I bought a couple of rod kits from Mudhole with pre-made cork handles. They have a 1/4" hole in the center. Any suggestions on how to ream or drill out the handles to fit the blank and keep it centered properly?



Thanks Rick



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/31/2017 08:33PM by Rick Provencher.

If you intend to build multiple rods, the set of four extreme reamers from Mudhole is a great way to go. If you know your blank's approximate butt size, you can single reamers for less $s.

If you've got spare / broken rod blanks on hand, you can make reamers by purchasing the sand paper roll from Mudhole and a can of contact cement from the hardware store.

Finally, if you are a glutton for punishment, it's possible to ream a grip using a rat tail file. It can be done, and it's the icon for a royal pain.

if your going to do this as a hobby you can just buy the 4 piece set of grit reamers no need to go all out the grit reamers will get the job done with a bit more effort on your part they are around $30 for a set of 4 or you can go top shelf and they car $70

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

Get a set of reamers or make your own. Chuck the appropriate sized reamer into a drill and begin reaming. Start with a reamer that fits partly into the hole. Make sure you let the grip slip in your hand every once in a while during the reaming process. This slippage is important and will allow everything to remain centered. Take your time and don't force anything. Check for fit on the blank often to make sure you don't over ream. This process goes very quickly so there is no need to rush or force things.
Norm

Rick,
Over the years, I have collected an assortment of circular files:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

When I use these files for reaming, I chuck them in either a 3/8th or a 1/2 inch drill, depending on the side of the file. I flip the drill direction switch, so that I am turning the file counter clockwise. There is a clockwise spiral on a circular file. If you turn the file in a clockwise direction, the file will want to screw itself into the ring or grip and split it open. But, by running the drill in reverse and forcing the drill into the hole in the cork, you achieve a very nice job of reaming.

Whenever doing this job, I put on a pair of knit or jersey cloth gloves. The reason that I use the jersey or knit gloves, is that when holding the rings or grip, the jersey or knit gloves will slip nicely on the cork rings or the cork grip. By letting the grip slip partial turns as your ream, you keep the hole in the grip nicely centered. If you hold the grip in your hand stationary, and ream it with a file you will generally get the hole off center.

I buy these knit gloves by the dozen and wear them all of the time when I am in the woodworking and sanding shop. Protects the hands and works well when working with cork. When the gloves get dirty, I just toss the gloves and put on a fresh pair.

[www.fleetfarm.com]

Or jersey gloves:

[www.fleetfarm.com]

For this handle and grip work be sure to get gloves with NO grip dots, or No grip rubber fingers for grip. You do NOT want the gloves to grip well. You want the gloves to protect your hands from heat and burning as you let the grips slip on the cotton gloves as you ream and handle the grips.

Good luck

Rick

When you are reaming from 1/4", it can be a challenge to keep it on center. We make and sell pilot bits that will do the job. Our arbor pilot bits have a 1/4" pilot on them and would do the job. Then you can ream out the small amount to match the taper of the blank.

Here is a video of our arbor pilot bits and reverse pilot bits:

[flexcoat.com]

[flexcoat.com]

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

I made a set of reverse pilot bits that have worked well. You can buy them from Flexcoat, buy a copy of Rod Builder mag where they tell you how to make them >>>or just wing it like me.<<<

Just a little thought and some time on the belt sander and you can make your own. I used Bosch "Daredevil Extended Length Spade Bits" they're a twisted spade bit which made sanding\grinding a little odd but the twist actually helped with the angle of the grind on the face.

Travis

<<<EDIT>>>
I did buy the magazine they told you how to do it... [www.rodmakermagazine.com] But since my bits were twist I had to improvise a bit



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/31/2017 04:47PM by Travis W Thompson.

The Flex Coat bits are terrific!

I also use the pilot bits to get my grips to the closest bore diameter to start. Worthwhile tools to invest in!

Rog

Awesome tips and advise. I ordered some grit to make some reamers out of hardwood dowels I have. I like the reverse bits for the grips and also the pilot bits for the seats. Why could you not just use a longer pilot bit to also drill out the grips? I have a couple drill bit extensions that could make the pilot bit go through the grip. Then I could use the pilot bit for both.

And thanks for the link I ordered the tool cd also :)

Thanks Rick



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/31/2017 08:34PM by Rick Provencher.

The grit reamers use paste (gel) epoxy for gluing the grit in place. The problem with this is that fictional heat generated while power reaming will break down the epoxy and the grit will come off sooner or later. A better option is to use reamer abrasive tape spirally glued to a tapered rod blank piece using contact cement. Contact cement is less prone to breaking down due to heat when compared to epoxy. The reason for a tapered blank vs a straight dowel is that it is much easier to keep the reamer centered since the taper allows for the reamer to follow the center hole much better. This is similar to the flex coat pilot and reverse pilot dill bits staying centered in the grip or abor hole. Solid glass rod blanks work very well for making reamers, for hollow blanks the thicker the wall the better.
[www.mudhole.com]
Norm

I have a few rolls of sanding tape so I will try it also. I think if you control the speed you should be able to control the heat. I was also thinking that spiral wrapped sanding tape can leave gaps where it would make it easier for the dust to be removed so I figured to try the grit with a spiral of epoxy.

I have made a couple little reamers with broken rod pieces but the tend to break apart easily, probably from like you said, thin walled. I am hoping the hard wood dowels will hold up better and be able to be chucked.

The problem with using dowels, is that they are not tapered! Using too large of a dowel will result in a gap at the upper end of the grip.

One of the issues with adhering grit to a piece of blank, is that some of the grit may come off inside the cork and not come out, then when sliding the grip onto the blank it can result in scratches on the blank. I speak from experience! Ruined an expensive fly rod blank. I now use the sand paper strips spiraled on a blank, or better yet the dream Reamers.

I will taper the dowel on the lathe and attach an end for chucking.

Good point on the grit.

What about any ideas for using the pilot bit with a bit extender for drilling out the handle also?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/01/2017 07:58AM by Rick Provencher.

An extended pilot bit would work ok as long as your starting hole is 1/4" and you are very careful. With the short pilot it is easier to to get off center.The reverse pilot is nice because you can shim the stem of the bit to fit any size starting hole and the long stem keeps the bit centered.
Norm

the best reamers i ever used i made from an old used set of rat tail files that i had sprinkled grit on.

Build your own reamers. Here is how we do it:

[flexcoat.com]

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

You have all given some great ideas :). I have a couple 3/4"x 4' hardwood dowels and a couple of old broken rods to try. I ordered grit and I also have a roll of the 1/2" wide adhesive sandpaper to try.

I ordered the cd from Rodmaker with how to make a reverse bit. I have an older spade bit I want to experiment with while I am awaiting the cd. I would assume I just cut a bevel on the backside of the spade with my grinder? Is this really all there is to it?

I may also try to make a pilot bit with a little longer "pilot" in front.

Thanks rick

Get Bit has a good deal on the dream reamer set. If you are planning on making more rods, buy it. In the long run it will save you money, time and heartbreak. They are a good investment, well worth the money, and will last for a long time. [www.getbitoutdoors.com]
Norm

Rick,
Yes, just make a cutting edge on the underside of the spade tip so that you can drill from the back of the bit-rather than the front of the bit.

Buy a spade bit for $2, and about 5 minutes on each bit on the grinder and you will be set.

Good luck