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Lathe checklist
Posted by: Seth Johnson (---.williams.com)
Date: March 29, 2018 11:26AM

I've been researching and planning to buy a lathe for like a year now. Finally ready to pull the trigger ... I think. Does this look like a reasonable list of things I need? I've got a 1/4" x 18" mandrel already. Going to get the cork and stuff from Mudhole. Additions, subtractions, and recommendations welcome.

*Turncrafter Commander 10 in. Variable Speed Midi Lathe
*Live 1/2 Tailstock Drill Chuck #2MT
*Barracuda2 Lathe Key Chuck System
*Set of 6 Benjamins Best WOOD Magazine in.Best Value in. HSS Lathe Chisels (ncludes 1/2" bowl gouge, 1" roughing gouge, 3/8" spindle gouge, 1" standard skew, 1" round nose scraper, 3/4" x 1/8" parting tool)

Should I just stick with the standard tailstock, or do I need the live drill chuck tailstock? Should I instead get a standard drill chuck for center drilling stuff?

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Re: Lathe checklist
Posted by: John Cates (---.sub-174-207-1.myvzw.com)
Date: March 29, 2018 12:01PM

Don't want to hijack the topic, but here is my opinion.

Our Cork Lathe Setup is simple, cost effective and can be easily stored away not when in use. It works great for cork and EVA. Check out our video at the link below or on our website flexcoat.com

[www.youtube.com]

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

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Re: Lathe checklist
Posted by: roger wilson (---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: March 29, 2018 02:13PM

Seth,
It sounds like you have the perfect setup.

However, I would also purchase a chuck that will fit into the tail stock.

If you are like myself, there are many times when I would like to drill a hole in a spinning piece of work.

By chucking a drill bit into the chuck that is held stationary in the tail stock you can execute perfectly centered holes in your work piece.

If you make wood grips, this is nearly a necessity.

For example - a picture:

[www.rodbuilding.org] -- This is a picture using the live tail stock

A picture of the lathe with a Jacobs keyless chuck in the tail stock for perfectly centered drilling in a spinning work piece:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

It is also a very good idea to have a ball bearing steady rest, so that if you get a long work piece and want to support it without the use of the tail stock it works well as shown in the picture above.

Good luck

p.s.
Yes, the flex coat drill setup works great for making grips. But, unfortunately, with out the presence of a lathe bed and tail stock, the lathe loses much of its versatility when wanding to center or point drill with the use of a fixed drill bit in the tail stock.

Good luck



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/29/2018 02:19PM by roger wilson.

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Re: Lathe checklist
Posted by: Seth Johnson (---.williams.com)
Date: March 29, 2018 02:48PM

roger wilson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Seth,
> It sounds like you have the perfect setup.
>
> However, I would also purchase a chuck that will
> fit into the tail stock.
>
> If you are like myself, there are many times when
> I would like to drill a hole in a spinning piece
> of work.
>
> By chucking a drill bit into the chuck that is
> held stationary in the tail stock you can execute
> perfectly centered holes in your work piece.
>
> If you make wood grips, this is nearly a
> necessity.
>
> For example - a picture:
>
> [www.rodbuilding.org]?
> photo=16130 -- This is a picture using the live
> tail stock
>
> A picture of the lathe with a Jacobs keyless chuck
> in the tail stock for perfectly centered drilling
> in a spinning work piece:
>
> [www.rodbuilding.org]
> /photo/17053/title/lathe-with-jacobs-chuck-in-tail
> -stock-to-center-drill/cat/508
>
> It is also a very good idea to have a ball bearing
> steady rest, so that if you get a long work piece
> and want to support it without the use of the tail
> stock it works well as shown in the picture
> above.
>
> Good luck
>
> p.s.
> Yes, the flex coat drill setup works great for
> making grips. But, unfortunately, with out the
> presence of a lathe bed and tail stock, the lathe
> loses much of its versatility when wanding to
> center or point drill with the use of a fixed
> drill bit in the tail stock.
>
> Good luck

Thank you Roger. Is this a keyless Jacobs chuck? [www.pennstateind.com]

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Re: Lathe checklist
Posted by: Ron Weber (---.tc.ph.cox.net)
Date: March 29, 2018 03:36PM

Your forgot two of the most vital accessories. A good face shield or goggles, as well as some sort of mask or breathing apparatus

Ron Weber

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Re: Lathe checklist
Posted by: Seth Johnson (107.77.72.---)
Date: March 29, 2018 04:05PM

Ron Weber Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Your forgot two of the most vital accessories. A
> good face shield or goggles, as well as some sort
> of mask or breathing apparatus


I appreciate it. I knew I needed eye pro, but never thought about the mask

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Re: Lathe checklist
Posted by: Mark J. Mire (---.camtel.net)
Date: March 29, 2018 04:23PM

Roger, where did you purchase the ball bearing steady rest?

Thank you for your time,

~ Mark

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Re: Lathe checklist
Posted by: roger wilson (---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: March 29, 2018 05:13PM

Mark,
I made it.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Two pieces of wider bar stock.
One piece of flat stock for a base,
A piece of rod for the vertical supports.
I cut the vertical rods to length and then used a die to put threads on the end of the rod to screw into the base.
I drilled holes in the base for the vertical rods and threaded the holes to match the vertical rods.

The two horizontal bars, had vertical holes drilled in the ends to accommodate the vertical rods. Then , holes were drilled into the ends of the horizontal wider bars for thumb screws to hold the bars in the correct adjustment.

Then, two holes were drilled and tapped into the lower bar for the 2 skate board bearings.
Then, a matching hole was drilled and tapped into the upper bar for the centered single bearing to lock the items in place when the horizontal bars are made tight against the work piece in question.

It takes time but it doesn't cost much money.


Good luck

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