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Best Reel Seat Build
Posted by: Tommy Bee (79.79.172.---)
Date: July 31, 2017 05:38PM

I am loathe to use the term ''epoxy''

Because I am not familiar with it

Is araldite the best thing to fix a reel seat on, or not?

Or what is?

Ideally something that may be rebuilt later fairly easily??

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Re: Best Reel Seat Build
Posted by: Norman Miller (---.lightspeed.jcsnms.sbcglobal.net)
Date: July 31, 2017 06:46PM

I loathe the term araldite because I am not familiar with it. Not the best way to make friends and influence people. It comes across as arrogant.
To answer your question, any structural 2 part epoxy (araldite) will work fine. I prefer the slow cure paste type of epoxies like RodBond.
PS - Most epoxies will break down when heat is applied, fast cure more so then slow cure. By heating the reel seat with a heat gun or boiling in water will allow the seat to be removed.

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Re: Best Reel Seat Build
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (Moderator)
Date: July 31, 2017 07:43PM

I agree with Normam although I tend to use the term "gel" epoxy for products such as RodBond (Flex Coat has a new similar product as well). "Paste" is often used to refer to the very heavy bodied gap filling epoxies such as PC7, etc. Generally these are not optimum for mounting seats and grips.


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Re: Best Reel Seat Build
Posted by: Tommy Bee (79.79.172.---)
Date: August 01, 2017 06:42AM

Norm there is a subtle difference in saying ''loathe to use'' (the term)

as opposed to ''loathe the term''

I think I rubbed you up the wrong way somehow

I simply brought you up, (politely I might add) that you MAY be a builder who has been using your carefully spined rods as a way of getting one over on the big brands mass produced rods built without careful spine-ing

The subject was of course, and is, open to debate

I simply gave my opinion that I feel after all that it doesn't matter

It also matters not that I am new to rod building and you are not

30 years of fishing with them does qualify me to comment on rods

maybe we should accept each others opinions more in such a way as that we both care and have strong opinions

Arrogant I am not, though. Simply outspoken. Again two enormously different things

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/01/2017 06:52AM by Tommy Bee.

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Re: Best Reel Seat Build
Posted by: Jason Reddick (---.uncg.edu)
Date: August 01, 2017 09:48AM

I've seen some splitting hairs on here about what to call this stuff. The paste and the rod finish are all "epoxies" in terms of chemistry. Araldite is a trademark name for different adhesives, some are epoxies but the manufacturer apparently has other types of adhesives that are not epoxies. The "epoxy" name comes from "epoxide" which is a reactive portion of the chemical making up the "resin" in one of the bottles. The "hardeners" contain another type of reactive group, often an "amine," which reacts with the epoxide group, permanently connecting the two chemicals. The structures of the two are built in such a way that several chemical structures become connected together in multiple spots, creating a network, a polymer. The polymer is the hard stuff that creates the bond. There are differences between the different epoxies ( manufacturer's different formulations, but also types of epoxy adhesives - "paste" vs. "finish"), and they pretty much are different because of what is connected to the epoxide group and the amine groups. But they are all epoxies because of the epoxide group and the polymerization chemistry. For example ProKote and Propaste are both epoxies made specifically for rod building, but have different characteristics based on the different structures of the two chemicals. I thought I found a patent description a while ago, but can't find it at the moment.

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Re: Best Reel Seat Build
Posted by: roger wilson (---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: August 01, 2017 10:06AM

I have used everything from 2 minute to two hour cure epoxy to glue on reel seats and grips. All of the different cements work and work well. But, be well aware of the curing characteristics of the adhesive that you are using - before you start gluing up your new project.

If you use an adhesive for a new project and you are not aware of how the adhesive cures and its overall handling characteristics, you can ruin a great build in a heart beat.

But, as long as you understand the character and the way that the adhesive works you can plan your work to optimize the characteristics of the adhesive andy our work piece.

If you are doing a new project and are not familiar with the curing characteristics of the adhesive, glue up some test pieces - before you ever use the adhesive on your "new" project.

Good luck

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Re: Best Reel Seat Build
Posted by: ben belote (---.zoominternet.net)
Date: August 01, 2017 03:25PM

hi roger.. have you ever used a cement like Duco to attach a dps style seat..would it not make seat removal much easier..a lot less heat would be needed. no?

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Re: Best Reel Seat Build
Posted by: roger wilson (---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: August 01, 2017 05:24PM

Over the years, I have done many many different thing in both my job as well as hobbies. I have used Duco cement for some applications.

However, I am sure that Duco cement is NOT a good cement for attaching a reel seat.

By the way, when I build a rod, I assume that it is going to be a one time build with nothing ever being replaced.

That is the case for about 90% of rods that have ever been built. i.e. a rod is built in a factory, cottage industry environment, a home builder or other areas are typically built once and never ever touched again.

Sure, there are folks on this forum who have said that they have rebuilt some of their own rods more than once and some many times. But, this is an aberration from the millions of rods that are purchased every year. Most folks buy a rod and use it for a little or a long time. If it happens to break - somewhere along the line - the bulk of those broken rods are either returned for replacement by the manufacturer or are simply dumped in the trash.

So, I only use one of the various cure rates of epoxy glue to attach a reel seat to a rod blank. If I ever need to remove the reel seat, I do a slice with a dremel tool cut off wheel on each side of the reel seat. Then I insert a wide screwdriver into the newly cut slit and turn the screwdriver sidewise which splits the reel seat and it falls off of the rod. I then clean and remove the hardened glue remaining on the blank and install the new or different reel seat and often a grip as well.

Good luck

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Re: Best Reel Seat Build
Posted by: ben belote (---.zoominternet.net)
Date: August 01, 2017 06:07PM

hi roger. thanks for quick reply..that,s my problem, i,m forever tinkering..i can,t leave well enough alone..my blanks have just about all been torn down and rebuilt..so if there is any way to make that process easier i wiill try it..i had a thought about a Herters kit rod i built many years ago and i think i used a duco type cement to attach the fly reel seat..i
was wondering if people still do this and someone might share their experience with it.. Thanks.

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