We've had such good conversation discussing gluing cork rings, I thought I'd throw out the same type question for rod tips, realizing everyone has the right to their opinion.

When I asked a friend in the business, he recommended Flex Coat 5 minute epoxy for the job. It works fine, but after reading the warning label I decided to discontinue use. Fatal if swallowed...damages skin...causes blindness if comes in contact with eyes--I just can't risk it with my two year old daughter running around the house. I realize all chemicals and epoxys are dangerous and I keep them under lock and key, but that label scared me a bit. Any less dangerous proven favorites out there?

Rob:

There are a number of good products to be used for adhering the rod tip to the blank. Chief among them are quick setting epoxy glues and thermosetting glues. I use the epoxy becaue it is easy to use and reposition as necessary. Also, the tip does not come off if the rod gets hot in the car. I have not lost a rod tip from glue when using the epoxy. That is my preference. Just to be fair, the thermosetting stuff is heated with a lighter and wiped on the tip. The tip top is pushed over the blank tip and twisted quickly into place. Once cooled, the tip will stay in place until reheated. Both are simple to use. (BTW, the tiptop epoxy bond can be broken by heating carefully with a lighter if the need ever arises to remove it.)

Key issue about all chemicals is the dose. Warnings, such as you mentioned, are taken away from context of exposure. Yes, the amines contained in the hardener for the epoxy are the culprits. However, how much does a person have to get on their skin or in their eyes to cause a problem? Most of the referenced effects are from pure chemical, not the mixtures used in the final product. As a result, there is no reference to dose, only that " it can happen". This is extremely misleading to the average user.

OK, so now what? Well the point I have for you is to take reasonable precautions when using these materials and you will not have problems. For yourself, this means washing your hands following use and insuring the work area does not have any spilled product. For most of us rod builders, washing the hands frequently while we work is a religeous experience. We do it lots. For your daughter and other children, Daddy's rod stuff has to be stored far away from them. Beyond that, I cannot offer much. Do not be afraid of the labels, however use them as a guide as to what could happen if you took no precautions for yourself or your family.

Doug Weber
Weber Rod Works

I use 2 part epoxy on the big heavy duty stuff. For everything else I have decided upon what is, for me, the best method I have run across. I use hot-melt glue (these come in different temp ranges - go as high as you can) to install the tip-top. When I make my trim wrap I sometimes wrap up and over the tip top tube by a few turns. With "A" thread this is hardly noticable and easy to do. When applying my epoxy finish I carry it up onto the tip top tube, and any overlying thread wrap on onto the tube. The finish "locks" the top in place - it won't move or come loose even if it gets hot. But if I need to remove it I can scrape away the overlapping finish from the tip top tube and with very gentle heat the hot-melt glue will release quickly and easily.

I have nothing against the use of 5-minute epoxy for tops, but have, on occasion, seen people use far too much heat in trying to remove a top thus fastened and the tip is ruined.

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Good suggestions. I already use the couple thread overwrap method for extra security and agree with your thoughts on that. Never thought of just buying glue gun sticks and melting a drop or two into the tip top if that's what you mean. Makes sense--that's what the specialty branded tip top adhesives are I'll bet. Please give me some brand suggestions on two-part epoxy. Is this the same as the slow cure epoxy you mentioned for cork? I've seen so many styles and brands of "epoxies" I'm not sure what to use for what.

I also use the high melt point glue stick, like from flex coat for most freshwater applications, even musky weight haven't had any failures.
I like to make sure enough is applied that will come out the tiny tip of the tube to assure bonding within the entire tubel

I would concur with Tom K. about some of the larger sized tops and go with two part mix epoxy. Also like using the slight overwrap for both appearance and a little edge for security.


My two cents.
Rich
www.rodreel.com

I have secured tip tops with "hot melt" for many years with near 0 problems since I began "roughing-up" the tube with a broken dental explorer, then cleaning with alcohol. We don't have the 100 degree days as you may further south. Don't care for 5 min. epoxies because of the heat to remove. To each his own.