A good Epoxy job on your new rod is a must for most of us so her is a little tip for those that my need a bit of help to get the best Epoxy job on a new rod. First let me tell that there is no need to put more then one applications of Epoxy on most rods unless it is some kind of big game saltwater rod or in the 45 lb and up kind of fish. One of my best tricks is with Epoxy and and getting the perfect finish that I am sure most of us would love to be able to get on all there rods. First use lite heat on your epoxy which most do already and use the heat to both thin and clear out the bubble in your finish. The next thing is to apply your finish to your guide wrap and do so at a slow turning speed but most speeds will work to. As soon as you apply your finish to your first guide just run your heat source under the Epoxy on your rod but not so much that it will hurt the rod and do it a few seconds at a time. When heating the Epoxy only do it enough so that the Epoxy starts to thin out or drip and not get super "Hot"and then let the extra Epoxy start to drip off your guide wrap. When the Epoxy is thin and drippy enough you can take the end of your brush and simply remove some of that extra Epoxy from your wrap and once done you should have nice smooth finished guide and very nice looking just as though you are a pro.

Glenn McMurrian

Glenn,
I do a somewhat similar process, except that I don't heat the finish initially before applying.
I do heat as needed, but try to minimize the number of heating cycles on the finish.

I mix up the finish, quickly apply to the rod at speeds up to 200 rpm.

Then, I will slow down the rod, and go over each wrap, hitting each wrap with a bit of heat to thin and let the finish flow nicely. But, I never stop the rod from turning, and just continue to check on each wrap to insure that I have a full and even coating. If necessary, I will add to, or delete from each wrap so that the finish is perfect. Once perfect, I transfer to my drum dryer for overnight drying.

I also seldom ever apply more than one coat of finish. Just find that there is no need to apply more than one coat in about 90% of the cases. Once in a while I might find a defect on a wrap finish that will require further clean up and added finnish application.

Every time that an added coat is required, there is about a 24 hour period involved. For maximum production, minimizing time insures maximum profits on a build.

Good luck.

Nice to know that there are others rod builders that have the same idea and are not afraid to fry different thing’s and as for drying I do it in some what the same way but I start out at 21 RPM’s let turn for about 30 min’s or just until the Epoxy starts to firm up and transfer my rod to a 4 RPM motor to finish it off. Roger I almost never use more then one coat of finish unless it is really needed or unless it is a super heavy rod with very big guides and even then I only use two coats of Epoxy. I am sure if more people tried putting finish on this way that most would just love the results.

Glenn McMurrian

I must be doing it all wrong. I use a mixer so I don't have to worry about a lot of bubbles. I apply at speed, not flinging stuff speed, but good speed. Might just be age but edges seem smoother than when at dryer motor speed.. I use a throw away brush that I clean and reuse, don' t wash my hands before starting, use the same wrapper that I use for cork and EVA. Dip the brush and go, dip and go, dip and.......so on. Use a spatula on long butt wraps. Go back and touch up with a pointed tool, turn by hand for an hour and always do two coats. I just don't understand why it always turns out perfectly smooth and glass like. Seems like I might not be using enough steps to my process, maybe not mixing long enough, or maybe too long? Maybe I should be stirring so I can have more bubbles to pop with more heat? I'll just have to figure out what I'm doing wrong that keeps resulting in a great finish.

Grant Darby Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I must be doing it all wrong. I use a mixer so I
> don't have to worry about a lot of bubbles. I
> apply at speed, not flinging stuff speed, but good
> speed. Might just be age but edges seem smoother
> than when at dryer motor speed.. I use a throw
> away brush that I clean and reuse, don' t wash my
> hands before starting, use the same wrapper that I
> use for cork and EVA. Dip the brush and go, dip
> and go, dip and.......so on. Use a spatula on
> long butt wraps. Go back and touch up with a
> pointed tool, turn by hand for an hour and always
> do two coats. I just don't understand why it
> always turns out perfectly smooth and glass like.
> Seems like I might not be using enough steps to my
> process, maybe not mixing long enough, or maybe
> too long? Maybe I should be stirring so I can have
> more bubbles to pop with more heat? I'll just
> have to figure out what I'm doing wrong that
> keeps resulting in a great finish.

Like.

All roads lead to Rome , is an old European saying.

Take your advice with a grain of salt.

Those using heat on the epoxy that's on the blank, what is your source of heat? How do you know how much to use? The last time I used heat on the epoxy over a rod repair sleeve it ended up very wavy.

10,000 ways to skin a cat yields 10,000 skinned cats.

Michael,
When completing the finish on a rod, I use a heat gun in one hand and a brush in the other hand, and use my foot to start, stop and control the speed of the rod.

I generally keep the heat gun a foot or more away from the rod and just sweep it by the wrap in question. Easy to see when the finish thins as needed and flows as desired.

Warning, DO NOT hold the gun too close or too long. If you start getting smoke from your finish - you are getting way too much heat on the finish. The amount of heat, should just barely raise the temperature of the finish above room temperature.

Good luck

To much heat Michael use just enough heat to make it a bit more workable and do so while the rod is turning.

Glenn McMurrian