I'm using a drill press to turn handles. I found that when I glued up handles of different materials, that just holding sandpaper to shape them doesn't work because the different materials erode differently, leaving high and low spots. Bob Meiser suggest using a sanding block. That works better, and for the transitions I wrap the paper around a beer bottle to get some of the concave curves. Yet, I'm still having this problem.

Any tips?

Using a cutting tool, like you would do if you were turning wood on a lathe, is the best way to keep everything concentric and even. It is possible to rig a tool rest of sorts for a vertical lathe (drill press). From there you continue to use the sanding block for final smoothing. It's hard to work with different density materials all on the same grip so don't feel that you're alone with this problem.

The guys at Custom Fly Grips, LLC did a seminar at last year's Expo and used a rotary sanding tool to shape such a grip. This may be the very best way to keep all the rings at the same height, particularly when creating various shapes. It's bit messy - lots of cork dust flying, but highly effective. RodMaker had an article on the process last year.

................

Whether you use sandpaper strips held in hand or a rotary tool, it is important the sandpaper or rotary tool not be held 90 degrees to the grip.

Check out this video: [www.youtube.com]

Jon,
In addition, you can use a semi orbital sander along with your lathe or drill press. The backing pad on the semi orbital sander keeps the work level and by adjusting the grit of the sand paper allows you do work quickly.

For narrow areas you can also use an oscillating trim sander. This allows you to get into narrow spots for detail work, while keeping the backing to insure a level grip.

[www.homedepot.com]


[www.fleetfarm.com]

The important thing with any of these toools is the integrated backing plate behind the sand paper to ensure that you have a uniform surface with different density materials.

Good luck

Jon,
I shape with a medium file then sand the more dense cork (burl, rubberized) down to the finish first then bring the softer cork (natural) down to level of the dense cork. Light sand all of it to finish off with 340 or 400 grit. You may have to sand the more dense cork slightly more with the finer last grit with an emphasis on keeping everything level. I hope this helps. I would destroy my grips with that rotary tool. Make sure you turn at high RPM and don't let the sand paper get too hot sitting in one place, keep it moving.

The file. That is a great tip. Is it flat or convex?

Lance,
Do yourself a favor. Pick up a semi oscillating sander and use it for some of your shaping, as well as routine wood work.

If you haven't used a semi oscillating sander before - you will have an eye opening experience.

Easy to remove a tiny bit of material, or a huge amount - depending on sand paper grit and operator induced pressure on the work piece.

Good luck