Got my Mudhole order yesterday and discovered Mudholes Blank Diameter Chart is incorrect, at least is is for the blank I got. I ordered an American Tackle exposed blank reel seat that comes with an insert. According to the chart the ID of the insert should go down to where I wanted it but the blank was actually about .5 mm plus larger than the chart says. Did not discover this until after I expoxied the insert inside the seat. Now the seat will not go down far enough. So, my problem is how do I remove the insert from the seat? Am I just Screwed and need to order another seat which I know would be the easiest thing to do?


Thanks in Advance!!

Can you ream it out?

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

John Cates Wrote:
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> Can you ream it out?

John that is my question. The insert is pretty hard--What could I use to ream it out, or can I?

X10 on Jonhs comment. Ream out the seat until it will fit all right.

You can take a drill bit and wrap it with sand paper and chuck it into your drill to take care of the reaming job very nicely.

I'll see what I can do

You can either bore the seat out on a lathe, or use a round bastard file, or perhaps even a stout tapered reamer, to increase the diameter. If you use a reamer, make sure to blow out the inside of the seat bore when checking the fit. Otherwise you may have a small piece of grit scratch the rod blank in a place where it may show.

...........

As Mr. Kirkman pointed out, a round file works pretty well for use as a reamer.

Here is my collection of various sized round file on which I have sharpened the tips and ground down the butt of the file to be a uniform and linear size so that when it is chucked into a chuck, the file runs true.

When using the rile as a reamer, put the drill in reverse or counterclockwise rotation. Then, you force the file in against the spinning spine of the file. By turning the file in this direction, you don't have the file screwing itself into the opening and possible splitting the item that you are trying to ream.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

I have used these files for years, and no maintenance is required - other than the occasional cleaning.

By using the appropriate file that is as close as possible to the size hole you are reaming will make the job go more quickly. For example, when reaming cork, I start with the smallest file and go larger as needed to get the hole sized correctly.

Didn't know you could get a rat tail fill that's at or over 1/2 inch in diameter???

What I would do would be to order the right part and save the one you have for a later build. There is always another build around the corner.

Michael Danek Wrote:
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> What I would do would be to order the right part
> and save the one you have for a later build.
> There is always another build around the corner.

That was a thought Michael but I tried an earlier stated technique and it worked like a champ---I'm all set now. Thanks for all the advice everyone!!

you can use a 3/8 dia. file to ream out a hole that is a lot bigger like 5/8 dia hole or larger , with out any trouble , the hole dz not have to be perfect ,
it only has to pass the butt of the rod , after it is installed no one will see the inside , go slow it will work for you

William Sidney
AK

I realize the problem is solved, but a little different take on the suggestion that Roger supplied about wrapping a drill bit with sand paper ..... I took a piece of 1/4" steel dowel rod and cut a 1" deep slot in the end. Cut a piece of 1" wide plumbers emery cloth a few inches long, slip it in the slot and go to town. It's a little more forgiving if your shaft goes off center because the strip flexes.

I've reamed out a few aluminum winding checks using it as well. The only thing is it will make extremely sharp edges on the winding check so you need to chamfer the edges a bit so it won't cut the blanks surface.

David Baylor Wrote:
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> I realize the problem is solved, but a little
> different take on the suggestion that Roger
> supplied about wrapping a drill bit with sand
> paper ..... I took a piece of 1/4" steel dowel rod
> and cut a 1" deep slot in the end. Cut a piece of
> 1" wide plumbers emery cloth a few inches long,
> slip it in the slot and go to town. It's a little
> more forgiving if your shaft goes off center
> because the strip flexes.
>
> I've reamed out a few aluminum winding checks
> using it as well. The only thing is it will make
> extremely sharp edges on the winding check so you
> need to chamfer the edges a bit so it won't cut
> the blanks surface.

Thats a great idea!!