I have the static deflection wired the "old way", but I am still sort of unclear on how exactly to locate the choke guide for the "new concept".
thanks in advance for any help.

The choke guide is located about 4 inches after the first stipper guide. I assume this is the "choke guide" you are referring to. Typically one size smaller than the first stripper. Bob, correct me if I am wrong.

no, I mean the choke guide for a spinning rod set up.

Jeff,
Do you have the back issue of RodMaker that explains the idea of establishing the choke guide point for a spinning reel setup?
Maybe Tom K. will jump in here and give his best explaination about how this is done.

One thing to keep in mind is that the setup is done with the reel that will be matched to the rod being built. Maybe Tom would have some comments about substituting another reel might affect the particular performance.?

Rich

Most spinning reels have about a 4 degree tilt toward the rod. Put the reel that you're going to use on the rod. Use a long straight edge along the line of the mainshaft of the reel. The point that this straight edge intersects with the rod is the location of the choke guide. By the way this doesn't work with the Penn SS series, as they don't angle toward the rod at all.

lynn, do you put the guide there right on that point, or would you want it slightly towards the butt so the line ends up shooting through the ring of the guide? and when you do test casting and setting up the rest of the guides, do you move that one too, or is that where it belongs and that's that?

You can put it there at the intersection point or move it back just a tad so the line is in a perfect straight path. A half inch or so really makes little if any difference. From that point on out, use the same size guide as the choke guide (These should be the smallest guides you plan on using anyway) and from the choke guide back to the reel use the table or straightedge to help you select or place the guides. The guides shoul all be of a size and height so that each guide touches the edge of the table. This gives you your straight line path.

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The choke guide is normally a very low frame guide that sits close to the rod, so there is very little difference. Generally I don't move the choke guide from that position, but as you know there are very few hard and fast rules in rodbuilding.

ok, problem #2 following this advice, and my back issue of rodmaker, The choke guide ends up being only about 4 or 5 inches from the tip! it is a short rod. Loomis sg641imx, about 5'4" with the handle. what to do now? find another reel? or is this the best I can do with a short rod like this? I am afraid that going by this method I am going to end up using bigger guides than what I thought I could get away with.

Nope, you're okay. If that's where it falls, that's where it falls. I'm guessing your using a pretty light rig with light line. So you can probably go down to a size 6. That puts you at a small tip top, and a #6 and then up from there back to the reel. You'll still come out with less weight on the tip area than the old way would have required.

I would guess you'll end up with something like a concept 20 high, 16 high, 10 high, 8 high and the low 6 and tip. I'm guess of course as I would have to have your blank and reel here to know for sure. Just make sure the guides choosen allow for that all important straight line path.