sponsor) has the quickline blanks for cheaper than I've seen anywhere else. Never had my hands on an MHX but that's a highly reviewed blank also. Really comes down to your preference on color and how many pennies you want to save.
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I use a dedicated wood lathe now after previously using a set up like the flexcoat one. Couldn't be happier with using a real lathe. Harbor freight lathes are cheap and are the same origin as grizzly/etc.
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Tom, do you have a recommendation for the plug for a fighting butt after the rod is built? I'm thinking of either cutting a plug out either the foam or rubberized cork, covering the plug in glass and finishing it like the rest of the handle, and epoxying it in the hole.
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Pretty much decided on doing two foam core grips with colored fiberglass sleeves and have a few questions. Does color of the foam core matter when colored fiberglass sleeves are used? More specifically, do the colored sleeves have any transparency? What epoxies have people used? Searching on the net I see many 2:1 ratio epoxies advertised for carborn fiber wetting, some much cheaper than o
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Have you tried asking Rodgeeks customer service? Yes.
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Has anyone gotten around to getting CCS numbers for the carbon 4 fly blanks from rod geeks? I've seen some numbers for the st croix SCIV/II but the numbers for the same model seem to vary greatly depending on who did the report. Thanks.
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I was wondering if anyone knew of a source of unpainted fly rod blanks. I am doing a few custom color projects with a local painter, and after just stripping a rod with citristrip, I wouldn't mind being able to just buy one unpainted to begin with. I know unpainted blanks exist in other applications but I can't find any fly blanks. Thanks.
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My main question is does anyone know of a winding check/trim band that will have an ID that will meet the blank, but have an OD that will be wide enough to meet appropriately with the reel seat hardware. I have a pac bay A7 hardware set on hand, and a 9mm winding check will fit inside the hardware. Won't work to say the least.
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Kicking around the idea of doing a skeleton reel seat on a fly rod build and was trying to find out some info on how to go about it. First, I need to find some options on hardware, and second, I need to find winding checks to hide the gaps. The hardest part I think will be finding winding checks that will have a large enough outer diameter but tapers down to a small enough OD to meet the blank.
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Considering using minimas on two fly rods being built, but can't find any concrete suggestions on sizing. Building a generic fast 5 weight for general dry and bobber work, and an 8 weight that will be casting heavy shooting heads for streamers. Suggestions for both would be much appreciated, thanks.
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I have been having a problem with contamination on my wraps, sometimes during the first wrap, often on the second. I assume this is from the oils in my hands, from razoring off/sanding the odd tag end, etc. Often, the craters start appearing, ruining all of my work. So, what is the best product to remove the oils that will cause issues with my finish, but not degrade a previous coat of epoxy.
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I've read some brief mentions about having to size up when using single foot guides on a fly rod versus snake guides, is there a set number of sizes one should size up? Thanks.
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Does anyone have any recommendations that they would suggest over the MHX for a fast action 5 wt 9' rod? Blank price $150 or less.
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As the title suggests, I need some suggestions for 1.5"x.5"x.25" bore rubberized cork rings for a few spey builds I'm doing. I can't seem to find anything. Thanks in advance.
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After setting up the drill press, drilling a 1 1/4" hole for my ring to sit in with a forstner bit, putting the cork ring in said hole, and putting a 1 inch forstner bit to drill the recess for my hood, for the life of me I can not get the hole centered. Since the rings are just a hair bigger than 1 1/4, I have removed the board that is holding my rings, dremeling with a sanding drum just
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here are the specs on the fasco 110 epoxy. All the retail pages I find on it say 10-15 minute potlife, but these sheets say thats if you mix the entire quart, and that pot life for a "thin layer" will be 45 minute, and then on the second sheet a pound will be 60 minutes.
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