hi all, i have heard that some rodbuilders use gorilla glue to attach their reel seats..if so, will boiling water break the bond at some later date to remove the seat..are their other glues for reel seats..what do bamboo builders use..thanks

I use the paste epoxy marketed for rod building on all rods, including bamboo. Epoxy adhesives formulated for rod building, such as ProPaste, Rod Bond, etc., are strong, easy to use, and not expensive.

A variety of adhesives would probably work, but the Gorilla poly stuff would be on the bottom of my list because it expands as it cures and I really do not want to fight the adhesive oozing out into places adhesive ought not be.

Some adhesives and glues do lose their bond with heat, usually around 220 degrees.

any one of the rod building epoxies work just fine.
as for using gorilla glue not on a seat as it is water activated and works well for foam grips other it could make a mess that is hard to clean up.
if the seat is metal you could use a heat gun or hair dryer to remove an epoxied seat not so much on plastic

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

I'm guessing that your aim is to be able to remove the seat at a later date if the need should arise. That's not going to be an easy thing to do with any good adhesive and assembly technique - which are intended to give you a permanent bond. If a rod should break and you want to remove the seat, this is possible by cutting and boring the seat/insert out.

...............

thanks Don and Matthew..does any remember the old Herters rod building kits over 50 years ago. no e-poxy. guide wraps were painted with laquer then varnished..i don,t remember what glue was used on the cork rings or the reel seat..does anyone remember..thanks.

hi Tom..yes, i don,t want permanent bonds..i want bonds that are easy to break down and clean up and parts to be reusable..i may be asking for too much..not the first time. lol.

Urea and phenol formaldehyde glues were the glues most used when animal hide glues fell out of favor. If you don't want permanence build everything to an interference fit and see if it will hold up.
Been many years, but if I remember right my mentor told me these glues and the work had to be at the correct temperatures to give the best bond, he never used them again after epoxy came out.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/04/2017 09:26PM by Spencer Phipps.

ben belote Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> hi Tom..yes, i don,t want permanent bonds..i want
> bonds that are easy to break down and clean up and
> parts to be reusable..i may be asking for too
> much..not the first time. lol.


The easier those bonds are to "break down" the more likely that you'll have a rod fail on you in use. Since you asked, many rods have been built with hot-melt type adhesives over the years. They were indeed easy to "break down" and reuse parts. They were also the reason that most builders moved to epoxy.

............

Most epoxies will break down when heat is applied, fast cure epoxies more so than slow cure epoxies. Many rod builders will use 5 min epoxy for installing tip tops because it will easily break down when heated so the tip tops can be replaced. If you want a reel seat that can be removed relatively easy at a later date, try using 5 min epoxy, with masking tape arbors. I do not use 5 min epoxy but it might work for what you want. Could also use hot melt tip top cement. Many years ago it was used by some for installing both metal reel seats and metal ferrules, in fact it used to be called ferrule cement. Experiment with an old reel seat and a piece of blank to see if it works for you.
Norm

ok! everybody thanks for the many ideas..

ben belote Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> thanks Don and Matthew..does any remember the old
> Herters rod building kits over 50 years ago. no
> e-poxy. guide wraps were painted with laquer then
> varnished..i don,t remember what glue was used on
> the cork rings or the reel seat..does anyone
> remember..thanks.
Today's History lesson on rod building back from the late 50's early 60's

Yes I do it was either the gudebrod rod cement small bottle with a red and black label and was like snot as my mentor back then called it lol or it was wood glue for the cork and either the rod cement or contact cement like pilobond and because those weren't all that good there was a lot of failures resulting loose reel seats .
as for the wraps they used lacquer based fingernail polish in colors and then coated them with marine spar varnish 3-5 coats to get the high gloss.
then there were the purists fly fishermen that had to have bamboo rods they were a whole different critter to build the cork was glued with wood glue and seat and ferrules were attached with refined rosin tar pitch blend that was the first hot glue peruse.
I am dating my self with this history lol

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/05/2017 02:04PM by Matthew Paul.

great! thanks Matthew..good stuff..when you say wood glue you mean nitro-celluose i assume? thanks again.

nope..i just checked. wood glue is usually poly-vinyl acetate, like in elmers glue.

For reel seats, I would use nothing but epoxy, and never the weak 5 minute type. Reel seats can never be fastened too solidly, IMO, just like you can never be too rich or too skinny.

thanks philip..i,m going to stay with e-poxy but use much shorter urethane arbors that should be easier to cut through with a sharpened brass tube..the only i have to figure is how short i can go with arbors..i,m going to start with 1/2" arbors at each end of the dps seat..that should get lots of laughs.lol.

I have removed several reel seats from broken rods with polyurethane foam reel seat arbors by using cork borers. Cork borers are simply sharpened metal tubes that come in a variety of sizes; very handy tools to have. Length of the arbor should not be an issue.
Norm

hi norman..yes, i have used sharpened brass tubes in the past but the would bind up quickly..that,s when the different glue idea came up..now i,m thinking of shorter arbors which should be easier to cut through..i did not know about cork borers..would someone like lowes have them..thanks for the idea Norman.

I have several complete sets or cork borers that I have had for about 40 years. They are usually sold by science supply stores, but not by hardware stores. If you google the term cork borers you will a number of sources some more expensive then others. My cork borers range in sizes from 3 mm to 25 mm, and just about every bore size in between (about 1/8" to 1"). You can get small bore sets, intermediate bore sets and large bore sets, can also get complete sets. Hope this helps.
[en.m.wikipedia.org]
[www.amazon.com]
Norm

hi Norman..i,m going to give them a try..thank you.