Hello, I’m new to the forum and rod building, I have an obsession for ice fishing, and now building ice rods as well. My first two rods are fishable but not pretty, I took my learnings from those two and a week later am quite pleased with my third. I am building on MHX blanks. I really like the action and power, and general quality feel of the blank, but I can’t stand the Color, particularly the green tip. Does anyone know of a good quality ice rod blank that comes with no finish? I really want the raw carbon, I prefer the look and believe it will produce the best functioning rod possible. I asked a vendor here in canada about mhx blank availability with no finish, but I would have to put in a minimum order of 100 blanks. I’m not sure I can commit that kind of cash at the moment. Also, what would be the best method of removing the green from the tip, I don’t really want to just paint over and add more weight. The last rod I built, I wet sanded the green off the tip, 400 grit, then 1000 grit, I did not heat the carbon at all, but it goes against any advice I have received so far. I guess we will find out once the lakes harden here in Saskatchewan. I really love the forum, it has helped me greatly in getting started.

if you want it black and don't like the green then scuff the finish to dull and color it with a black magic marker and put a thin coat of finish on it applying it with a small amount between your fingers or on a foam brush piece all balck and all with a shine

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

That’s a good idea, though I was hoping to get away from finish on the blank all together. I’m getting kind of confused. I have read that sanding a solid carbon blank down to the carbon is a bad idea, but have also read here that a solid carbon blank is not truly custom unless you sand it to your preferred action. I can’t seam to find a clear answer to sand or not to sand? I would definitely enjoy taking a blank down some and playing with the action change associated as well. I am well prepared to deal with the hazards of the dust.

Light sanding is OK as long as you do not get into the carbon fibers. The coloring is a coating, so just take it off, no more.

there is a fine line between sanding and not sanding dependent on the blank the fibers could just chip off if leaving inclusions in the blank that will weaken the blank but if you go about it with just fine grits you shouldn't have the chip out issue.
I would use 400 wet dry to start using it as a wet sand off a couple thousands and then move to a 1000 also being wet sanding process to fine tune that keeps the dust in the water not in the air.
after you do that you really need to re seal open fibers so to keep the weight down to near nothing I would apply either of the following 3 products , Rod Dancer Thread Master One a water based urethane finish cleans up with soap and water, and has a slight smell of vinegar it is as hard when cured as original finish but super thin adding no noticeable weight or impairing the action you produced.
then there is luma seal and perma gloss both of these are xylene based and should be used with good ventilation the same for these a hard gloss finish with out the weight of epoxy and won't impair your desired action

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

Levi,
I have sanded down many solid fiberglass as well as solid graphite blanks. I normally start with 100 grit and spin the blank at 1000 rpm to quick and easy material removal.

I don't know of any minimum size that you can sand the blank down to. i.e. as long as there is material, you can keep sanding if you want until there is no material left.

When I am done with about 1/2 to 2/3rds of the total amount; I will begin using finer grits and will finish up with 1200 grit paper used wet.

I normally never put any finish of any sort back on the raw fiberglass or carbon and the rod blanks hold up just fine. No need to add anything to the bare blank, unless you want to add something for apperance of the blank.

Remember, I am speaking of SOLID blanks made of either fiberglass or graphite materials.

I am NOT Talking about hollow fiberglass or graphite blanks.

p.s.
When doing this sanding, were long sleeved shirts, tight collar, eye protection, breathing protection in the form of a mask and latex or neoprene gloves to protect your body from ingesting glass or carbon fibers from the sanding process.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/04/2017 02:03PM by roger wilson.

Thanks Roger. That’s what I was hoping to hear!

Levi,

You might want to give CitriStrip a try, instead of sanding. Plenty of info in the search, with all dates clicked.

Good luck,

Chris

I've used green Scotch Brite to take the painted finish off of a blank. I actually found it out by accident. lol

It worked well though, and the blank showed no sign of damage.

David, use with citrus strip next time. Works very well

You can sand those solid fiberglass and carbon blanks as much as you want with out any worries