wanted it for a handle turning lathe

new corded drill got 1 for Christmas didn't run true going couldn't find one that was right back to the store and trying several others of the same model a Hitachi about a 100.00 cost tried other makes and they all were wobbly totally disappointed with they way a lot of things are made these days just junk at best . what ever happened to quality control and craftsman ship. the reason I chose it was it had a speed adjustment on the trigger for the speed @ 0 - 2300 rpm great idea but just not quality so the search begins again for a good variable hand drill

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

I'm a marine mechanic by trade, and shipyard life is a rough environment for power tools, drills and grinders in particular. Even though they're produced in China now, Milwaukee drills are still the best on the market as far as I'm concerned. We've thrown out buckets full of Dewalt's and Craftsman's.

I completely agree with Jay!!!! Milwaukee makes some of the best. Many of the big names have dropped quality to please the general public price point and in return are now JUNK.

Milwaukee and Bosch are probably going to be your best bets.

...........

Matthew,
I am really surprised on your statement about a drill chuck that does not run true.
Have you tried the DeWalt drill?
Have you tried the Makita drill?

I have some of each and every one runs dead true.

----
The big negative comment that I have about the Milwaukee drill is the poor speed control that the ones that I have have on their drill.
i,.e. I have two of the 1/2 inch and 2 of the 3/8th corded Mlwaukee and expecially in the 3/8ths drills have a very poor speed controller. I have replaced the speed controllers on both of them and the replacement controllers are just as bad as the original.

-----
The other thing to ask, is it the drill bearing and shaft that has the wobble, or is it a bad chuck that is causing the wobble. Open the chuck all of the way, Remove the left hand screw that is in the bottom of chuck that holds the chuck in place.

Then, you can spin up the drill and check the output shaft to be true. I expect that it is. But, if the chuck continues to wobble, then get a replacement drill chuck. It could be that a lower quality chuck is being put on the drills that you selected.

To remove the chuck, after you have the hold down screw removed, insert the largest bolt that the chuck will hold. Then, use a vice grip to tightly grip the bolt close to the chuck. Then, with the drill laying on a bench with the chuck extending over the edge of the bench, give the vice grip a good wack with a big hammer. The chuck will unscrew in a conventional anti clockwise direction. When it comes time to replace the chuck or a replacement chuck screw it on, put the bolt back the chuck and as before wack the vice grip with a big hammer in a clock wise direction to make the chuck tight on the drill head shaft.

Good luck

If you purchased a 1/2 inch drill, you might try replacing the stock chuck with this one:

[www.amazon.com]

If you purchased a 3/8th drill, you might try replacing the stock chuck with this one:

[www.amazon.com]

Both of these chucks have a very tight tolerance on the total runout of the chuck.

Good luck

roger wilson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Matthew,
> I am really surprised on your statement about a
> drill chuck that does not run true.
> Have you tried the DeWalt drill?
> Have you tried the Makita drill?
>
> I have some of each and every one runs dead true.
>
>
> ----
> The big negative comment that I have about the
> Milwaukee drill is the poor speed control that the
> ones that I have have on their drill.
> i,.e. I have two of the 1/2 inch and 2 of the
> 3/8th corded Mlwaukee and expecially in the 3/8ths
> drills have a very poor speed controller. I have
> replaced the speed controllers on both of them and
> the replacement controllers are just as bad as the
> original.
>
> -----
> The other thing to ask, is it the drill bearing
> and shaft that has the wobble, or is it a bad
> chuck that is causing the wobble. Open the chuck
> all of the way, Remove the left hand screw that is
> in the bottom of chuck that holds the chuck in
> place.
>
> Then, you can spin up the drill and check the
> output shaft to be true. I expect that it is.
> But, if the chuck continues to wobble, then get a
> replacement drill chuck. It could be that a
> lower quality chuck is being put on the drills
> that you selected.
>
> To remove the chuck, after you have the hold down
> screw removed, insert the largest bolt that the
> chuck will hold. Then, use a vice grip to tightly
> grip the bolt close to the chuck. Then, with the
> drill laying on a bench with the chuck extending
> over the edge of the bench, give the vice grip a
> good wack with a big hammer. The chuck will
> unscrew in a conventional anti clockwise
> direction. When it comes time to replace the
> chuck or a replacement chuck screw it on, put the
> bolt back the chuck and as before wack the vice
> grip with a big hammer in a clock wise direction
> to make the chuck tight on the drill head shaft.
>
> Good luck
Why the surprise it is new out of the box and is just junk I am not in the mode of buying something brand new and working out the bugs that shouldn't be there in the first place because someone failed to to their job properly.
PT 2 I am not going to buy something to fix the problem and add to the cost let alone the time to do it .
PT3 as for speed control I don't depend on the factory trigger when using it for a lathe propose I do add a switch box and standard rheostat switch so that I can have fine speed control, like the same setup most add to their wrapping lathe. There is no need for a forward/reverse switch as that is easy access on the drill handle.
PT4 should have known better as I have a couple other Milwaukee power tools that are 30 + years old and still work like new never a problem other than the guy that I loaned my saw all to and he cut the dang cord.

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

Keep in mind that a drill is not a lathe. The bit can be centered and then the hand holding the drill can accommodate what the drill is doing. The bit will still bore true, or at least as true as the hand holding the drill. A lathe, however, is different. The headstock is fixed whereas a hand drill chuck is not. So you may be expecting a bit much out of the drill, because you are using it in a capacity that it was not designed for.

Not saying you can't do better and many people use drills for lathe power, but they weren't designed for that.

................

I would like to see how you could drill a round hole with a drill that has 1/16 run out and how round that hole would end up being
I Know the fact that it isn't a lathe but done right it can be the same as they have press attachments for hand drills and dremel tools to make them a drill press for hobbyists.
If I were building rods like I did back in the 60-80 I would have all the top line gear but at this point it isn't necessary to invest hundreds in machine tools to make 20 -30 rods a year

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

Because a hand drill is free floating. The bit can remain true even if the drill doesn't (and won't). The same doesn't hold true for a lathe, where the chuck is fixed and doesn't float free.

...............

Matthew,
Read and understand your comments.

However, as I mentioned previously, I have a half dozen corded drills and as far as I am concerned, all run true with very little to 0 run out on the end of a drill rod chucked into the drill.

I also agree with Tom that a drill is normally a hand held device and a bit of wobbling around is normally not a big deal. But, over the years, I have used all of my drills in a clamp of some sort for unique purposes and they drill true.

The only thing that I could suggest to you Matthew, is to return any drill that you purchased that did not run true and just run down the line of drills in the store that you are in until you find a drill that is not junk and that does run true.

I will say that I did have a batch of inexpensive cordless drills that all had junk chucks on them. The shaft themselves and the motors and bearings were fine. But, somewhat similar to what you found, the chucks did not to the job for which they were designed.

Best of luck and let us know your solution to your problem.

--------------
Having said that, even though hand held drills normally have a screw on chuck and lathes and drill presses normally have a taper chuck; that relatively speaking the chuck that is mounted on a tapered shaft will by its very nature tend to have much less run out than the typical screw on chuck.

Good luck

run true ?? if you put in the chuck a small bit it can happen , to test a drill you need to use a 1/8 inch or larger bit , if you use a small drill bit it can happen, all drills have a min size ratting ,
just a tidbit

William Sidney
AK