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Repair Question-Cork Handle Question
Posted by: LonnieD (---.dialinx.net)
Date: June 15, 2001 02:07AM

'Little help from the repair masters...my flyrod - top of the line from major manufacturer (i.e., storebought). This rod has been fished 12 days in its 18 month life. I take it out, rig it and it squeaks like a screen door hinge on each cast. The handle has become loose as well as the reel seat! ($425 retail, mind you) I send the rod for warranty repair and get it back yesterday...new handle (cork looks like it was grown in Chernobyl vicinity...mostly ugly white filler) but same guide wraps, hookkeeper and winding check. 'Very ugly sanding job in the vicinity of the winding check where epoxy obviously oozed. I call the repair facility and they say they replace all handle from the rear and I'm the first person to ever complain. What would you recommend - a) Try again (they offered to check the work) b) Fix it myself and trash the warranty or c) forget it about and give the rod an ugly name?

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Re: Repair Question-Cork Handle Question
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (---.dialinx.net)
Date: June 15, 2001 09:19AM

Actually what you have encountered is not at all rare on many commercially produced rods, and sadly, on some custom rods as well. The problem is a poor fit between the pre-formed cork handle and the rod blank. I have no doubt they did replace things, but the same type, style and size (I.D.) grip went back on there. Unless they shimmed it properly, you have exactly what you had before - a loose, creaking grip.

I'd send it back again and explain that it is just as it was before. A reputable company will make it good. If they can't do better this time, and you really like the rod, fix it yourself or have a competent custom rod builder tackle it for you.

Yes, it's a lot of time and trouble for something that should have been done right the first time.

.................

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Re: Question Tom K..!
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (---.dialinx.net)
Date: June 15, 2001 09:43AM

Sully,

There is really nothing wrong with it, provided the necessary shimming is then done at the forward end of the grip. I've found that most of the time this mis-match between the blank and grip, enough to cause "creaking" noises, is really very slight. It doesn't take much.

But no, there's nothing wrong with doing it that way if you'd rather not replace the butt guides, winding check, etc.

.....................

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Re: Question Tom K..!
Posted by: John Britt (---.tampabay.rr.com)
Date: June 15, 2001 10:39AM

Sadly,what Tom said re poor fit is becomming more and more frequent,quality control seems to be lacking from top end to low,have had to reglue ,replace,etc more reel seats and grips this year then in the last 10,a few extra minutes spent at the beginning can save hours of time and agravation later,of the two methods mentioned my thoughts would be
1-a high quality rod if possible go the long route obtain the best cork possible shape your own grip and install in the normal manner provided you don't have and fancy art work that would be disturbed,
2 lower end or where be extremely difficult to replace in normal manner carefull reaming and measuring should allow a good fit,a layer of thread is all that is usually needed to fill in a gap between cork and blank

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Re: Question Tom K..!
Posted by: Steve Morris (---.blm.gov)
Date: June 15, 2001 04:19PM

Replacement from the rear is no real problem if you glue on individual cork rings and shape the handle on a lathe. You could also use moisture-cured urethane glue, which expands as it dries. The real problem is getting the reel seat off.

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