I can understand why there are so busy, It is a great place to do business !!! Tom
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I am so sorry to hear this. It was always enjoyable to talk with him at the expo and he also sent me good information along the way. God bless him and his family. Tom
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El Bolinger Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I might give gluing tip top first to see how it > works for me. > > @SPENCER why wouldn't gluing tip top first work > for your builds? Do you still do it after the > grips/seat and static test after that? > > @CHRIS how do you do your braid guide alignment > check? do you attach a r
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David The adhesive dries rather quickly. Sometimes after I run the foot across the glue stick I'll reheat the foot again lightly before applying it. I've never had a problem with it sticking............good luck. Tom
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Ernie, > When placing guides, I will place a cut off > spinning reel foot into the reel seat and use it > for a sighting device. Then, I start with the > stripper and work all of the way to the tip, > putting the tip top on last. > > By having the chopped off reel foot sticking up in
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That is a very nice tool Roger and thanks for sharing. One note to those of us that use a razor blade is that I use a brand new blade on every rod. Cuts those ligatures like butter and don't even have to cut all the way through most of the time.
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Peter Yawn Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The zbone rods for a few years until maybe 2021 > were built on xray blanks. I have heard the > kistler designs were their own and not off the > shelf xray blanks. My wild guess for xray blank > that is close would be SB724. Peter you are correct. I talked with Trey Kistler about matching anothe
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Mark I have repaired many, many rods just like that in the same area. On a ML only that far from the tip all you will need is a FIBERGLASS oversleeve. Two inches is a bit long to use, in the tip area. I would try to stay in the 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 inch length. Be sure that wherever you cut it that the same length is above and below the break. Slide the sleeve down from the tip until it is S
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Congratulations Norm. Your input and experience, of what you have shared many times is most appreciated. I can't think of any one else that would have been a better choice. Tom
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El that's a wonderful offer from Norm. I would take him up on it for a couple of reasons. You will get them in time but they will be the right size which is most Important. Tom
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El alli is not lost, If you look at the rear grip you posted under it is the is the suggested butt caps to use. In building your rods if your just starting your a long way from needing that but cap..Order the caps NOW and they will be at your house way before Christmas . Just build the rods without the cap, it won't make any difference in the process. When they arrive simply glue them on
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Rodgeeks rod arrived and all is well. I have to say I am excited that Rodgeeks is going to be offering SC lll rod blanks,. I have asked for them for years and am happy they are going to bring them to the market for us. Brandon. If you want to see the dark metallic blue rod I have several photos on my website. Go to the gallery and under custom rods scroll down about halfway. There is a m
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Anyone else having issues with Rodgeeks? I placed an order almost three weeks ago and Nothing. My account says unfulfilled but they were paid. I sent them an email a week ago asking for an update and never got a reply. This is not the Rodgeeks that i have worked with for many years.
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The TVS and SK2 seats use the same grips I think. They look very similar and using the inexpensive EVA I will order one and see how it fits.......Thanks
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So, what rear grip are you guys using on the TVS in either cork or Eva form. The one I have is a 16 mm. There is not much of a diameter on the back of it !! Tom
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Bob I have two of them in BLACK if you want them. Free just email me your address. Tom
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Darrin thank you for the insite. I have the 16 on this Drop Shot rod and will try a 17 on my next spinning rod Tom
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I was wondering if anyone has used the American Tackle Apex G2 Spinning Reel seat. The bright glossy black looks very nice. However, once I glued it in place on my drop shot rod it had a rather uncomfortable feeling to me. If anyone has used it and can pass on how well it feels while fishing it would-be greatly appreciated. Tom
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Tom, I know exactly what you're talking about with > the head stock taking up usable bed space. The way > I get around it is, I have my base sections > attached to two pieces of 1 5/8" aluminum > unistrut. If I need more usable bed space, I just > pull out the screws that are attaching the
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Tom, > Just to share a picture: > > > p/photo/16981/title/power-wrapper-bed-with-rollers > -and-brakes/cat/508 > > A few years ago, I had decided to replace the > wrapper bed. I found a 10 foot long piece of 2x4 > aluminum channel that I used for the base. I had > a fr
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Steve, your in good hands, Roger is the BEST. TOM IN
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Tom, > There is another pretty simple solution to your > issue. > > Just fabricate a 2 foot extension - on which you > mount your head stock and motor. > > One generally doesn't have any thing going on with > the first couple of feet from the butt cap on a > rod that requ
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I would contact pacific bay direct.
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While we are on the subject of the Pac Bay RW-3L this is not a problem so much as an idea I had while wrapping my latest 7'2" build. As any of us know that own the Pac Bay RW-3L It is touted as a having a 8 ft aluminum base. What it doesn't say is that after you put chuck on it that significantly changes. As in my case I have an ALPS heavy duty three jaw chuck. Once you put a seven foot
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There is another rheostat knob behind the drying motor. Not so sure that that could be a problem but a simple voltmeter will tell if it has continuity thoughout the range ? Roger Wilson is out chief electrical engineer and hasn't weighed in on this yet.
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I would say this is an awesome cork VSS grip!!
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What Tom said. > > Also, if the part of the guide foot you ground on > is encapsulated in finish ep pploxy. It shouldn't be > letting moisture or even oxygen in, so it > shouldn't corrode, should it? Thanks David
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Eric very interesting information and I agree with all of your comments at the end.. Ever since the KT guides came out I have been building with them almost exclusively, mainly because of the tangle free design. It works and is very important in my builds. Personally i use braid on spinning and not bait casters and I have really noticed the difference. I have had clients bring me their rods with
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Most all guide feet today are stainless steel or titanium. It is not necessary to coat the foot with anything, however if the guide is black you may want to spray it with a little black paint so where the the thread goes over there won't be any different shades under the wrap. I have also used a Black Sharpie in lieu of the paint and it works rather well.
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Mike, here is another suggestion for you. I am not real knowelagble on CCS numbers either but I can tell you from many years of experience that I know what works. Most of my clients are bass tournament fisherman and for them having a big bass come unpinned is costly . For that reason I have built and recommend the Rod Geeks/ St Croix SG70MHM rod blank. This blank is rated for 8 to 20 pound l
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