<p>Christmas Gifts</p>
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Sample Classic twist thread.
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Over all shot of the break. 6 inches from ferrule, 1.75 inches from guide foot.6.9 mm at break, 7.78 mm at the ferrule.
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Showing a repair to an ultalight. The internal fix has yet to be glued in. I will be overwrapping the repair area.
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Dragon Scale with Epoxy. 1st Dragon Scale. Second large epoxy area.
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Optical chevron on .475" dia blank. First decorative wrap. First large expanse of epoxy. I thought I had packed this better :( Looks awesome at 10 inches :)
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First decorative wrap, second attempt. This will be in the split grip. Colour preserver has been applied, awaiting the tie off and epoxy.
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Fore and rear grips. Made from two thicknesses of composite cork and cork gasket material. Glued with Rod Bond. Turned on a drill lathe. A different shape but it works.
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Fore and rear grips. Made from two thicknesses of composite cork and cork gasket material. Glued with Rod Bond. Turned on a drill lathe.
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A quick repair of a loose reel seat. Required turning new grips. My third on a drill lathe. Needed to clean up loose threads and fix spigot ferrule fit problem.
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This is the first guide. Measures 17.5mm across and 23.6 high inside the ring. What would the model be and the original size?
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Fibreglass, spigott ferrules. Lots of thread :)
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The threaded rod is wrapped with teflon tape to allow the spool to turn smoothly. The spring is extendable to allow different return lengths. A rivit and rod tip finish the tensioner.
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I may have overbuilt this.
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I have cut a one piece rod and installed a spigot ferrule. I would like to test cast the blank/rod before finishing the grip, guide wraps and decorative wraps. I have wrapped the female ferrule very tightly with nylon thread. Do I need to epoxy the ferrule wraps before test casting?
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I use a 4 jaw self centering chuck for the head end. A Jacobs chuck will also work if it is large enough for the mandrel. I use a 60 degree love center for the tail stock. Depending on the cork, some is harder than others, I just use sandpaper for shaping. Chris Richer
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picked one up a couple of week ago. worked well. Found it a little thick, but will try again.
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you could probably secure the foil with colour preserver.
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Lay the horizontal threads, Secure permanently or temporarily. Cover with colour preserver. This should lock the threads in place. Do trim wraps and decal.
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On threaded rod, I use Teflon plumbers tape.
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I have heard of people using the devices used to install and remove light bulbs in tall ceilings to hold the glass. Check Home Depot for these. Personally, I have an ALPS chuck (http://alpsforecast.com/products/tools/alps-chuck-upgraded/) that I modify, by reversing the rubber pads, to clamp the inside of the glass. I tape two glasses together by their bases. I chuck one glass on the ins
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Contact Andy at RodBuilder Supplies on the left. He was doing a lot of building of Sage blanks. He would most likely be able to answer your questions.
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Engrave the handle. Put a thin but saturating coat of epoxy on it, being sure not to fill the engraving. When the epoxy is dry, paint the engraving, wiping off the excess. Apply additional coats of epoxy.
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Billy: Are you talking about thick coats of light finish or mediums coats for a thick finish?
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That blank may not be available from retail sources. The rod building catalog for St. Croix does not list an equivalent blank. Try calling St. Croix and asking about the blank or a close blank.
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It does work :)
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If you want a simple decorative wrap, look up dragon scales on the image page. Mesh drywall tape and thread.
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If you are still looking for alternate spiral techniques, search Roberts Wrap and Acid Wrap.
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Interesting idea Ken. I cut my mesh drywall tape into 1" wide strips and then use bands, sliding the reel seat into the we mix. I was doing this on freshwater rods.
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you need to create a separate login on the photo page. I can be the same as you rodbuilding.org account, but it is for a separate application.
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