Hello!

I am trying to build a first rod (ice rod). I want a rod for panfishing and occasional bass.
I have a Fenwick Elite rod (ETI28ML), supposed to be "medium light". I like this rod,
but I like a rod that is slightly lighter power more.

So I have purchased a blank (CIB-30-MHX) from MudHole, but this blank is much heavier
power than I expected, although it says "light". I don't know if I can return it and get
something lighter (meaning I have only one choice, going to ultra light...), but I would
like to pick up the right blank next time (too bad that I cannot feel blanks before purchase
over the Internet).

Taking the Fenwick Elite ETI28ML as a reference (same or preferably slightly lighter power),
which blank should I pick, any suggestion? I have purchased other components for
CIB-30-MHX (tip size 2.5/64 inch, butt size 0.145 inch), so I don't want to go a blank with
significantly different dimensions.

Thank you very much!

I have never had any luck buying ice rod blanks over the Internet that fit my needs. Most the time I find myself putting them in the lathe and wet sanding the blanks to fit the action/power I'm looking for. It's a tedious job but solid carbon blanks work the best, and out perform any factory store bought rod imo.

call MH they are more than happy to help you and do accept returns or do a swap so you get as close as possible to what your needs are

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

Hi Patrick,

Thank you for your input. Sanding down is another idea I was also thinking, but as a beginner,
I thought if I could get something right off of a shelf, that would be a better option... I am glad to
know that a solid carbon blanks can be sanded down to your liking though. Once sanded, how
do you re-coat the blank?

Hi Matthew,

OK, good to know MH has a good customer service (although they didn't do anything wrong...).
Since I picked up a light power blank and it is actually very heavy action to me, I am actually
worried that even an UL blank may be too heavy and stiff and knowing that they are located in FL,
I am afraid they may not know that much about ice fishing rods. Anyway, I will try and see how
it will turn out.

Any more comments are always welcome!

Thank you!

Have you taped guides and a handle with a reel on the new blank to static test it against your other rod with sinkers, etc. hanging from each rod to compare them? It's hard to feel the difference in them accurately just by flexing the blank in your hand.

There's only so much flex to be had in a solid carbon blank's tip, so you likely are not going to gain a large amount of flex by sanding this blank compared to your Fenwick rod before it will become too brittle and break. Most of MHX's solid carbon ice blanks (as well as other suppliers) have similar tip sizes that average around .040" so out of the box they won't be greatly different at the tip, but will vary for power in the mid section and butt depending on the taper.

What kind of fish and what lures are you planning to use this for?

Try the mhx power noodle (FIB-26ul-MHX) I love that rod for my panfishing

Their quiverstick blank is a better option if you want to stick with carbon CIB-32UL-MHX

Just sand the blank you have...its much easier than you would think. Chuck it up in a drill that's clamped to a workbench and have it it. Start out sanding toward the tip with 200 grit (you can go heavier once you get used to it) paper, measure often with a caliper, and have fun. You're not building a true custom rod if you're not sanding your own blanks :)

When done, leave the blank naked, prime and paint with Rustoleum x2, or coat with finish

Do an internet search for ice rod building blanks and supplies. You will find a couple of specialty shops that can help you.

Hello Dan,

I agree with you about comparing just a blank and an actual rod, but in this case, it is so obviously
stiffer than my supposed-to-be ML Fenwick, I am pretty sure there is no need to do such precise
setting up and comparing. I am targeting mostly panfish, perch, occasional bass with a size 10-20
jig tied to 2-4 lbs nylon or fluorocarbon line.

Robert and Mat,

Yes, I spoke with MH and their recommendation was the Quiverstick. When I found MH as
a rod building supplier, I really didn't keep looking since they seem to have a very good variety,
but as Roger suggested, I think I may have to look for some other options.

Roger,

Thanks! Yes, I started looking for smaller companies located up North and found a few suppliers.
I will see what I come up with...

Great helps, much appreciated!

Thanks.

I've had great success sanding blanks from Sportsmans Direct (HWI line) in light and medium power for making carbon panfish or walleye jigging blanks. I use automotive urethane paints and 2 part catalyst clear coat for the blanks I choose to finish doing so using my airbrush. I've also left the blank "naked", finishing with a 1200 grit wet sand. Either method has worked great for me. If your looking for the super light noodle-like tips in place of spring bobbers fiberglass blanks are the ticket at a fraction of the cost compared to carbon but you do sacrifice the sensitivity a carbon blank inherently has.

Momo,
You can catch some very nice fish on very very very light action rods through the ice:

[www.youtube.com]

Patrick,

Thank you very much for sharing the tips to sand/paint blanks. Now I have 2 blanks,
one from MH and another that turns out to be one of you just mentioned. The 2nd
one is much better, but I realized that my preference must be really toward "light"
compared with other people, I guess. I can now play with the blank from MH, so
I will see how fun to sand.

Roger,

The Youtube video looks extreme! I am not sure if I can play a big fish like that that
well with such a light and short rod. But I have to confess that I regularly use my
Fenwick ice rod when I go to creeks around here (open water fishing) and catch
sunfish, chubs, minnows, and once I hooked an approx. 15 in smallmouth that I was
able to pull out of the water. But not like the trout in the movie and I didn't need to
pull the smallmouth through a small opening!

What sized lures are you using? Are you watching the tip top of bite detection or watching the line for bite detection?

Hello Buzz,

I use size 10-20 (well, maybe 16) ice jigs tipped with a plastic or a wax worm.
I do use a spring bobber, but I watch the line as well.

Update:
Well, since I now have 2 blanks, I have decided to sand one blank (one from MH) last
weekend. I used an electric drill and inserted the blank into the chuck. I taped the last
1 inch or so with masking tape for protection. I used #400 and #1000 sandpapers.
I wet the sandpapers to minimize spreading the carbon dust.

I have to admit that sanding it down was not too difficult, much simpler than I thought.
The blank has taper already, so you don't even need to keep the blank centered (hence
a regular drill works). I lightly pinched the blank with the wet sandpaper while the drill
was spinning. I smoothly moved my fingers to the rod tip while pinching the blank.
To change the profile of the taper, I changed the finger pressure as I moved my finger
along the blank. With the wet sandpapers, no dust was produced and no heating was
felt while sanding.

Sanding itself was not too difficult, but I have to say sanding it down to as I exactly want
was pretty difficult, although I am very much satisfied with the result.

Now I am gluing the handle, reel seat etc. Since I am coupling it with a finesse baitcaster,
I am planning to do spiral wrapping. Hopefully it will turn out good and the blank will not
break. I know I weakened the blank by sanding! My understanding is as long as I have
a monotonic taper to the tip, no carbon fibers are cut and the tip should be as strong as
the carbon fibers left in the blank. Hopefully my theory is correct and I sanded the blank
down correctly.

Momo