Perfect...Thank you.
Forum: rodboard

Scott Grady Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Proof has it and a video on how to use it. Thank you. An excellent video, but their rattan is extra fine. I'm hoping to find something around 3 mm wide.
Forum: rodboard

I would like to try building a rattan (covered) fly rod grip. Can anyone provide me with a source for rattan strips (2.5 - 3 mm wide), suitable for building grips? thanks for any help.
Forum: rodboard

ron zimmerman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have coated a few cork handles with thread > master lite while wrapping guides and to my > surprise they are very grippy not slippery at all > when wet . Tough stuff and you can actually see > your wraps , patterns or whatever you put on the > handle . Good to know..I'll have to give it a
Forum: rodboard

Thanks...I just talked to a rodbuilder/supplier, who said the same. He uses it for heavy duty boat and halibut rods. He says it's very durable, easy to use, and, should it get worn/weathered over the years, easy to strip off and replace. Looks like I'll be going ahead with it.
Forum: rodboard

I plan on building a downrigger rod, to be used on the saltwater, primarily for salmon up to 40+ lbs. I'll use a graphite lower grip, and thinking about using eva, with flocked shrink wrap (Mudhole) over it, for the upper grip. Can anyone comment re: the durability of the shrink wrap in this application ? thanks
Forum: rodboard

Jim Ising Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Yes. Load should distribute along the bend of a > fly rod blank the same way it does along a > spinning or casting blank. That's what I was hoping...thanks for your help.
Forum: rodboard

Thanks Bruce. I have a calculator program for fly rods...just wondering if it's suitable for gear rods as well. I'm guessing static loading of a rod should be the same, regardless of line system. Any comments?
Forum: rodboard

I've been using a guide calulator program ( v1.4.2 ) for determining a starting point for guide spacing on fly rods. Can the same be used for centerpin/drifts rods?
Forum: rodboard

I'm building on a MHX ST1263 as a centerpin (float) steelhead rod, and have been unable to find guide spacing info for this blank on the MHX site. Can anyone here provide it? thanks for any help
Forum: rodboard

Much appreciated !
Forum: rodboard

I'm building a centerpin rod and have chosen "Y" frame single foot guides, and snakes. These are high frame guides, with a ring that sits on an angle offset from where the foot is attached to the blank. I have a list (from Batson) that shows guide size and placement. My question is: Should the ring, or the foot, be on my mark on the blank?
Forum: rodboard

I use an adjustable headlamp with interchangeable eyeglass lenses. It's very similar to a face shield (for grinding, etc) but instead comes with a set of magnifier lenses so I can choose the diopter that suits me. It was only $20, from Midland Tools (Canada). It's perfect for threadwork, as well as fly tying, etc.
Forum: rodboard

Much appreciated. Will check out some of the XST blanks.
Forum: rodboard

I am planning to build on an Anglers Roost 11' 6/7wt switch blank as a centerpin rod. The blank actually CCS tests out as a 7.8 wt, and I expect it to be able to handle lines in the 10-17 lb range. Can anyone recommend guide size, number and a starting point for spacing? I build fly and spey rods, but this will be my first CP build. Also, do CP builders do static testing to determine final guide
Forum: rodboard

I use Titebond III for gluing corks on a mandrill. If gluing directly onto the blank, I use Rod-Bond, or 12 hr epoxy. I found Titebond III doesn't adhere well to the blank, and have had a failure once using it.
Forum: rodboard

Just did as suggested above..lightly sanded to give the recoat some grip, wiped down with alcohol and recoated. I smoothed it out as best I could with a spatula, then lightly warmed it with a Bic lighter, to get it "almost" flowing. It came out smooth and clear as crystal. Thanks again for the help.
Forum: rodboard

Thanks Jon...I'll give that a try.
Forum: rodboard

I would like to put a 2nd coat of Threadmaster on guide wraps that were done last year. (i'm not happy with the one-coat finish) I'm wondering if I can put the 2nd coat directly over, or if I will need to o/wise prepare the cured finish beforehand.
Forum: rodboard

I have something in the works. Thanks for responses.
Forum: rodboard

Should be good now Phil.
Forum: rodboard

I've been using fir bark as accents for fly rod grips, and would like to try doing a birch bark grip. I'm in the middle of fir country (Vancouver Island) but have no access to birch. I'm wondering if someone would like to trade some birch bark rings for fir. Any interest?
Forum: rodboard

I'm curious, Gerald...Did you find any fir bark? I may be able to help you with that...Is there a way to pm me?
Forum: rodboard

phil ayers Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks everyone, he is a good friend just not > perfect and I would not let a rod or money come > between us. I have build him two and he loves them > both, I told him yesterday not to send me one of > his friends and expect the same. I want to be fair > but I am not stupid. Thanks again for the
Forum: rodboard

Thanks for the helpful responses! I think Tom described what is happening accurately...I will try the denim/file approach...much appreciated.
Forum: rodboard

I've used 1/16" craft foam as a thin accent between regular and burled cork on grips. I like the look of it, but don't like that it always seems to leave a slight ridge, rather than sanding down completely flush with the cork. Can someone suggest a method, or different material I can use to eliminate this?
Forum: rodboard

Update on an earlier post: I drilled two holes on opposite sides, at right angles to the blank, one to inject glue, the other to relieve air pressure. I went into a burnt cork accent ring to just touching the blank, then finished with a bodkin. The hole dia was just smaller than the syringe tip to ensure a tight fit. I then mixed Flexcoat epoxy, heated it with a hair dryer, pulled it into a F
Forum: rodboard

rick humphrey Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Here's an update: > > I drilled two holes on opposite sides, at right > angles to the blank, one to inject glue, the other > to relieve air pressure. I went into a burnt cork > accent ring to just touching the blank, then > finished with a bodkin. The hole dia was just > smaller than
Forum: rodboard

Here's an update: I drilled two holes on opposite sides, at right angles to the blank, one to inject glue, the other to relieve air pressure. I went into a burnt cork accent ring to just touching the blank, then finished with a bodkin. The hole dia was just smaller than the syringe tip to ensure a tight fit. I then mixed Flexcoat epoxy, heated it with a hair dryer, pulled it into a FC syringe
Forum: rodboard

Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Be very very careful using the epoxied grit > method. The grit can and does come off the reamer > inside the cork or foam cores. If you do not get > this all out before putting it on the blank, the > grit can badly scratch the blank, especially > noticeable on a colored blank! I speak from &g
Forum: rodboard