Couple questions regarding low profile reel seats and epoxy ramps. I have a couple builds coming up where I'm using a skeleton seat and also another rod with something like a Minima ultra light reel seat because the buyer wants it super sensitive. For the skeleton in the past I've ordered vinyl winding checks to fill for the inside because the two pieces butted up against a grip and a foregrip. In this case I'm not going to use a foregrip. I'm thinking about just plugging it with a vinyl winding check. Has anyone done anything like that? Then maybe an epoxy ramp. Will any 5 minute epoxy work for that?

I'm also thinking an epoxy ramp for the low profile seat. Will that work or will I wish I had done something different with metal winding checks? The picture of Minima ultra light seats show metal checks that are ordered separately.

I have a bonus question. The blanks are ordered but are taking some time and I'm trying to get these rods ready for a mid July delivery. The blank order is going to take me right up to the wire because they are 2-3 weeks out at best. This build will be a Winn Split grip butting to the Fuji skeleton seat. If I want to order nice aluminum winding checks to pretty up the transition from the split grips to the blank, do I just guess on diameters? They are $3 apiece so I don't want to waste too much money on guesswork. I like using metal and vinyl winding checks for certain purposes, but I'm getting tired of waiting for the blanks to measure the diameters and then paying shipping to order the checks and then waiting another week for them to arrive. Hoping someone has a good solution.

Thanks,
Paul

I use Rod Bond paste epoxy for reel seats and for ramping. Ramping is best done with a pallet knife for general application and denatured alcohol dipped finger tip while turning the rod for smoothing and shaping. I suggest if time allows , set reel seat one day and ramp the next day, cuts way back on oopsies .

Another option that works very well - rather than an epoxy ramp:

[www.mudhole.com]

or

[www.mudhole.com]

Paul,

Dumping the fore grip is step one for building light rods. Use either a winding check or a rubber o-ring that fits just inside the barrel of the seat. If you use an o-ring, add a trim wrap and use your burnishing tool to push thread back under the o-ring. When you apply finish, it will wick back in, and if you touch your brush to the edge of the barrel, it will flow, fill the voids and build a little mini epoxy ramp.

Epoxy ramps can be things of beauty, and I appreciate them aesthetically. However, based on my experience handling rods at every stage of the build, adding large amounts of epoxy, either adhesive or finish, doesn't do you any favors on the sensitivity side of things. I would stick to winding checks if you can. That's just the opinion of a person that tries to talk himself into winding checks and added aesthetic features on personal rods that never find their way onto the rod. I love the result on the occasion that I do them for others.

Without the blank in hand, email or call the manufacturer or vendor and ask for blank measurements at the places that you are going to put the winding checks. Many will be happy to oblige. As an insurance policy add some nice vinyl winding checks to your order as a back up plan in case you get force into a tough spot with the approaching deadline.