So now that I have the blank of my dreams, I'm trying to figure out my guides and layout. I've done a ton of Cyber research and it sounds like there is nothing set in stone when it comes to spiral wrapping.
So, here is my brainstorm and theories. Please chime in if you please.
The rod is a rainshadow 606-250 being used for halibut. So no casting. So are the only real requirements are that the line not touch the blank during the spiral under load? And follow the curve of the blank on the underside, just like spinning guides? How many guides is best to make the spiral? I would think 4 would decrease chances of the line touching the blank? It is a lighter rod so it will have more bow under load. Am I wrong with this theory?
So I was thinking about using Fuji K guides. I really want want titanium frames.( Because its cool). But I was thinking I would do the spiral with double foot guides in 20,16,12 and 8. Then running guides in single foot 6's or 5's. Total number of guides would be around 9 then a tip. Are single foot guides ok in halibut rod? Especially small 6's or 5's? Is there something I am overlooking? Should I do locking wraps on the runners?

Also I see there are recommendations from Batson on some of their blanks for guide spacing, but not this one. Anyone have a suggestion on spacing?

Again this is me learning on the fly. Please advise.

Thanks, Derek.

because it is different spacing for any rod tape them on in normal position set the tip top in the down position and load up the rod then rotate the guides one at a time from the butt to tip all but the first stripper keep it at 180 top position. I usually do a 25-30 ,then 40-45, 50-65 75-90, 120-180 and then 4-6 runners
a lot of the builders have been hacking the process by just going to 45 from the stripper but that some times causes the line to rub the blank

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

Derek,
Pretty easy to figure out the guide train.

Take your candidate guides, tape them into the candidate positions for their location, run line through the guides and tip, and then load up the rod as if it were in a bug fish battle.

Check the line flow. Make sure that the line is essentially following the countour of the loaded blank with just enough pressure on the line to keep the line tight - with the blank loaded.

If you have a large space between the line and the blank, decrease the spacing of the adjacent guides or add a guide. If the line is following the contour of the loaded blank, with virtually no pressure on a given blank, then delete that guide as being unnecessary.

---------------
With respect to the guides used to spiral the line:
Remember, the guide that is essentially at 90 degrees to the blank, if you do use a guide at that location - has nearly no pressure on the guides. Also, the guides use to spiral the line need to be very short guides, i.e. very close to the blank, since thier only purpose is to essentially keep the line off of the blank. I realize that you said that you wanted to use K guides - but why? One of the very big advantages of using a K guide is to prevent wind knots when casting. As you said, you are not going to be casting. Yes, you said that you wanted to use Titanium guides to be cool. But - why use such an expensive guide when weight is actually complete foreign in the use of this particular rod. You are building a big tool to catch big fish, are not casting and I suspect that will be in a rod holder much of the time.

But, of course, it is always your choice.

Good luck

p.s.
Just a randomly picked example of a commercial fishing rod for some picture ideas.
[www.halibutfishingrods.com]

I suppose that if I were building a Halibut rods designed for 30-200 lb fish, I would likely be using boat guides similar to this one:
[www.getbitoutdoors.com]


Here is a page with a bunch of videos showing folks catching Halibut. You can stop any of the videos at any time to check over the rods that they are using for some ideas.

[www.youtube.com]

Derek,
Here is a slightly different - but still similar blank with a guide and setup recommendation for a spiral wrapped rod from Batson:

file:///C:/Users/REW/Downloads/RCKJB600-210%20Casting%20Spiral%20wrap.pdf

I would suggest that you start here with their guide and spacing recommendations and then go from there.

Notice the guide recommendations?

[www.utmostenterprises.com]

Good luck



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/28/2018 11:10AM by roger wilson.

Derek,
I've got the formula off my halibut rods, but it would imply you like the same length rear grip/fore grip that I do, these affect guide spacing because they effect where your reel is. If your fine with a 10 inch smooth butt rear grip length, and 8 inch fore grip, I'll send it. No need for all those guide sizes, a 20 than all 8's will work fine in a spiral.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/28/2018 12:31PM by Spencer Phipps.

Those are all valid points. K guides aren't the best choice.
I really like the idea of running just 1 larger guide then running just one smaller size for the rest.
Is it still ok to use single foot guides as runners on a halibut rod? Or am I asking for trouble?

Dereck, call Utmost and leave your phone number. And unhide your email for this site.

Derek,
Strength wise it may be ok, but from a transport, both on and off the boat point of view, double foot guides are a safer choice. More damage is done to rods getting and going than fishing, and since it's a big tipped short rod you'll probably not notice any downside to them.

Why not one guide to transition to the bottom of the blank?
I would think a simple spiral would solve this problem.