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Winding Check Questions
Posted by: Steven Corvin (---.lightspeed.brhmal.sbcglobal.net)
Date: February 03, 2018 01:20PM

Do most builders after their blank arrives locate the components and measure then re-order the winding checks? Also is rubber/vinyl or the aluminum checks preferred by most.Beginner rod builder on 3rd rod.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/03/2018 01:31PM by Steven Corvin.

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Re: Winding Check Questions
Posted by: Lance Schreckenbach (---.lightspeed.hstntx.sbcglobal.net)
Date: February 03, 2018 02:35PM

You need to know where your reel seat is going and the length and types of grips your using. A lot of us use the same blanks over and over so we know what to order. If I get a new blank that I haven't built on before I will wait to get the winding checks if they are metal, if I am lucky will already have them in my inventory of components. The rubber ones stretch so you can use them on a variety of blank sizes. You can also paint them as well as any of the metallic ones. I usually always coat mine with wrapping epoxy when I am applying it to the wraps/thread. Many builders do not do this. If it is just a "plain Jane" rod I will use rubber/plastic checks, if it is more upper end I will paint the rubber / plastic checks or use metallic ones. It is really your preference don't be afraid to to use whatever you think will work or look good. I mostly use Testers model paint to paint them, just make sure they are dry before you coat them with epoxy. Also you can ream out winding checks if they are a little too small.

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Re: Winding Check Questions
Posted by: chris newkirk (198.14.231.---)
Date: February 03, 2018 03:22PM

Some supply places will send the correct size checks if you let them know where you want them on the rod.

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Re: Winding Check Questions
Posted by: Spencer Phipps (---.hsd1.or.comcast.net)
Date: February 03, 2018 03:23PM

Steve,
Never drop a metal winding check down a blank or by accident, they can seize on the blank and you'll never get them off without scratching the blank. I cradle them on two finger under the check and ease them into place. I've got lots of rods without winding checks, if the fit and finish on my cork is good there isn't a need for them.

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Re: Winding Check Questions
Posted by: Spencer Phipps (---.hsd1.or.comcast.net)
Date: February 03, 2018 03:25PM

Steve,
Never drop a metal winding check down a blank or by accident, they can seize on the blank and you'll never get them off without scratching the blank. I cradle them on two finger under the check and ease them into place. I've got lots of rods without winding checks, if the fit and finish on my cork is good there isn't a need for them.

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Re: Winding Check Questions
Posted by: Michael Danek (---.alma.mi.frontiernet.net)
Date: February 03, 2018 05:47PM

Agree with Spencer, also, I prefer the black rubber/vinyl checks for a couple reasons. They are pretty tolerant regarding sizing, and when totally encapsulated with a small filet of wrap epoxy, they almost disappear (and never will deteriorate). I really don't like all the flashy winding checks.

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Re: Winding Check Questions
Posted by: David Parsons (---.s16300.c3-0.drf-ubr1.atw-drf.pa.cable.rcncustomer.com)
Date: February 03, 2018 06:13PM

Steve there is a formula where you take the butt dia - tip dia and blank length to come up with the taper of the blank pre inch then add up your handle length to find out the place where your winding check will go and what size you will need. I hope this helps it should get you close I think I read it in a rod maker issue.

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Re: Winding Check Questions
Posted by: steve schuster (---.socal.res.rr.com)
Date: February 03, 2018 07:25PM

Steve, you may want to consider an integral epoxy winding check.
They are pretty easy to apply while the rod is turning on the dryer.
Just build up layers of epoxy until you get the desired taper.
You can then wrap your favorite thread up the taper until you get close to your front grip.
(use a loose tension, or the thread will drop off when you get near the grip)
Tape the tag end to the grip, epoxy the wrap, and there you have it!

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Re: Winding Check Questions
Posted by: Steven Corvin (---.lightspeed.brhmal.sbcglobal.net)
Date: February 04, 2018 11:13PM

Thanks for all the comments.

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Re: Winding Check Questions
Posted by: Robert A. Guist (---.dhcp.embarqhsd.net)
Date: February 05, 2018 12:57PM

Hello Steven.

How many rods with checks do you think you will build?
I knew I would build more than "a few" so I purchased one of every size of a check I liked.
So now I have a check to fit, if I use one of my sizing set I just order a replacement, or if I don't want to go with my standard check I at least know the size I need so I can order the exact one I want for that build.

If you don't like that route you can always mic it.


Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

Bridgeton, NC.

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Re: Winding Check Questions
Posted by: Steven Corvin (---.lightspeed.brhmal.sbcglobal.net)
Date: February 05, 2018 07:49PM

Thanks Bob that is probably the route I will take.

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Re: Winding Check Questions
Posted by: Seth Johnson (---.williams.com)
Date: February 08, 2018 04:00PM

David Parsons Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Steve there is a formula where you take the butt
> dia - tip dia and blank length to come up with the
> taper of the blank pre inch then add up your
> handle length to find out the place where your
> winding check will go and what size you will need.
> I hope this helps it should get you close I think
> I read it in a rod maker issue.

Does it look something like this, or is there more to it?

L = Blank Length (in)
T = Tip Top Size
B = Butt Diameter (in)
C = Coordinate on blank in question (in)
D = Diameter of coordinate (mm)

D=(25.4*(B-C*((B-(T/64))/L)))

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