It appears to me that guide foot glue is nothing more than a hot glue stick. Does anyone know if it is the same? I’m new to rod building and I just set guides on my first two rods with “guide glue” which seemed to be more difficult than it should be. If the glue is the same then it seems it would be a whole lot easier to use a glue gun to apply the glue to the guides and with more control. Thanks for any advice on this part of the process.

Im not real sure if its the same but I went away from using glue and now use these [www.mudhole.com] know these are probably the same as dental rubber bands but they work great for holding guides on the rod especially micros.....hope this helps

It may a less strong adhesive than that commonly sold as used as Hot Melt glue for crafts, fabrics, etc. Not really sure. You could ask John at Flex Coat and he can probably tell the specifics involved.

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Luke your thread to Mudhole went no where is it just me an my PC or what ??

William Sidney
AK

Yes, our formula is able to adhere better to the rod and components than a standard glue stick, also the guides can be tweaked before and after wrapping. I can understand at first it could be tricky to use, but I am confident that once you try our technique, you will give it the thumbs up.

Here is a video on how we do it:
[flexcoat.com]

Thanks for posting.

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

Try this
[www.mudhole.com]

At first i thought the special guide foot adhesive was the only type that would work for temporary guide foot positioning but after testing basic craft glue sticks and the guide foot adhesive sticks i found found zero differences between them . Both hold the guides on equally well and both allow the guide foot to be easily popped off for repositioning so i no longer pay over $2.00 for a single stick anymore and don't need to pay $6.95 shipping on top of it for buying a small item .


Just my experience of course

Considering that one of those glue sticks lasts hundreds of rods, isn't it nice to support a real rod building company like Flex Coat? The cost per rod is trivial. It is a very good way to position guides on a rod blank.

Just my opinion, of course.

Thanks guys for the replies. Luke that is a neat and clean way to do it but I like the idea of having some sort of protective material under the feet as I have have factory made rods fail from guides digging into the blank. John thanks for the video link. That was a huge help and I’m looking toward to refining my technique. Drew you make an excellent point and I always like to support the businesses in the industry especially American workers with American products. Thanks again.

Ryan,
When you prep guides, you might try the following.
I first use a belt sander to sand the foot to thin the tip if necessary.
But the final step that I do, is to do a final pass of the guide over a flat Arkansas stone to insure that the underside of the guide is free of any burrs that may lead to issues on the blank.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

A simple thing to do, that takes care of your issues in the vast majority of the cases.

Drew Pollock Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Considering that one of those glue sticks lasts
> hundreds of rods, isn't it nice to support a real
> rod building company like Flex Coat? The cost per
> rod is trivial. It is a very good way to
> position guides on a rod blank.
>
> Just my opinion, of course.


I have gone through about 4 of those glue sticks on two rods lol, i don't do it the way most do and i reposition the guides a ton of times so i go through a lot more . I heat the glue stick instead of the guide foot .


As far as leaving the adhesive on the blank to protect it , i thought the same at first but then realized that would dull sensitivity and if the bottom's are prepped well there won't be any digging into the blank.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/06/2018 11:58AM by herb canter.

I have used just about every method known to place guides for wrapping, and have ended up only using the Flex Coat adhesive. It does take a little practice to develop your skill with it, but once learned, it is fast flexible and convenient! My one stick has built well over 150 rods and is half used.

I asked the same question of guide glue compared to tip top glue. FC told me there is a difference.

As to the point of having glue under the foot to protect the blank - sounds good but doesn't that weaken the bond? After all, one of the first instructions of all epoxies to make sure the surfaces are clean and dry.

Finally, for you glue users, do you tweak the guides to line them up after applying the guides with the glue or after you've wrapped them?

Thanks.

I asked the same question of guide glue compared to tip top glue. FC told me there is a difference.

As to the point of having glue under the foot to protect the blank - sounds good but doesn't that weaken the bond? After all, one of the first instructions of all epoxies to make sure the surfaces are clean and dry.

Finally, for you glue users, do you tweak the guides to line them up after applying the guides with the glue or after you've wrapped them?

Thanks.

I just finished my first complete build. What I found is the glue stays rubbery and flexible. It only holds the guide to the blank and does not anchor it. The wrap and finish epoxy is what anchors the guide. I was a little surprised at first but when I wrapped the guides I quickly saw why the glue is meant to stay flexible. It is very difficult to get guides aligned perfectly with just the glue. Once wrapped I was able to tweak the guides to a near perfect alignment. I only say near perfect as my buildings skills and knowledge are entry level at this point. What I found awesome is how much one can learn on just one build. I plan on doing a traditional old school build using under wraps instead of glue but that is to help me expand my knowledge and skill. The glue will be my main staple though in the majority of my builds as it is convienent and very effect method on guide installation.

Rob tweak the guides after the thread is wrapped