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Reel Seat Bushing question- Cut or not to cut?
Posted by: Tony Hill (---.ras11.vahen.tii-dial.net)
Date: December 04, 2001 07:14PM

When I order reel seats, I also order a pair of graphite bushings that fit them. They are about an inch long each. I ream them out just like the handles for a snug fit, then epoxy them on with high-strength "two ton" 90 minute epoxy. I then slather them and the space between them with epoxy, and slide on the reel seat. I stand the rod up, so the extra epoxy I put on settles down and makes "rings" of epoxy above the rear grip, and above the two bushings, for a solid connection.

Today, I decided that MAYBE if I cut the bushings in half, creating, four 1/2" bushings, I could distribute the load better, giving the seat better support along it's length. Also, that would create more "pockets" between the bushings, to creat more epoxy "rings" for an even stronger bond.

WHAT DO YOU THINK of this idea? Is this wise, or is it a no-no?

Thanks again for all of your help. I'm having a lot of fun building my own rods. But don't worry, I'll never do this as a business! Only for me and my very closest friends!

TH

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Re: Reel Seat Bushing question- Cut or not to cut?
Posted by: Chuck B. (---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: December 04, 2001 08:40PM

Those rings of epoxy are worthless really, I think. They have no real strength. The bushings support the seat and the epoxy adheres everything together. I would think the total bonded surface between all the parts is what counts and just as 8 split 4 ways is 2 and 8 split 2 ways is 4, there would be no real difference, just some extra work on your behalf. The only time I might want more bushings or to space those two out more would be if I am using a reel seat with a clamp that might crush or deform the seat in the middle. Then I try to put a bushing right underneath where the clamp will apply pressure. This is very important on the graphite type boat rod seats. I have seen them crack when the fishermen applied too much clamp pressure and the seats weren't supported in the mid section by a bushing.

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Re: Reel Seat Bushing question- Cut or not to cut?
Posted by: Tony Hill (---.ras11.vahen.tii-dial.net)
Date: December 04, 2001 09:13PM

Chuck,

Thank you for the comeback.

Your reply confuses me a lot! Several more experienced rodbuilding friends of mine do not use anything but bands of masking tape, with lots of epoxy inbetween. They tell me that the tape is mostly a spacer, and the epoxy does most of the work.

Why do you say the epoxy is worthless? Does it not bond the parts together, and is it not stronger than both masking tape and that bushing material? Man, do I hope so! Otherwise, I'm going to worry a lot about my reel seats in the future!

Would you recommend that I simply use more full-sized bushings for better support?

TH

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Re: Reel Seat Bushing question- Cut or not to cut?
Posted by: Tony Hill (---.ras11.vahen.tii-dial.net)
Date: December 04, 2001 11:06PM

Thanks, guys. So basicly, I'm just wasting epoxy, when the bushings and regular amounts of epoxy will do just fine. It's good to know there shouldn't be any negative results, though.

If that is the case, then I will keep using the bushings, then. They seem to work fine, and I have no complaints. Thanks for the info!

TH

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Re: Reel Seat Bushing question- Cut or not to cut?
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (---.dialinx.net)
Date: December 05, 2001 08:54AM

The bushings or arbors that you are using are perhaps the best way to mount any seat when considerable space between the blank and seat exisits. Two 1-inch arbors properly sized and epoxied will give you all the support you need. Do take heed of what one person above mentioned - that being that if you are using a reel with a clamp you should located an arbor under the part of the seat where the clamp will apply pressure.

And yes, pouring in extra epoxy adds weight, but almost nothing in terms of extra strength.

...........................

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Re: Reel Seat Bushing question- Cut or not to cut?
Posted by: Jeff Stickle (---.lnh.md.webcache.rcn.net)
Date: December 06, 2001 09:28PM

Why have any space in there at all? I use cotton chalk line saturated with devcon 5-ton epoxy and have a "bushing" the entire length of the reel seat. You have to wrap it on to get the proper fit before you saturate it with epoxy. When saturated it expands a little but it gives a tight fit. If you need to have smaller spacing separate the strands and use one or two alone. Make sure the line is saturated with epoxy as the cotton may rot if it is raw gets wet and is allowed to sit.

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Re: Reel Seat Bushing question- Cut or not to cut?
Posted by: Tony Hill (---.ras11.vahen.tii-dial.net)
Date: December 11, 2001 03:47AM

Just an update...

I've done some comparison of the rod I made by cutting the bushings in half and separating them, (4 smaller bushings) and the regular, 2-bushing rods, and there is only a little difference between them.

When the rod is flexed heavily, there is small amount of movement between the reel seat and the foregrip in the 2 bushing seat. Only senditive hands will pick this up. The 4 bushing seat definitely feels a little more solid, although the difference can only be noticed at the most extreme levels of flex.

Does this really matter? I somehow don't think so, but maybe someone else may want to experiment with this, to see if they get similar results.

As for me, I think I'm going to keep using the 4 bushing system for my personal rods.

Thanks for all the help, guys!

TH

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