Just saw Gary Gillette from Mud Hole, All set
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Hello Everyone, Ok I have a spin rod I want replace the guides, it has all single foot guides so how do I measure the old guides to get replacements ? Inside ring insert dia.? I've been building all fly rods now need to back to square one. Thanks, Dave
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Hi Jack, What did you use for a heat source ? I build only fly rods an have replaced many fly rod guides using heat to soften the old finish coat. Just wrap on the new guide as it was you'll be fine. Dave
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Thanks everyone for the info. I'm going to guess that a "thin" coat is one where you can see thread lines after dry. Roger thanks I should have no problem putting one together ( I do carry a master electrician license in 3 states). Just this one post and I feel so much smarter now. I've got a headache I need a drink....
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I am applying with a brush, rotation is 18 rpms. Apply finish and just hold brush against guide to spread.I leveled the turner base prior to coating.( could the rod supports not be level at the butt end?) I also noticed that the snakes are fine it's only on the strippers. It's a 13'3" two handed spey rod.
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I'm using the Pro Kote finish and I notice that its collecting on the center of the wraps ( at the guide foot area) and not spreading to the end of the wrap where it meets the rod. This is my second coat , any thoughts?? Thanks
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Some mfgs are putting size 25 as first strippers. Makes no sense to me maybe they have a large overstock of them. Dave
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I agree with Randolph, Why not use the same stuff you just took off, It's the rite color. Dave
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Birchwood Casey make a sealer and a oil. The oil is gunstock oil which is fine but it will darken the cork just a bit, and the more coats you put on the thicker the oil and slicker the grip will get. I found my customers don't like a slick grip. The sealer will protect the cork and it will change the color just a tad but not as dark as the oil. I find that 2 coats of the sealer works great and i
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I have done seat repairs on fly rods from a well known high end rod company. Only to be surprised that they used the same mesh tape and what had happened is the epoxy had worked its way down through the mesh when the seat was installed. Did it hold yea, but not for long after much use. So my advice don't use it go with a graphite arbor or make your own with a non porous material. Dave East
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Go with the Batson Rainshadow Eternity2. With bones your going to want to just pick up an cast no false casting cause your going to spook the fish.
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Look for archival pens, they come in different sizes BUT you can only get in black
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Aftco is the only 2 part finish that the manufacture states you can use a scale to measure with. It works I do it all the time.
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Rogers correct He will not be happy with that set up. Build 2 rods or decide which one to build. I've seen that happen Dave, East bay Custom Fly Rods
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Just go with 10 guides total plus the tip top and start with a 16 stripper. When to the tip don't go any smaller than a 4. Even if he's only going to be "pitching" with the rod still set it up to cast a standard fly line. The pitching does not matter cause you can do that with 5 guides on the rod. Just set it up to work for what it was designed to do. Most fly rodders will use a weight
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Wrap trim band first then continue with an endless wrap.
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Also if you are using any type of fluorescent lighting, switch your lamps to 6500K T8 lamps. You may need to change out the ballast in the fixture to a T8 if not already. These are the lamps that are used in automotive spray booths they also give a natural bright light. Dave
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Get an Ott light they make desk top models and clamp type. Plus it gives a natural light spectrum which is nice to see what the real color is of the thread you are wrapping. LED lights have very different kelvin light levels depending on the manufacturer. Dave
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Show Tom a close up photo , I bet he can give real good idea how the break was done.
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Ok, I know this is not rod related but I'm just getting the message out. I'm a master electrician by trade licensed in 3 states. I read the topic about using heat lamps for drying purpose. I have run across more than twice some red heat lamp bulbs that when turned on filling with smoke then bursting. So be careful using them. Also there has been a compact fluorescent bulb being sold under the bra
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Nice job Barry. Looks like you have a great start to build on.
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I always have my money before they get the rod. You should have told him to go get the correct amount then return for the rod. I call my customers and let them know the repair is complete and the charge is X amount so there is no excuse for them to not have the correct amount. If it's a person I have not dealt with and they want write a check I tell them no rod until check clears. Then most of th
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Also one of the Rod Builders volumes describes and shows various breaks and how to determine how the break was made.
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Just to lighten things up......... How about a tail light warranty on everything ? yea that'll fix them.
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Well the build i'm doing now I'm not going to CP it. Let's see what happens. I CP all my wraps so this will be a new experiment.
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The brand is Flex Coat 2 coats overnight drying. No thinning of CP is being done. I feel that I'm packing quite well. Yes a rust colored thread over a very dark blank. Yes the finish is going thru the threads to the blank leaving dark spots in that area. I am puzzled due to that this is the first time this has happened for me. Where is that fine line between to much thread tension and not enough
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Ok, Why does the finish coat bleed thru to rod even when using CP ?
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Wouldn't be my first choice. To much of sudden transition from stripper to snake.
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TFO Deer Creek Switch
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Make sure you find straight axis to start. I don't know if you have built a switch so get all your first stuff done first. ie; grip, tip, wrap ferrules. Then I hold rod horizontal and wiggle rod side to side (letting the rod flex on its own between 2 fingers) to find the point where the tip flex and butt section flex intersect. You can find this by placing a piece of tape like a flag on the point
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