I have followed the article in RM to the tee about the equal angle set- up. I placed my rod vertical with a corresponding coloumn of peg holes and found the point where the rod starts to bend 1/2" from vertical. After reading the article this is where my 120 degree line should cross the rod. Right? Anyway, when I set it up like this the first line or ray is crossing the rod about 5 or greater inches from the tip. If the set-up guide is the 120 degree line then this set-up won't work because it puts the first guide to far down from the tip. If I move the center point, which is the point from which all rays eminate from, toward the tip then that would put my set-up guide about an 1 1/2" from the start of the bend. Anybody see what I'm doing wrong? I know it has to be me not doing something right.

Thanks for any help and/or suggestions,
Steve

In that case you need to move to another set of lines, you need more guides. Don likes to use 120 degrees as the control standard as it is divisible by so many numerators. Thus you can arrive at several different line sets based on number of guides desired.

What are you working with now? 5 lines? 6 lines? 8? All will devide equally into 120 and corresponding lines can be drawn. One of those should get you a guide located at about 3 or 4 inches behind the tip, if that is what you desire.

You also need to consider the type rod you are working with. If it is a heavy surf or boat rod, 5 inches may not necessarily be too far to locate the first guide. On most lighter rods, most freshwater rods and fly rods, then I would agree that 5 is pushing it.

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I have lines for 6, 8, 10 guide set-up. None of which seem to be less than 5" from the tip. I can get it closer to the tip if I move the PGT closer to the tip but then the 120 degree line doesn't mate with the set-up point on the rod. I am trying to set up a moderate action bass rod. Not coming out like I had planned. Oh well, I guess I got somemore tinkering to do.

Thanks,
Steve

And Steve, you'll find other guides aren't evenly spaced also. The action/ taper isn't parabolic, so the spacings will odd. But they are also correct. 5" is not unreasonable. If you protractor marks are accurate, you'll be set up correctly. I've been setting up on 15 degree angles, but I have the option of 20 dg if desired.

Steve,

With that type of action your spacing may not be off as much as you think it is. You can also move your set-up point just enough to get the tip guide a bit closer if you desire, it'll still work just fine. Don is quick to point out that nothing is set in stone and that "tinkering" as you call it, is just part of the process any discriminating rod builder will use to obtain the best results.

As you use it more and more, I think you'll find that most blanks won't present the problem this one has. Every now and then you'll have an oddball that requires some adjustment. That's just rod building I guess.

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Tom,
After going back and looking over what lines I have drawn the 10 guides line does get it closer to the tip. I have a fear of breaking at that point if the guide is not close enough! After I started looking at it again I made the mark for the first 12 degree line but I didn't extend out past the path of the rod. DUH! But I do see now that for different types of actions it calls for a different number of guides. With the set-up like I have it now it would take ten guides from the set-up guide to the tip most guide with three other guides for the spiral transition. This is on a 7' mod. action Forcast blank. Thanks for the help and sorry for really making a stupid post. Should've paid a little more attention.

Thanks,
Steve

Steve, I am still having trouble with my ISP and am not able to get many answers for you but you can email me at dmorton35@hotmail.com and I will try to answer them untill I get my ISP working. I think your answer is to use a piece of string and place it at the center of the ray with the other end extending to the tip of your rod or to the 0 degree line, stright up the edge of your board. Now trace the line around the arc or your rod using the same radius as the distance from the center to the tip of your rod. It should get progressively further away from the rod as you move it toward the butt. If it does not or crosses the rod as it probably does with your rod, then move the tip toward the center until the radius described earlier will get progressively further away from the rod as you move around the arc of the rod toward the butt. The 1/2 inch away from the verticle at the 120 degree line is a starting point that will work with most rods. A very fast rod may need to be moved away from the center to get the best spacing and a very slow action rod may need to be moved closer to the center to get the best spacing. In most cases the string, radius, test will tell you where you are correct or not. If the string moves away from the rod quickly, the tip needs to be moved away from the center for the best placement. If the string, radius, does not move away from the rod or crosses the rod you need to move the tip closer to the center for best placement.

There are many variables that can come into play when you set up the guides but I have yet to find a rod that once correctly placed on the board had a guide placement that I thought was not correct. I have been toying with a concept dealing with energy transfer or getting the rod to snap the line harder on the cast and find that more guides at the very tip of the rod seems to work better. More but lighter and smaller- less weight- less weight-, seems to be one of the most important considerations. This is accomplished by using the progressive angle concept or breaking the first angles smaller and adding an additional guide or two in the tip area of the rod.

As Tom said, this is not an exact science and nothing is set in concrete so experiment, set-up a rod and tape the guides on, test cast and make up uour mind. If you have problems email me and I will try to help.