I'm using the Pro Kote finish and I notice that its collecting on the center of the wraps ( at the guide foot area) and not spreading to the end of the wrap where it meets the rod. This is my second coat , any thoughts?? Thanks

Either too much finish; rod is not level, or rotation speed is too high.


.............

Us a brush or spatula to even it out, You don't give any details how you applied it??

I am applying with a brush, rotation is 18 rpms. Apply finish and just hold brush against guide to spread.I leveled the turner base prior to coating.( could the rod supports not be level at the butt end?) I also noticed that the snakes are fine it's only on the strippers. It's a 13'3" two handed spey rod.

Prokote though marketed as a medium finish is pretty light build, which means it will more easily spread to the most distal portions of your wrap (the guide feet) in this example. It would get even worse with thinner finishes, or if you heated the finish where it thinned too much. You can either put on much thinner coats and more of them, or you can switch to a high build finish and see how it works for you.

Best of luck,
Nick

I use the ProKote medium viscosity epoxy product and would wager $s to donut holes your problem is primarily excess epoxy on the wraps.

Here are things to try:

1. The epoxy, even the light or medium viscosity formulations, will not do a good job migrating to the wrap edges without help. Am not suggesting you paint the epoxy on the wraps, rather that you "push" the epoxy to the edges.

2. It is not probable you can get one coat and done coverage with ProKote medium viscosity, so do not try. Instead, plan on at least two, and sometimes three, THIN coats to cover and seal well.

3. You can spin the rod quickly to obtain a straight epoxy edge beyond the wraps, but quick rotation while curing is not such a good idea.

4. The first half hour after applying the epoxy is golden. Do not worry about dry spots - you can correct those with the next coat. And do not set the rod to turning in a dryer. Instead, turn the rod 180 degrees by hand each minute for 10 minutes, watching the wraps like a hawk for any epoxy sags which you will need to wick off. Then turn 180 degrees every two minutes for another 20 minutes. Then, after having turned by hand for 30 minutes you can user a dyer for about 8 hours.

Again, the keys to success are THIN coats and turning by hand for about 30 minutes.

Donald, turning BY HAND for 30 minutes? are you crazy?..lol..

Ben

Golly, I don't think I'm crazy despite the long line of those whose thinking is to the contrary! I do, however, freely admit to being old school to a fault.

Seriously, I'm continually surprised that builders will invest significant time and money in a custom build and then begrudge investing another 30 minutes or so in a simple and easy process that has a high probability to ensure success.

Donald, i bet you still mix epoxy by hand..lol..i hope you get that i,m not lol-ing at you..i actually enjoy turning by hand..you can get some unique shapes..my ice rods have double footballs or oval shaped epoxed thread wraps which can only be done by hand turning... but i don,t do this for money, that would take the fun out of it for me..your milage may vary as they say..

When I first started building rods I did not have a rod turner, so I turned my rods by hand with then suspended between two chairs. I rotated the rods a quarter turn every 5 min for the first 1/2 hr, then every 10 mins for a mother 1/2 hr and the every 15 min for an hour or so. I stopped rotating after a couple of hours. The finish came out great. I admit using an electrical rod turner is much easier, and much more convenient, but a good finish can be obtained by hand rotation. Hand rotation was a great learning experience for me, it really gave me a great feel for how much epoxy to apply to get good coverage and leveling without sagging. I also still mix my epoxy by hand using a brush, and pop the bubbles using a butan torch.
Norm

Dave,
If you are applying relatively thin finish and drying at 18 rpm ,the speed is likely leading to the foot balling of the finish.

Go ahead and apply at 18-100 rpm, but once you have the finish on where you want it and are in for the first 30 critical minutes of drying, use a dryer that turns at only 6 rpm.

Millions of rods are built every day that use a drying speed of 6 rpm for the fully drying time - after the quick initial finish application.

One nice way to achieve this variable speed is with the use of a small DC motor with a speed controller in series with the power supply.

I have made several for my own use, but Mud Hole also is selling one currently.

[www.mudhole.com]

------------------------
If you wish to make your own, simply obtain a lower speed dc gear motor, a speed controller and a power supply. Mount them up, attach your chuck to the motor shaft, mount the motor to a stand and you will be set.

A typical 50 rpm 12 volt dc motor:
[www.amazon.com]

A typical inexpensive motor speed controller:
[www.amazon.com]


A typical inexpensive 12 volt power supply:

[www.amazon.com]

Good luck

Thanks everyone for the info. I'm going to guess that a "thin" coat is one where you can see thread lines after dry. Roger thanks I should have no problem putting one together ( I do carry a master electrician license in 3 states). Just this one post and I feel so much smarter now. I've got a headache I need a drink....