I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2018 Expo
Common Cents Info
CCS Database
Int. Custom Rod Symbol
All American Guides
American Tackle
Angler’s Roost
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
Anglers Workshop
BatsonRainshadowALPS
Bingham Enterprises
Canada Rodbuildersupply
CRB
Cork4Us
CTS Rod Blanks
CTS MAVEN
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Custom Labeling System
DBlue Fishing
Decal Connection
DONART
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
Hitena USA
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mickels Custom Rods
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
Pacific Bay
ProProducts
Reelseatblanks.com
Renzetti Inc.
Rocky Mountain Rod Shop
Rod Components USA
Rodgeeks
RodMaker Magazine
RodMaker Magazine Blog
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
St Croix Rods
Tackleworks
The Rod Room
Trondak U-40
Utmost Enterprises
VisualWRAP/VisualWEAVE
ZipCast

tiptop weight
Posted by: Phil Ewanicki (---.res.bhn.net)
Date: October 30, 2017 05:32PM

How long should a tip-top tube be to offer best strength before it just produces unnecessary weight?

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: tiptop weight
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (Moderator)
Date: October 30, 2017 06:01PM

I assume you mean how long does it need to be to offer enough adhesive surface so that it's not likely to come loose. Well, only about half of the length you see on most tops. However, owing to the wide variety of adhesives used, whether or not the builder (custom or commercial) properly preps the blank tip, inside of tiptop, etc., etc., etc., the makers seem to have added additional length for good margin of error in mounting. In other words, it really depends on how good of a job you do in mounting it.

You could remove about half the tube, use 5-minute epoxy, properly prep everything and not likely ever see a tiptop come loose. But the weight savings would be minimal. On larger tiptops, sure you'd save more weight, but the blanks they're intended for are fairly powerful to begin with and wouldn't likely show much benefit from such weight reduction.

Good question, though.

................

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: tiptop weight
Posted by: Donald La Mar (---.lightspeed.lsvlky.sbcglobal.net)
Date: October 30, 2017 06:02PM

Is your question in regards to fly, spin or bait casters? And what strength are you inquiring about - adhesive strength to the blank or something else?

If you are asking with regard to fly rod tip tops separating from the blank, think it far more important to prepare the blank tip and to fill the tube with glue or adhesive than is the tup top tube length. Don't build enough spin or bait cast to know for sure, but suspect it is true for them too.

Frankly, if a knot or kink fouls at the tip top, I'd rather the tip top separate from the blank than for the blank to be at risk.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: tiptop weight
Posted by: Drew Klein (74.10.173.---)
Date: October 31, 2017 08:41AM

How exactly does one prepare the rod tip? The videos I learned from just put the adhesive in the tip top and slide it on. Should I be sanding the rod tip or something else? Thanks!

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: tiptop weight
Posted by: Donald La Mar (---.lightspeed.lsvlky.sbcglobal.net)
Date: October 31, 2017 10:00AM

Drew

The process you describe works and works well enough. Some of us take a couple extra steps, the first of which is to clean a blank, including the tip, with a solvent. I use plain old rubbing alcohol on a soft cloth. If you're using an epoxy adhesive you can go for a water break free surface prep (See Surface Preparation in the Library.), but you've got to be VERY careful not to get carried away. I usually tape off the tip top area, VERY, VERY LIGHTLY sand with 400 grit paper and call it a day. If you have small riffle files a quick filing will rough the tip top tube interior.

Again, your process works. I've slapped tip tops on a bunch of gloss blanks with no prep other than cleaning with only a couple adhesion failures which might have been more rod storage temperature or other issues.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: tiptop weight
Posted by: Michael Danek (---.alma.mi.frontiernet.net)
Date: October 31, 2017 10:34AM

Any thoughts on what is too short with respect to breaking the tip of the blank in bending? I interpreted the original question in that direction. On some blanks the bending stress would be almost negligible due to the tip pointing at the lure, but on stiffer ones, that is not the case. If you consider having a tube length of about 1/8 inch, that clearly would be too risky. At what length does the risk become low enough to be negligible again?

I think this whole issue is a wasted worry considering the very small mass that might be saved.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: tiptop weight
Posted by: Donald La Mar (---.lightspeed.lsvlky.sbcglobal.net)
Date: October 31, 2017 11:34AM

Michael

Don't know with certainty the answer to your question, but suspect this is one of those counter intuitive things where it might be the longer tube associated with more risk instead of the shorter tube.

Regardless, the tip top is guide #0 and ought to be considered its relationship to guide #1. If guide #1 is severely out of position down the blank, it seems unlikely a longer tip top tube would save the day and perhaps make a bad situation worse.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: tiptop weight
Posted by: Phil Ewanicki (---.res.bhn.net)
Date: October 31, 2017 12:53PM

Michael: I was thinking about the degree of perfection in strength and application of adhesive - longer tube, less critical - but your speculation about a short tip-top tube leverage causing breakage is food for thought. Agree that weight of 20 wraps of thread or a couple millimeters of tip-top tube are beyond human sensation.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: tiptop weight
Posted by: Eugene Moore (---.dhcp.stls.mo.charter.com)
Date: October 31, 2017 01:37PM

Phil,
I normally target at 6 to 7 times the blank dia.
I fill the tube with adhesive and scrape off the excess after application.

Gene

Options: ReplyQuote


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster