Chris, what you're saying in reference is a bit puzzling to me, because it certainly hasn't been my experience. Here is what I've come to believe based on the reels I've used. All Shimano reels. I first tried fluorocarbon on a 2000 Symetre. This was back in the days they were first introducing fluorocarbon for use as a main line. Prior to that it was leader material. It was a complete fail on t
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4.5 KT, stainless steel frame, Alconite ring. .103 grams. 4.5 KT titanium frame, Torzite ring. .059 grams. Definitely not much of a difference, but let's not forget ....... guides are leveraged weight. Their weight is multiplied by their distance from the fulcrum. Any difference in weight is multiplied by its' distance from the fulcrum as well. That being the reel seat. I can tell yo
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John, thank you for taking the time to post those links. I truly appreciate you taking the time to do that. I took a look at both of them, and the Airity is a beautiful reel. Surprisingly shallow spool from the way it looks in the pictures. It must have a large ID where the line is stored, which if I were in the market for another spinning reel, I would research more. The larger the diameter the
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John, yes .... that is the angle I am talking about. I pulled up the page for the Exist to see if I could see what you're talking about. Boy, it sure does look like it has a high degree of up sweep. The reel I'm talking about here is a Shimano Sahara. No where near the reel that the Exist is. It's actually one of Shimano's lower priced reels. I don't know that it has the up sweep the Exist has, b
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Les, the 1 degree change in angle isn't responsible for the 18% increase in the length of the hypotenuse. The difference in the distance between where the line comes to the blank in a standard KR set up, and where the line comes down to the blank in a high choke guide set up, is. The base line grew in length, so the length of the hypotenuse is going to grow accordingly. If the base line remai
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Les, butt guide to rod tip, 52.25". Using the .42 multiplier gives a butt to high choke guide measurement of 21.945". The standard KR set up calls for the choke guide to be 22" from the butt guide. On my rod. it's 22.25". Using the .45 multiplier, the choke guide would be at 23.512" from the butt guide. As I said in an earlier post, I wanted to keep the high choke guide p
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Chris, I'm not sure, but I think Les may have been referencing what I quoted from the library article on NGC, when he mentioned the thinking that up sweep doesn't play a factor in casting performance. I definitely agree with you that line choice has to be foremost in your mind when dealing with spinning gear. And thank you for the compliments by the way. I truly appreciate them. And you're ri
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Les, no I hadn't read that article, but I just did. Thank you very much for supplying and suggesting that link. Definitely an interesting read, and it brings something that I questioned when I read the NGC article in the library. That being, "Reel upsweep angle isn’t really an issue in casting, however, as reels don’t “shoot” line like a rifle shoots a bullet." After reading that I tho
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Norman, thank you, and yes ..... distance from rod tip to butt guide was part of the equation. It was bugging me last night after I had posted it was rod length as part of the equation, so I went back through some of the older threads where the discussion was about the high choke guide option. There is was !!! Butt guide to rod tip ..... duh me lol Part of my reasoning to try and keep the hi
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Brent, okay, gotcha. Sorry for the confusion on my part. People have different names for some things, and I just wanted to be sure. It's like counting from 0 to 100. Is zero the first number, or is 1 the first number. For me, zero is the butt guide, and the next guide in line is the first reduction train guide. I know that can be confusing, which is why when I mention a specific reduction guide
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Brent, just making sure I'm interpreting what you're saying correctly on my end. When you say 1st and second guides, are you calling the 1st guide, your butt guide? Or when you say 1st guide, are you referring to your first reduction guide? (Second guide in the line) The way I am reading what you're saying is, that you're following the KR software to a tee? The same three guide sizes the softw
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The 3 + 1 is not even close to a cone of flight guide train. It's more of an NGC with smaller ringed reduction guides. As far as the 3 +1 having the same cone angle as a standard KR set up, I'd have to disagree. In the 3 +1, you're increasing the height of of the second reduction guide, (the 3rd guide in line) as well as the choke guide. You've now pushed the point of where the line comes to
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Fuji KL - 6L Height: 12.2 mm. Fuji KB 5.5 Height: 7.3 mm. That height difference doesn't result in a more shallow line angle as it enters that guide? And the guide that is 4.9 mm shorter being pushed 4.187" further down the blank isn't going to change the angle of the line as the line enters that guide? Or are those combined factors a doesn't amount to a hill of beans kind of thi
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What makes this FB person think it's likely to break? The fact that it's wood? Or did you mention something to him that you aren't posting here? Like it has a split in it or something? As far as drilling it out to reinforce it with an old rod blank or the like. No doubts you could, but do you really need to? Has the grip somehow been damaged to where you wouldn't feel safe using it?
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I got out to the local lake and did some casting from shore with the rod I built using the high belly guide option, and a rod I built using a standard KR concept set up, on which the choke guide is a KB. The rod using the high choke guide option is built on an MB 724 X ray blank, using a guide train of KL 20H, KL 10H, KL 7M, KL 6L, KB 5.5, followed by 6, KT 5's. The rod using the standard
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I have a build on an MB 725 C6O2 blank on the dryer right now. Casting rod, conventionally wrapped, using Fuji guides. It appears the Atlas guides are modeled after the Fuji's so my spacing would at least give you the starting point you're looking for. The guides I used are Fuji T2's. Butt guide KW 10, second guide up. KW 5.5, three KB 5's, and 7 KT 5's. 12 guides total, plus the tip top. The
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The Alps MVT is as Spencer described having fins inside the thread barrel portion that are sized to the I.D. of the reel seat you order. As far as the difficulties in fitting the reel seat to the blank being discussed here ........ there were a few of us that questioned these very things in the forum thread introducing them. No real answers on how to handle it came from that thread, so this
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LOL Lynn .... actually, Sexy Shad. And I have it in 3.5", 4.5" and 5.5" in TW Sunfish Magic. This is the first year I'm trying the 3.5s as a Ned rig bait. Got a good feeling about them for that. And the first year I'll be trying the 5.5 as a Fluke style bait. Been using the 4.5s for a chatterbait trailer for about a year. Pretty nice baits. As far as my test casting with my new
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Well I finally got my spinning rod build on an SB 724 X ray blank done. Well .... wrapped and on the rod dryer anyway. lol Clearly since it's still drying I haven't had a chance to take it out and cast with it, but I figured I'd share the guide spacing I'm using. I'm using the KR concept with the high choke guide option Guides are Fuji T2s in sizes KL-20H, KL 10KH, KL 7M, KL 6L. The 6L is t
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It sounds as if you may be looking for a tarnished look? I wonder if some kind of etching cream or liquid would work? I just did a quick Google search for "getting a tarnished look on new metal" Soaking in vinegar seemed to be the most common response, Followed by bleach, and saltwater. Undoubted ably a slower process than some kind of abrasive, but may be more of what you're looki
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It has to do with the percentage of solvents in the epoxy that won't evaporate. 100% solids epoxy doesn't have any solvent in it that could evaporate while curing.
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Yeah, I wouldn't be coating the whole thing in epoxy. Not only will it add weight, with it being an ultra light powered rod, it will more than likely severely affect the characteristics of the rod itself. Like Norman said, either leave it alone, or mask off the guides n such, and sand the blank to remove the resin ridges. Like Norman said, it's not difficult to do. I've sanded smooth several
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Les, you are absolutely right. I tired using the American Tackle high frame guides in the same sizes the KR software calls out for the specific rod, reel, and line size I would be using, and had difficulty with achieving bullseyes with the guides, because the guides were of different heights than the Fuji KL-H guides of the same size. I have used Pac Bay Minima match guides in a KR concept gu
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Definitely some strange logic being applied in some of the posts in this thread. Wiping off excessive finish takes longer than applying 3 thin coats? That's head scratching. Anyhow ...... for those that feel finish problems they're having, or may have had in the past, are a problem with incorrect finish mixtures? What kind of finish are you using? I ask because I've used three different br
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LOL ...... Les, you my friend give me way too much credit LOL But I appreciate your comments. And the offer to write me a note. LOL Besides being swamped at work, I'm going to save my "I'm feeling crappie today" call offs for days I could hit the lake. Our weather isn't completely cooperating in that respect just yet. But soon !! I still haven't gotten that SB 724 build I'm using t
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Michael, clean up isn't necessary if you're applying finish over the already finished wraps on an old used fishing rod? It would be silly not to clean the rod in that situation. As far as not using alcohol to clean a rod and then applying finish over it. I certainly won't say that doing so has never caused anyone any problems, but it's never caused me any problems. I use isopropyl alcohol al
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Les ...... I see you've been having some fun my friend. lol So you're in Dorthy land. Nice. I actually came in here at halftime of the Gonzaga v Kansas March Madness game, just to pass some time. Co- inky dink? Maybe. lol I think you're definitely going to find that the 20H guide set is going to work better with the straight fluorocarbon line. As far as you messing with the size fish you ar
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Les, nice write up. I am really glad to read that it's working out as you had hoped. Of course, I imagine you kind of knew that it would. As I'm not a braid kind of guy, I look forward to you reporting how it handles straight 10# fluorocarbon. Personally, I've had the rod I'm building using the 3 + 1 set up, sitting in my wrapper for about two weeks/ Guides on and in position. Ready to start wrap
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The link may be getting removed because it's a link that allows the purchase of the rod. If the site isn't a sponsor of this board, it would be very understandable that such a link would be removed. Pretty much like when Barney Fife told those two farmers selling produce by the road, that they had to move along because their business was cutting in on the local merchants business. Anyhow,
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All great advice given, I really don't go as far as some. I use a coping saw and cut by hand with the blank laying on a piece of 2 x 4. The first blank I cut I wrapped with masking tape, but I haven't done that since, and I've had no problem with splintering And since I am sawing slowly by hand, I don't worry about eye protection, or a dust mask. They're great ideas, but sawing by hand I just do
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