New to this method on casting rods. Used to just following the recommended spacing by rod length. Building a 7 foot Rainshadow RX6 SP842 casting rod. I have the
stripper guide (size 10) to a reduction guide (size 6) to the running guides (size 5.5) to a matching tip. I made a jig to support the rod at 45 degrees. I placed my stripper at 22.5
inches from the face of a baitcasting reel and the first running guide 3.5 from the tip. Mounted the reel and put enough weight on the end of the line to get and
hold 45 degrees from the tip to floor. Started with 8 running guides between the reduction guide and the first running guide (total 11 guides). No matter how I
I adjusted the runners, the line touched the blank. Added more guides for a total of 14 (12 runners). I said wow, what am I doing wrong. I know that the static load is used
to place the most guides in the power curve of the rod, but while doing so the line should not touch either, correct?

Did you read the article in the library? Try loading the rod with a line tied only to the tip top, this gives you the natural bend of the blank. Then you add guides as needed to protect the blank, with a line running from the reel with only enough weight to tension the line straight, place your guides on the line and run them down the blank to each position as needed. Touching the blank has nothing to do with it as long as you don't go overboard and have the line running under the blank. Why would the blank need less guides in a spinning configuration if blank protection is the reason we install guides? I'd use the article in the library to set your guides.
I don't place my next guide from the tip at a distance for no reason, and I don't know why 3.5 inches seems to be the norm lately, it was 4.5 to 5 inches not to long ago and the blank hasn't changed any and have no history of blowing up on people. Anyway back to the build, why would you use blank deflection as a basis for guide displacement for every guide other than the first from the tip top and the first from the reel? Isn't a blank a blank and a bend a bend? Some high end Sage rods have the first guide from the tip at 6 inches and have finer tips than your blank. Let the blank tell you where it needs a guide.

I have to agree with Spencer
as for placing the first/last runner from the tip top at 3.5 inches is just plain silly as he said not to long ago it was any where from 4-6 inches. putting 14 running guides on a rod of that length isn't even close you realize that you would be cramming them in to a length of 61 1/2 inches + a guide about every 4 3/16 inch.
where the problems are coming from using this concept is partly because they are low frames and micro rings all in the name of weight reduction BUT the weight saved is minimal and you really can't feel it as it changes the balance point to the back lower 1/3 of the rod .
that is why the spiral wrap is becoming the best option for bait casting rods with the use of the smaller concept guide set.
If it were up to me I would do a spiral wrap and I can guarantee that you will have a great preforming rod and will cast like a hot knife through butter and it would require about 9- 10 guides plus tip top. unless you want it to be a top guided rod

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

Thanks, Matthew and Spencer. I am definitely a newbee to this concept. Thanks. Spencer, would you use the 45 degree jig on weighting and bending the top section of the rod?
Matthew, I would like to learn more about doing a spiral wrap on a build. Where can I find setting (I guess angles) and spacing of guides?

John, use the search function on this site. As stated above, you do not weight the line thru the guides more then enough to see there path after you weight just the tip top to get the flex you are looking for.

Read the article on static placement in the "library".

here is a start watch it and some of the others on U tube [youtu.be] and then you can E mail me and I will send you my phone if you want to call. your first one might be a bit of a learning curve but once you get it under your belt you will do it as often as you can for casting rods, trolling rods too
as for the 45 degree bend on that rod no your never gong to get a fish that will do that unless he is right below your boat or a real monster.
the 45 thing is mainly for the saltwater rods for big fish Tuna, marlin, shark etc. as they often have a fight right at the boat side and the rod nearly doubles over. the only fish that I ever got that did that to me was a musky at 50 inches and 31.4 pounds and I had the rod for it.

The best day to be alive is always tomorrow !!
Think out side the box when all else fails !!!
Wi.

John,
On my first rods I had no jig to put the rod in, I just closed the rear grip in a drawer, than supplied the remaining necessary bend through the placement of the load on the floor. I start my process with about a third of my end load in the rod and progress in the bend as the rod load gets larger, I do this because as the load increases all rod tips straighten and starts pointing at the fish, which to me makes the guide placement in the tip not as important as the rest of the rod.
I've not done it, but I imagine you could also use a bookcase, stacking books on the rod till it's tight and won't move, than put in your bend. I've CC'd rods that way and it worked well.
There is more than one way to do things, the simple process of building the rod is the important part, how you get there has many avenues.

The blank tip should be 90-degrees to the butt. Can't tell from your post but you might be over-bending the blank. With small runners you won't be able to get the line off the blank completely but a "rub" is better than having the line drop below the blank under load.