I have a serious bleed through problem using madeira thread, on a black eglass blank, ruined the butt wrap............

sorry didn't complete the message.....anyhow this madeira thread was a sea foam color, slightly metallic. I had never used this stuff before, and did apply CP to make sure it wouldn't fade or darken. But it made a black bleeding thru marks in random areas on the wrap. It is very noticeable, and will require a re-wrap or completely new effort all the way around. Makes me sick, and ruined a nice diamond wrap in the process. My question is, has anyone else ever had this problem, and if so how do you prevent it from happening in the first place. Flex coat finish is fresh, and mixture was good .........I can not figure how this occurred.

Is it polyneon Madeira thread or some other Madeira thread? I used a Madeira that was some other name and it did just what you experienced. Polyneon is the thread that is recommended for wrapping rods, and many have used it successfully.

How to prevent it. Do a test wrap before committing many hours to a project to make sure everything is as it's supposed to be.
I use two coats of CP to be sure, but most find that unnecessary.
Make sure your wraps are very tightly packed and burnished to eliminate any gaps that could make a wrap look like it's changed color when in fact it could be blank showing through.

IT happened becasue you didn't test it on a scrap wrap. WHen you try new products, you neeed to test to learn them, you shouldn't be l earning on rods that count. TOday you learned the properties of Supertwist and now understand why I dont' recommend it



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/17/2017 10:28PM by Billy Vivona.

Light colored threads on dark blanks are prone to problems! Even with CP the dark blank will influence the results. If using light colored threads, it can be overcome by painting the blank white where the wraps will be before applying the thread.

As Michael said, good packing and burnishing are also critical.

....It is Polyneon thread, and I packed the thread very tight, as it is an underwrap. Burnished it as well. I t doesn't appear to be thread separation , but is definitely "bleeding" irregularly in several spots. I guess I could have tested it before hand, but I think the best advice given here, would be to paint the blank white, where this type of light colored thread is going to be used, especially over a black or dark colored blank. . Thanks for the responses.

Ted,
You could also do an underwrap in white or sliver.

Good luck

If you have blotching where the light thread passes over a darker color, let us know how that white underwrap or painting the blank worked for you. If it's Polyneon, you either didnt' pack it tight enough, or you didn't CP it properly. Not seeing pics is impossible to tell how well it's packed, I know that peopel think they are packign the thread enough, but until they've seen how tight theyneed to be packed they dont' know.
I just noticed you said it was a long underwrap.... Doing a long underwrap with any type of thread often results in teh blotching of colors you are experiencing. Even NCP thread can blotch on you. TEHre are a lot of reasons why it happens, but it's almost always because teh thread isnt' packed tight as you think. CHange in tension while you are laying it down, from the tension device, how it's spooled, from changing speed on teh wrapper, or hand wrapping - all contribute.

Believe me, it was packed tightly, using a special tool to pack each pass. The tension was tight on the thread sledding device, and I burnished this well, mindful that it was an underwrap. In addition I have NEVER had problems using NCP as an underwarp, ...ever. After further review, I believe there may be something inherently wrong with this particular spool that I have. It might have been that the CP somehow didn't cover this as well as it should have, but it was applied liberally and appeared to coat the thread wrap evenly, which is always evident at the time of application, before it dries. I will test this on another blank , using a white undercoating , marking ink, and see if it happens again, but in the end I think it was simply a weird reaction to the finish, which was high build flex coat. Good news was the client came by and looked at it, and didn't even notice the blemish until I pointed it out. It will be replaced just the same, and instead of stripping the entire blank I'll give it to my wife.....who does not give a damn what it looks like, and it will function perfectly as a fishing rod, which is the ultimate objective, as far as I'm concerned.

If the thread tension is too tight - the thread will not necessarily pack as well as you might think. As you apply more tension, the thread stretches, becomes finer in diameter and resists burnishing well. Not saying that this is/was your issue, but a "fuller" thread is easier and better to pack and burnish.

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Ok, I was not aware that I could be packing this type of thread too tightly, and that may be the answer here after all. I am going to test this on a blank , that's been previously coated white, or as you suggest I'll try easing the tension when wrapping this stuff , which, if it works would be way easier than pre-coating the blank. At the same time I'm looking for a ncp or nylon thread that matches this Madiera color which is "sea foam"., and if successful, would be the easiest solution of all. I do appreciate the comments here, this is a valuable source of information. thank you

Not packing, but tensioning, in this case. It is possible to have too much thread tension.

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