"I've thought about it, and I think realistically this makes the most sense. I have no business building something I fundamentally don't understand, so I will just buy some cheaper rods for now and build later if I get more into it."


Wrong, wrong, wrong.....

This is a perfect opportunity to learn something new. There is more than enough info on here to build you a high quality rod that you will be more than proud of. Or, if you screw it up, strip it and start over. You stated that you were thinking of pairing it with a Avet, so you are prepared to spend some bucks for this outfit already, save your pennies and go for it.

Here are some $0.02 ideas from me, take it or leave it.
Go Avet, no diawa. The SX is a casting fool and is fabulous, but that comes at the cost of less line capacity than the MXL (but the MC will help with both). Do you need to get out there as far as possible, or may you need more line for a big fish? Your call.

Rod, lots of options out there. You never stated 1 pc or 2. I'd say 2, makes transport to distant lands easier.
An affordable option is a PacBay PBX II SURF BLANK 11' 2PC 7 PWR X2GSU110H-2 11'0" | 20-40 lb. | 2 - 6 oz. | Mod-Fast Action | Heavy Power | 2 Piece | 8.0 Tip | 0.76 Butt | Blue Speckle Finish
$140.49

Skip the grip and cord wrap it - google "rooster rods cord grips and handles"
Plate style seat - Fuji LS7 Plate-Type Reel Seats
During set-up, wrap the seat area with electrical tape to prevent scratching, duct tap the plate seat on, then put the reel on. Move around until it feels right to you while doing some fake casts.

Live boldly, I build things that should not be built, and have not had a true failure yet. My 11 ft - 9 piece surf rod is not a thing of beauty, but it works, and can easily travel anywhere in the world.

Just shoot if you want more nearly-worthless info.

Drew Smith Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> "I've thought about it, and I think realistically
> this makes the most sense. I have no business
> building something I fundamentally don't
> understand, so I will just buy some cheaper rods
> for now and build later if I get more into it."
>
>
> Wrong, wrong, wrong.....
>
> This is a perfect opportunity to learn something
> new. There is more than enough info on here to
> build you a high quality rod that you will be more
> than proud of. Or, if you screw it up, strip it
> and start over. You stated that you were thinking
> of pairing it with a Avet, so you are prepared to
> spend some bucks for this outfit already, save
> your pennies and go for it.
>
> Here are some $0.02 ideas from me, take it or
> leave it.
> Go Avet, no diawa. The SX is a casting fool and
> is fabulous, but that comes at the cost of less
> line capacity than the MXL (but the MC will help
> with both). Do you need to get out there as far
> as possible, or may you need more line for a big
> fish? Your call.
>
> Rod, lots of options out there. You never stated
> 1 pc or 2. I'd say 2, makes transport to distant
> lands easier.
> An affordable option is a PacBay PBX II SURF BLANK
> 11' 2PC 7 PWR X2GSU110H-2 11'0" | 20-40 lb. | 2 -
> 6 oz. | Mod-Fast Action | Heavy Power | 2 Piece |
> 8.0 Tip | 0.76 Butt | Blue Speckle Finish
> $140.49
>
> Skip the grip and cord wrap it - google "rooster
> rods cord grips and handles"
> Plate style seat - Fuji LS7 Plate-Type Reel Seats
> During set-up, wrap the seat area with electrical
> tape to prevent scratching, duct tap the plate
> seat on, then put the reel on. Move around until
> it feels right to you while doing some fake casts.
>
>
> Live boldly, I build things that should not be
> built, and have not had a true failure yet. My 11
> ft - 9 piece surf rod is not a thing of beauty,
> but it works, and can easily travel anywhere in
> the world.
>
> Just shoot if you want more nearly-worthless info.

You have definitely renewed my interest. Thanks Drew!

I should have also said, the blanks you listed are great blanks.
Also, I know nothing about the Tommy Farmer-Carolina Cast Pro lineup, maybe worth checking into (along with their reels-another product I know nothing about, but look interesting after a google run).

Thanks Drew. Back to the guides. Do you guys think a KW 20, KW 16, then KW 12s to the tip work?

So, I have 2 questions -
What is your tip ring size going to be? If 12, then sure. If less than 12, the last 2 or 3 could be smaller (with not sure how many you plan on using).

Do you want a monkey wrench? Why not go with a spiral wrap? You could then reduce the # of running guides to make the top 1/2 much lighter. That long rod would also be more stable when fighting a fish. You would also get the benefit of having all the beachcombers (think bikini's) come up and ask why you put your rod together backwards.

Drew Smith Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> So, I have 2 questions -
> What is your tip ring size going to be? If 12,
> then sure. If less than 12, the last 2 or 3 could
> be smaller (with not sure how many you plan on
> using).
>
> Do you want a monkey wrench? Why not go with a
> spiral wrap? You could then reduce the # of
> running guides to make the top 1/2 much lighter.
> That long rod would also be more stable when
> fighting a fish. You would also get the benefit
> of having all the beachcombers (think bikini's)
> come up and ask why you put your rod together
> backwards.

I assumed, based on the recommendations received here and what I had seen elsewhere, that I should stay with a minimum of 12s to the tip with a 12 tip top. That seems really big to me, but that's the theory I'm working with at the moment.

I was thinking I would spiral wrap it. Seems like it would be irritating to have the reel flip over every time a load is applied. That could be an imagined problem, but again that's the theory I'm working with.

A spiral wrap does make the rod more stable when fighting a fish. Should be able to go from the 20mm butt guide straight to 12mm spiral wrapped.The weight difference between 8mm and 12mm running guides is relatively not much once you hang 6oz plus off the tip.