So i ve started my first project, an older spinning rod that had damaged guides and much of the thread was unwrapping, I decided to paint the blank with a spray paint for plastic and it looks pretty good, I made a cross wrap and when I applied the u 40 color lock the threads look good but it seems bubbly and gummy on the blank. Should i have cleaned that part immediately with alcohol? What can I do now? Thx

It sounds like the color lock is attacking the finish, most likely the finish you sprayed onto it. When attempting a process new to the builder, the builder should test it on a scrap blank piece before proceeding. Then, no surprises. Maybe someone has a good idea, but I think the only thing to do now is to strip that portion of the rod that will have the wrap and start over. But that doesn't fix the other areas that will be wrapped, like the guide areas. I think you need to strip the paint from the blank and start over.

I don't see an alcohol cleaning as being a solution, but if you do, try it on a scrap blank.

I know many on the forum have painted blanks, and hope that one with experience will chime in, but I think they use automotive spray paints successfully.

A blank with no paint but coated with a glossy rod finish like Permagloss or Lumiseal is very handsome, IMO. NOT WRAP EPOXY. It will stand up to CP, but as stated before, try it out so you know you can do it and it stands up to any subsequent process you plan for it.

Thanks for the reply, what I ll will try is a fine coat of pro coat over the painted blank before anymore threading and see how that goes. I ll post the results for others

just over the areas to be subjected to color lok. Pro Coat is wrap epoxy and will make the blank very heavy if you use it over the whole blank.

If you plan to coat the whole blank to isolate the paint from further processes, then put the paint onto some scrap blank, then use Permagloss or Lumiseal over it. If OK you can do the whole blank. But if you coat the whole blank with wrap epoxy you will be creating an even bigger mess than you now have. It is not suitable for that. I know. I've done it.

The other option to use is the NOT use the color lock. Rather, do your wrapping and then apply your thread coating finish. Normally, the guide finish does not react to other paint or finish that is already on the rod.

You might just start over. i.e. take off the wraps, strip the rod and repaint. Let the paint cure for a month to be sure that it is well cured and then start wrapping again.

Or, you could strip the rod, use wet and dry for a final sanding with 600 grit paper, and then, clean it up very well and go ahead and do your wrapping on the unpainted blank. No finish on the blank, no finish to get gummy and bad during the wrapping process.

Good luck

I interpreted his need for color lock was to make a "cross wrap," which I interpreted as being a weave, on the blank. While I agree that in many cases not using color lock (Color preservative = CP) is the right way to go, it does not allow one to get vibrant colors that are often wanted with weaves.

What needs to be done, if vibrant colors are wanted, AND a painted blank is wanted, is to find a solution that that meets both criteria. If that is what is wanted, then find a paint and CP combination that works. Most likely that will be auto paint, then the weave, then CP, then wrap epoxy. Tested before doing it on the blank.

If a glossy blank without paint is wanted, then Permaseal or Lumiseal over a stripped blank, then the weaves/wraps, then CP, then wrap epoxy should work. Tested before doing it on the blank.