I have my rod building area in my garage and I live in FL. It gets to 95 degrees in my garage this time of year. What adjustments should I make when applying an epoxy finish?

I started rod building a few months ago so it has not been too much of an issue yet, but now I have a rod ready for epoxy. I have been using ThreadMaster Lite and/or ProKote. When I mix a batch of epoxy I use an CRB mixer and run for 4 min. then apply to rod over the next 15-20 min. I rotate at 9 rpm for 4-5 hrs.

You will find the epoxy open and cure times are shorter as the temperature increases. And any bubbles ought release a bit easier and quicker.

You could mix up a batch of epoxy and observe the open and cure time to better anticipate the temperature impact.

Any chance to do finish work early AM or late PM to avoid the highest temperature?

Tony

I live in Fl and the heat and humidity in the summer can be brutal. I have had no problems with the epoxies curing, Because the various epoxies cure at different rates I keep the mixing cup near the rod and check the cup to make sure the epoxy is cured before handling.

The only problem you will have is when you apply the epoxy at night. That is when all the insects come out and are attracted by the presence of the epoxy and lights in the work area. By time the epoxy sets you will windup with "insect art" in the epoxy. That is why I only do small repairs and epoxy work in the garage and only during the day. When I want to finish a complete rod I have a area in the house that I use temporarily, since I don't do that many rods it is not a problem tying up a small area for a few hours.

John

John & Donald - thank you for your replies. I am less nervous now. I typically apply epoxy in the morning so the nighttime bug issues are not a problem. I also just bought a CRB drying tent

John - wherein FL are you located?

Humidity has no effect on the set or cure time of any epoxy. Temperature does, however. Figure that from 70F, every 20F increase or decrease in temp will result in halving or doubling the set and cure time.

.............

Not sure if you do this or not, but if you will pour your mixture on to a flat surface after mixing and allow the finish to spread out, it will extend your working time versus the mixture staying in the confined area of the mixing cup. Bubbles also release easier.

Bob McKamey
Mud Hole Custom Tackle
bobm@mudhole.com

Thanks Bob - I do use the Mudhole foil epoxy dish.

Ocala here, I often visit Tampa. Contact me via email if you want.

Thanks Mark - email sent

Different types and brands of epoxy finishes have different pot lives and curing rates at any given temperature. I know that Prokote has a relatively long pot life compared to most other epoxy finishes. Not so sure about the pot life for ThreadMaster lite, however most lite finishes have a longer pot life than the regular build finishes. So when you are working at high temperatures there are two things you can do. 1) Use a long pot life finish, and you appear to be doing this, or 2) Extend the pot life of the finish by cooling it. You can cool by placing the mixed epoxy on top of a towel covered cold pack. If you need it, cooling will give you extra of time to apply your epoxy. At the high temperatures you are talking about the towel wrapped cold pack will keep the epoxy in the area of 70 - 80 degrees.
Norm

Tony

Sanford area.

John

About two years ago there was an article in RodMaker on how to make a finish "cooler." It allowed you to keep your mix at whatever temperature you wish, regardless of your shop temperature. In essence, it let you dial in your own pot life.

................

Hello Tom.

Are you talking about "A Finish Cooler" By Chuck Brewer, if so it is in Volume 19 Issue 5 Page 12.


Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Yes. Pretty clever idea.

...........

Hello Tom.

Yes it is!


Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

I hate bugs.

a lot of what said goes against the physics of epoxy as it produces heat while curing and will take longer to fully cure at warmer temps and longer with colder temps if they are above or below the optimum cure temp recommended from the MFG. my suggestion is to mix as the directions recommend and apply with your choice of tool I prefer a spatula while rotating and go back and check for any bubbles and that the guide tunnels are filled and let it turn for at least 6-8 hours and check to see if it has cured and if so let it stand for a full 24 hours before putting it in to service.
I could be wrong but after 50 plus years of building and using epoxy finish since the late 60's I think what I have listed is correct and will yield the best finish possible

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

i like bugs, especially those made with deer hair..lol.

Hi guys has anyone tried drying tent as I'm thinking
Of getting one as I work in my garage it is the
Only place I can work do they do the job thanks