I did a pretty fancy feather inlay and put 2 coats of epoxy over it, but it's still all lumpy and bumpy. What's the answer? More epoxy? Seems like that would just accentuate the highs. Application? Can I sand it down between coats?
Thank you!

jontobey@yahoo.com
www.gointothelight.wordpress.com

Hello Jon.

Just put enough epoxy on it so when you sand it smooth you don't get into the threads.
Once smooth put on another (I prefer thin but whatever you like) coat.

Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

How have I never run across this tip! Thank you. What grit do you use?

Hello Jon.


If it is short I use a Fine "3M Pro-Pak Sponge", if it is longer than the Sponge I use a "9" DRYWALL HAND SANDER - Item# 97147" from Harbor Freight with 120-240 sandpaper.


Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

I disagree with thinning epoxy. I think that is a good way to introduce other problems. With high build, medium build, and low build available, I think it is also unnecessary. Experts have chimed in on this forum that thinning is not a good idea. It may work for some, but they probably have developed a process that is unknown to the rest of us.

When I do feathers I sometimes get bumps from the stems. I usually use 2 coats of lite Flex Coat first, then sand off the bump. Do not sand into the light stuff of the feathers, but if it's a stem, you can sand into it "some" to level it off. Takes experience. Learning curve. Then add the final coat.

Hello Michael.

I said a thin coat not a thinned coat, I don't thin epoxy, like you I know some bad things can happen if you don't get it just right so I don't try.

Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Sorry, my bad.

No Prob.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Jon,

As you build your coats up you can trim the high spots. I've put on as many as 6 coats of epoxy over feathers, just to get the right look.

I use a scalpel to selectively trim the high spots. If you use sandpaper, make sure no grit gets stuck in the epoxy.

Take care,

Chris

x10 on the comment by Chris.
Apply enough coats of finish so you get some thickness to the finish so that you can sand part of it safely away without getting into your feather work.

I start with 240 and if necessary go down to 180. Then, go back up progressivly to 600 grit. Continue to sand until level and or until you get too close to the feather work to feel comfortable. If you get too close, and or if you have gotten the finish level just apply one more top coat and you should be good to go.

The only critical part of the process is to start with enough thickness to the finish so that you can sand down all of the high spots before getting to the work under the finish.

After sanding, I use blue masking tape to tack off all of the sanding dust from the finish. I do not put any sort of solvent or cleaner over the sanded down finish before applying the final coat. You are just asking for trouble if you get any sort of solvent going on the work before the final coat of finish.

Good luck

I agree, trimming with a very sharp instrument is better than sanding.

Trimming sounds super scary. I'm going with sanding. Thank you!

Trimming is a technique you need to learn, whether for feathers, thread nubbins, or dust bumps. Sanding is less precise, and will fuzz a thread nubbin. The tiny scar from trimming will totally disappear under your next coat.

I think I undersold just how bumpy this was. I can trim nubbins and such, but I had to sand the whole thing.
However, it came out like glass. I should've been doing this a long time ago.

Jon,
Glad that you figured out and perfected a new part of rod building jobs.

Be safe

You guys figured it out. I just followed directions!
Interesting that I've looked at a lot of tutorials and never seen this tidbit.