I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2018 Expo
Common Cents Info
CCS Database
Int. Custom Rod Symbol
All American Guides
American Tackle
Angler’s Roost
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
Anglers Workshop
BatsonRainshadowALPS
Bingham Enterprises
Canada Rodbuildersupply
CRB
Cork4Us
CTS Rod Blanks
CTS MAVEN
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Custom Labeling System
DBlue Fishing
Decal Connection
DONART
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
Hitena USA
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mickels Custom Rods
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
Pacific Bay
ProProducts
Reelseatblanks.com
Renzetti Inc.
Rocky Mountain Rod Shop
Rod Components USA
Rodgeeks
RodMaker Magazine
RodMaker Magazine Blog
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
St Croix Rods
Tackleworks
The Rod Room
Trondak U-40
Utmost Enterprises
VisualWRAP/VisualWEAVE
ZipCast

thread finish
Posted by: Reggie Sharpe (---.gtcom.net)
Date: November 02, 2017 06:52PM

i have been having problems with bubbles or it may be specks of trash on my finished epoxy finish. i smoothe them out with a razor blade and put another finish on it but it still comes back as little high specks. is there any way to buff the finish down with out applying another coat of finish? I use ProKote.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: thread finish
Posted by: Phil Erickson (---.dsl.pltn13.sbcglobal.net)
Date: November 02, 2017 07:07PM

The epoxy will not buff, as it is too soft. Sounds like you may be getting dust on the uncured epoxy.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: thread finish
Posted by: Matthew Paul (---.lightspeed.milwwi.sbcglobal.net)
Date: November 02, 2017 07:28PM

it could be that and it could be that the resin has crystals in it and even though you mix it properly it still can crystallize before fully curing ? do you warm your finish before mixing and do you pour it on to a piece of foil on a paper plate to disperse the bubbles do you use a brush or a spatula your brush could be contaminated.
it could be little pieces of thread fuzz from burnishing.
I have tried all the different finishes produced and found that Flex coat is and has been the most dependable epoxy finish well at least for me.
the crystals that I am talking about can be invisible to the eye in the bottle and when mixing but show up after mixed and rod is rolling in the dryer .
it is that time of the year again where temp and humidity can affect your finishing.
here is a link to Flex coat how to a refresher you might want to watch
[youtu.be]

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: thread finish
Posted by: Donald La Mar (---.lightspeed.lsvlky.sbcglobal.net)
Date: November 02, 2017 07:46PM

If it is dust (and even if it's not) check your HVAC and change it unless it's nearly new. If your part of the world is in heating mode, a humidifier to maintain relative humidity at about 30% to 35% can help reduce dust. I use a tent of heavy aluminum foil over turning rods while their finish cures. A drying box would be better. Keep the temperature up as the epoxy cures much quicker at 72 than 68 and thus reduces the time the pesky dust can find the uncured finish. Restrict movement to the extent possible in the finishing area.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: thread finish
Posted by: Lynn Behler (---.97.252.156.res-cmts.leh.ptd.net)
Date: November 02, 2017 08:12PM

Is there a high traffic area above your finishing area? If so those above could be causing loose dirt to fall on your work.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: thread finish
Posted by: Reggie Sharpe (---.gtcom.net)
Date: November 02, 2017 09:01PM

i do appreciate all the advice and help. I do think it might be crystals, but i thought i had it heated too a good temp to were it was really thin, i didnt see but a few bubbles in my mixed epoxy. i watched the video on flexcoat and i loved the high speed turning while putting on the first coat. i have made about 50 rods and this is the first time i have had this problem and this is the third coat i have applied over the decal and rod id sticker. i reckon i will clean it up again and try another coat thats bout all i know to do, again thank you guys for all the help and it was very helpful.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: thread finish
Posted by: Norman Miller (---.lightspeed.jcsnms.sbcglobal.net)
Date: November 02, 2017 09:23PM

I had a problem once with an epoxy finish over a decal, I added another coat of epoxy and it did not solve the problem. I lightly sanded it smooth but did not want to add another coat of epoxy because of the thickness of the epoxy overcoat. So I top coated this section with Permagloss using a foam brush while turning. Came out great! I have also used Permagloss to restore manufactuer’s labels on old well worn store bought rods with good success.
Norm

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: thread finish
Posted by: Reggie Sharpe (---.gtcom.net)
Date: November 02, 2017 09:54PM

i have some Rodancer rod varnish, i do hate to put another coat of epoxy finish on the rod, so so you think i could lightly sand and then apply a coat of this rod varnish that i have?

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: thread finish
Posted by: Matthew Paul (---.lightspeed.milwwi.sbcglobal.net)
Date: November 02, 2017 10:16PM

No No the solvent in the varnish will react with the epoxy and will produce a wrinkled finish
If you not in a hurry order some Perma gloss or luma seal these are both chemical based should be used with adequate ventilation
or there is the Thread Master One from Rod Dancer that is the one I prefer as it is water based and only has a bit of a vinegar smell and gives a high gloss finish and works great over or under epoxy.

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: thread finish
Posted by: Norman Miller (---.lightspeed.jcsnms.sbcglobal.net)
Date: November 02, 2017 10:42PM

I have not tried the RodDancer one part rod finish. I have been looking for something that will give a thin coat over ink that will not dissolve it and still hold up. Maybe I will give it a try. In the past I have used the one part water base finish sold by Gudebrod, it worked ok but not nearly as hard and durable as Permagloss. I still think Permagloss is great stuff for clear coating and refinishing a rod blank, it is quick, easy and gives a great finish that never yellows or comes off.
Norm

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: thread finish
Posted by: Reggie Sharpe (---.gtcom.net)
Date: November 02, 2017 11:03PM

Matthew Paul, i think i will try the ThreadMaster One from Rod Dancer. I assume it will be ok to use it over the name and stickers?

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: thread finish
Posted by: Matthew Paul (---.lightspeed.milwwi.sbcglobal.net)
Date: November 03, 2017 12:07AM

for sure as it is water based and won't cause any bleed of the print and it drys almost as hard as the gloss finish on the blank it is good stuff I use it on my fly rod builds as it goes on thin and 2-3 coats does the trick on them looks just as deep as the epoxy with a lot less added weight than epoxy

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: thread finish
Posted by: Ron Schneider (---.mid.dyn.suddenlink.net)
Date: November 03, 2017 01:23PM

Be Very careful coating over labels, especially old ones with Permagloss.
Or anything like it.
I had a label lift once by simply trying to overcoat.
Now I always use Flex Coat Color Preserver to seal it.
Then anything else over it will not disturb the label (or inscription)

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
schndrod@suddenlink.net
870-424-3381
Fax 870-425-0782

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: thread finish
Posted by: Taylor Belinger (---.se.biz.rr.com)
Date: November 03, 2017 01:51PM

Reggie,

Do you run an alcohol burner after you are done applying finish? That always gets rid of bubbles for me.

Check out our instructional video here: [www.youtube.com]

Taylor Belinger
Creative
Mud Hole Custom Tackle, Inc
400 Kane Ct. | Oviedo, FL 32765
Phone: 407-447-7637 x 113 | Fax: 407-447-7640

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: thread finish
Posted by: Reggie Sharpe (---.gtcom.net)
Date: November 03, 2017 07:55PM

Taylor, i have noticed in all the video's i have watched lately that everyone using a whole lot of epoxy to finish the threads, i have been just mixing up enough to do all my eyes , i reckon i am too conservative. i think it is cystals in my finish atfter i look at my rod today and after i sanded it lightly it i just dont believe it was bubbles. I am going to try the Tthread master one to apply a thin coat over the area i had to redo. do i have to apply the thread master one over the secton of rod or do i just use to touch up the spot i lightly sanded? I use the flexcoat color preserver and i noticed to day when i had the rod out in the sunlight everywhere i use the flexcoat CP it was milky looking under my finish but you could only seee it in the direct sunlight, i have no idea of whats up with that, the is on a CRB orrange rod made up with the Florida Gator theme. i have already learned so much from the few post i have had on this site and i really appreciate all the help, most of what i learn is the hard way by experience even though i did go to a Mudhole rod building class. again i appreciate everyone replying to my post thank you.
Matthew, am i understand you use the thread master one in place of applying an epoxy finsh or did i misunderstand that? and if i use the thread master one to apply over my lightly sanded spots to i just so the spots or i do the whole section over the epoxy finish?
Thanks guys!!!!!

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: thread finish
Posted by: Phil Erickson (---.dsl.pltn13.sbcglobal.net)
Date: November 03, 2017 08:37PM

If you warmed the epoxy before applying, I doubt very much if it is crystals! The crystallization is an effect of lower temperatures and is eliminated by warming the epoxy. If it is contamination from dust, changing coating will not solve the problem.

The milky appearance under the epoxy coat could be from incomplete drying of the CP. If it is still damp, it may itself appear milky or can even cause amine blush, which is a cloudy look.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/03/2017 08:40PM by Phil Erickson.

Options: ReplyQuote


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster