Hello all, hoping for some quick advice on a build I’m about to start. The blank is a Phenix Titan Popping rod, 2-piece construction. The part I’m having trouble with is the fact that the lower section has no taper whatsoever, the diameter of the upper and lower sections are quite different. I’d like to have hypalon grips but I figure I’ll have a @#$%& of a time sliding them on, as I cannot use the taper of the rod to my advantage. The diameter is 0.74”, so it looks like .625” looks like the best ID for the job. Does anyone have any better ideas than muscling it on and potentially bunching the hypalon up? Thanks in advance.

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You may have to utilize the tip section for your taper.

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Tom, I may try that, but like I mentioned, the two sections have significantly different ODs. Do you think doing that will still give me an advantage?

you will need to ream the grips pretty close to the size of the blank and then just butter up the blank and ad some to the inside of the grip and it should slide to where you need to have it with out any problems and the epoxy that you use will fill in any voids from reaming and hold it firmly in place with no possibility of slippage
wipe off the excess epoxy and let it cure for the mfg recommendation
I would use a slow cure 15 min or 30 min epoxy if you would need to make any adjustments one way or the other

I also would give the grip that you are choosing a light ream to rough it up inside the difference in the dia of the grip and blank is .12 not that much should slip easily with a well buttered bland and with the addition of some to the inside dia of the grip

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

It will help, but as Matthew mentions there is not necessarily any reason to have the grips much smaller in ID than the butt's OD. You just need to get the epoxy in the right place to start with so it will lube the blank on the way down, and get just a little help getting the grip started on that butt section. I suggested using the tip section but you could as easily use a tapered dowel, section of scrap rod blank, etc.

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Use the rubber cement method. Get the large ID, no reaming needed.

Dane Griffin Wrote:
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> Rubber cement method? Like what Salt Dawg shows in
> his grip placement video? Can you please explain?
> Thank you.

it is the same process that I detailed for you with the exception he uses brute force to slip fit the grip down the blank.
as he doesn't ream the id of the grip to close blank od doing that further down the road after the rod is exposed to the elements the grips often times split open.
The best advice any one can give you is to hurry up and slow down and do it right the first time so you don't have to do it right the second time.
My advice is to take the extra step and ream the grip close to the blank od better fit and no issues down the line

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

Yea and the grips he uses in the video are correct size for the blank got that did you and if they aren't then what do you do ?? that is where force comes in just push a little harder or take the time to ream it closer to fit.
the difference in what I said is I prefer epoxy as versed rubber cement the wipe effect that your all gaga over is the same with rubber cement or epoxy been doing it since the 60 's that way nothing new old method with new adhesive lubricant.

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

Gaga??? Nope, I got gaga when automatic transmissions came in. If you had trouble with the rubber cement installation method, you may have missed a step in the process. Use it if you want to or not. It is a game changer for a whole lot of rodbuilders. For me, I'm always on the hunt for something that makes the process easier and quicker. And a .625 grip would go like butter on hot toast. I have samples in the shop of some pretty small id grip material on some pretty good sized blanks. Bu what do I know?? At least I don't struggle to ream the stuff.

If the lower section of the blank has no taper is it not possible to load the grip from the rear? Maybe with a little tapered plug on the rear to help get the grip onto the blank?

I've never worked with hypalon
EVA I've worked with
any difference in rubber cement technique.?

Yes you could install it from the rear with the help of some sort of tapered plug or scrap rod section as outlined above in my earlier post. It's not hard and no real force is required.

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Bert,the technique stays the same.There is a minor difference between the two materials and any technique used. The EVA needs to be closer in diameter to the blank than hypalon. The reason being that hypalon can stretch more than the EVA without splitting. When I did my building with hypalon,I would routinely use 1/2 in. hypalon for butt grips on blanks to 3/4 in. or a bit larger. My customers and I preferred the extra hardness/firmness provided by compressing it from the inside out. EVA is not so forgiving. The grip ID needs to be closer to the OD of the blank.

Hi Grant. how well does the rubber cement work with cork?

Can't say Ben. All my cork work is with rings, reamed to fit. Cork won't stretch. Was that a trick question??!!

If there is no taper, and you need a tapered plug to help install from the rear, you'll need a tapered plug to help install from the front. Installing from the rear will make clean-up a LOT easier.

Grant, no, i should have been more explicite..is it a good enough cement to hold rings to each other and hold completed grip to the rod..thanks

Chuck,
Thank you - I'll keep your advice in mind when working with hypalon
great info from experienced users on this forum

Ben, I don't think rubber cement is trustworthy for either application you mention, especially cork rings. I KNOW that epoxy is like a rock for both applications.

thanks, Michael..